Swede powder?

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
Gents I’m looking for some guidelines if possible please. I’ll do the powder work up for safety but is there a rough ball park for what grain of powder in roughly aiming to use with the Swede? I don’t have a chrono but I’m going to load up something around the 140 grain mark,(143 grain eld x probably).

I’m using n160. I’ve heard about 49 grains is about right for a 120 grain bullet. Is it about similar for the heavier bullets as well?

Just looking for a guideline and I appreciate it’s a work up to job. But want something that will give me a sensible balance of speed/ability to kill/comfort to shoot.

Cheers!
 

Davee

Well-Known Member
Please clarify the Swede, is it a modern rifle -ie SE or SKAN- or an older ex military one? If SKAN/SE then 49grns is well over the top for 143ELD-X, 45 is closer to the mark, 2567 fps at 46855 psi. For the 120's 48.5 is closer to the mark at 2878fps and 46228psi. Both for a SKAN 24" barrel and too high for the ex military types. Start lower and work up.
 

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
Please clarify the Swede, is it a modern rifle -ie SE or SKAN- or an older ex military one? If SKAN/SE then 49grns is well over the top for 143ELD-X, 45 is closer to the mark, 2567 fps at 46855 psi. For the 120's 48.5 is closer to the mark at 2878fps and 46228psi. Both for a SKAN 24" barrel and too high for the ex military types. Start lower and work up.

Thanks for the reply! It’s a standard sako 75 6.5x55? Forgot about the really old rifles knocking about. Apologies!
 
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wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
Just a quick bump to the more experienced swede shooters on here than myself. The hornady text suggest 43grains of N160 as a max load for the 143 eld-x,(giving about 2500 FPS).

Does this sound about right and I should be aiming for somewhere between 39.1 and 43 grains or is that fairly conservative?

39.1 only gives you around 2300 fps


Thanks!
 

25 Sharps

Well-Known Member
Best thing to do is look at viht’s data, 49 gr under a 140 would be way over pressure, you shouldn’t take data for a light bullet and use it under a heavier bullet ever.

From memory I use 42.5 or 43.5 under a 140 gr SGK, for around 2600 FPS. If you want to a lot faster you need to use a different, probably high energy, powder. As is often the case RS60 will give good velocity gains but at the possibility of higher barrel damage.

As a side note, 140 at 2600 kills well
 

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
Best thing to do is look at viht’s data, 49 gr under a 140 would be way over pressure, you shouldn’t take data for a light bullet and use it under a heavier bullet ever.

From memory I use 42.5 or 43.5 under a 140 gr SGK, for around 2600 FPS. If you want to a lot faster you need to use a different, probably high energy, powder. As is often the case RS60 will give good velocity gains but at the possibility of higher barrel damage.

As a side note, 140 at 2600 kills well
Brilliant, thanks! Sounds like somewhere in the 42-43.5 is the final ball park. The lower end of the viht data always seems to give really sooty cases. Will work up and see
Have a search on SD - @Edinburgh Rifles posted the data for their factory loads abd they use Viht and RS powders. Viht website also worth reviewing.

Cheers! Will have a look. I always thought the factory stuff was fairly anaemic from most reports?
 

Heym SR20

Well-Known Member
Brilliant, thanks! Sounds like somewhere in the 42-43.5 is the final ball park. The lower end of the viht data always seems to give really sooty cases. Will work up and see


Cheers! Will have a look. I always thought the factory stuff was fairly anaemic from most reports?

Not all factory loads in 6.5x55 and 7x57 etc are anaemic - but some certainly are, but the Fox 123gn ammo data shows 870 m/s at the muzzle - 6,5x55SE (8,0 g/123 gr) - Fox Bullets - Lead-free bullets & ammunition

And the Data for modern rifles direct from Vihtavouri

 

ejg

Well-Known Member
US Blue Box Federal also claim 2650fps with their 140gr SP load. Recon one needs to be close to CIP pressure for that with say a 22" barrel.
Those who have very old rifles without CIP proof marks will need to be careful what they load. Those with CIP proof marks use what is available on the shelf.
As far as I know Skan does not have a separate CIP proofing, same pressure as 6.5x55 CIP or?
edi
 

Davee

Well-Known Member
Originally a joint development between the Swedish and Norwegian militaries, to ensure inter-changeability of ammunition, however rumour has it that the Swedes worked with the minimums and the Norwegians with the maximums, so some Norwegian ammo would not chamber in the Swedish rifles. The Swedish military ammo was loaded to 46412psi with 47862 as abf. Post WWII CIP max was set at 51000max. The SKAN was a redrawn specification to get around this problem (particularly for competition use) and the max pressure was raised to 55110 SAAMI. So technically 6.5x55Swedish is the original spec, 6.5x55SE is the later spec and 6.5x55SKAN the latest, however most people accept that 6.5x55SE/SKAN is the same.
Correct ejg, to get that velocity from a 22" barrel you would be pushing 54000 psi!
 

Foxyboy43

Well-Known Member
Gents I’m looking for some guidelines if possible please. I’ll do the powder work up for safety but is there a rough ball park for what grain of powder in roughly aiming to use with the Swede? I don’t have a chrono but I’m going to load up something around the 140 grain mark,(143 grain eld x probably).

I’m using n160. I’ve heard about 49 grains is about right for a 120 grain bullet. Is it about similar for the heavier bullets as well?

Just looking for a guideline and I appreciate it’s a work up to job. But want something that will give me a sensible balance of speed/ability to kill/comfort to shoot.

Cheers!
You need to be very careful with your approach my friend - “ball park” approach is potentially going to kill or maim you.The golden rule if you cannot find your precise bullet weight is to go to the next heaviest bullet and use that data’s minimum as your starting point. With respect - your “49gns is about right” and the even remote inference that it is similar for heavier (140gns) bullets suggests that you really do need to start over again. Buy a good reloading book, study it, learn the basics especially in relation to powder charges against bullet weights and then start low and work up in small increments. You are at serious risk of making a small but entirely lethal hand grenade which could go 💥 just three inches from your nose! Be careful!
🦊🦊
 

25 Sharps

Well-Known Member
Posted this on the other swede thread, thought it may be useful here too


A few pointers for new reloaders.

1. Buy a decent reloading manual and read it twice.

2. In an ideal world you would have data for your exact powder/case/primer/bullet combination. In the real world there are millions of combinations so basic rules are;

a- if the bullet weight you have is not shown always go for the next weight up. NEVER USE DATA FOR A LIGHTER BULLET

b- when substituting bullets try and select one with a similar profile ans if possible length. A boat tail plastic tipped bullet will be longer than a soft point flat base, if seated to the same depth the longer bullet will increase pressure.

c- be aware lead free bullets can be considerably longer again.

3. There’s lots of data, it’s best to look through 3/4 sources and decide which one you want to use, the closest to your components may be the best. Hodgdon has a good website as does Viht for their own powders, and nosler with various powders but their bullets, Sierra has a very good app.

5. Which ever data you choose, start low and work up in suitable (circa 5-10% increments) learn how to read pressure signs (read this article Understanding Pressure :: Primal Rights, Inc).

6. If you change any one of the components for any reason work up again!


As an aside for swede loaders, it is a peculiar case for obturation for some reason, so if you are getting sooty cases it is likely the pressure is too low and the case is not sealing the chamber correctly.
 

Dorsettaff

Well-Known Member
Wildfowler...

I'm using RS60 with a 140 grain SST.....43-43.5 is the sweet spot in an R8...Usual rules apply...work up from a safe level and check for pressure signs

Gives speeds of approx 2600 FPS
 

Foxyboy43

Well-Known Member
“if seated to the same depth the longer bullet will increase pressure”.
Just read this useful advice but in “b” should this not be “length” (COAL) rather than “depth”?
🦊🦊
 

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
You need to be very careful with your approach my friend - “ball park” approach is potentially going to kill or maim you.The golden rule if you cannot find your precise bullet weight is to go to the next heaviest bullet and use that data’s minimum as your starting point. With respect - your “49gns is about right” and the even remote inference that it is similar for heavier (140gns) bullets suggests that you really do need to start over again. Buy a good reloading book, study it, learn the basics especially in relation to powder charges against bullet weights and then start low and work up in small increments. You are at serious risk of making a small but entirely lethal hand grenade which could go 💥 just three inches from your nose! Be careful!
🦊🦊

Thanks guys appreciate the feedback!



foxyboy I apologies for any vagueness in the reply. I appreciate that larger bullets mean less case capacity. I’ve heard about 49 grain n160 is about right for the 120 grain prohunters which I tried previously and mirrored my findings. I was looking for a similar idea for the heavier bullets with a lower powder charge. A few people seem to suggest around 42-43.5 grains for the 143eldx is about right but I’ll work up from low end. I’ll probably just do a couple of shots in the lower powder ranges to save components.

It’s difficult with posts online because i will do the work up in stages properly but people reading this won’t know that and I appreciate the advised caution. Far better than someone having an accident. It’s just nice to know that if I get a decent group at powder charge A and a decent group at powder charge B, what camp most other folk are loading to so that I can decide which one is ‘better’.
 

wildfowler.250

Well-Known Member
Posted this on the other swede thread, thought it may be useful here too


A few pointers for new reloaders.

1. Buy a decent reloading manual and read it twice.

2. In an ideal world you would have data for your exact powder/case/primer/bullet combination. In the real world there are millions of combinations so basic rules are;

a- if the bullet weight you have is not shown always go for the next weight up. NEVER USE DATA FOR A LIGHTER BULLET

b- when substituting bullets try and select one with a similar profile ans if possible length. A boat tail plastic tipped bullet will be longer than a soft point flat base, if seated to the same depth the longer bullet will increase pressure.

c- be aware lead free bullets can be considerably longer again.

3. There’s lots of data, it’s best to look through 3/4 sources and decide which one you want to use, the closest to your components may be the best. Hodgdon has a good website as does Viht for their own powders, and nosler with various powders but their bullets, Sierra has a very good app.

5. Which ever data you choose, start low and work up in suitable (circa 5-10% increments) learn how to read pressure signs (read this article Understanding Pressure :: Primal Rights, Inc).

6. If you change any one of the components for any reason work up again!


As an aside for swede loaders, it is a peculiar case for obturation for some reason, so if you are getting sooty cases it is likely the pressure is too low and the case is not sealing the chamber correctly.

Thank you very much! Very helpful. Slowly does it.

Will let you know how I get on!
 

25 Sharps

Well-Known Member
“if seated to the same depth the longer bullet will increase pressure”.
Just read this useful advice but in “b” should this not be “length” (COAL) rather than “depth”?
🦊🦊
Yes I should have written COAL, a case of me knowing what I mean, you knowing what I mean but possibly not a new reloader (doh)
 
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