Sorry, but the best technique in the world will not overcome the problems introduced by a very stiff or unpredictable trigger.
I am a mediocre shot, but do fine with the factory setting on my two T3s (3lb or so break, groups 1inch at 100m). However, I recently had to use a friend's ancient BSA in .243, and the trigger was a beast. Had to really clench to get it to break, and shots were all over the place. I actually turned down the opportunity to shoot my first fallow buck because I didn't have the confidence that I could put the shot anywhere sensible at 100m.
Hmm well your friend can adjust the BSA's trigger you know

the amount of adjustment will vary depending upon which model it is but all BSA's chambered in .243 Winchester will have an adjustable trigger and none of them can be adjusted to a pressure of more than about 6lbs. It sounds like it needs cleaning and looking at.
A trigger with a rather heavy break point is totally different to a trigger that breaks and releases at differing points of travel/pressure.
i.e and unpredictable one.
I wonder how many of those rifle shooters who have problems with their trigger technique have never shot pistols? I suspect many of them have never shot pistols before as it's far more important when pistol shooting to have only he trigger finger move and for it to manage the trigger pull in a straight line back into the grip ........................................................... that is if one wishes to hit the target.
Judging all triggers by one that has been poorly adjusted and maintained cannot be the way to do it. For instance when I acquired the Rigby Mannlicher the trigger pull was horrible. It dragged and had lots of creep. I took the Rifle to Rigby's when they was located at the Elephant & Castle and they stripped, cleaned and serviced the rifle for me. Afterwards the trigger was crisp with a clean break. I never bothered measuring the weight of pull. Rigby's also provided a copy of their original ledger page for this rifle. Of course the trigger mechanism fitted to the Model 1892 Steyr is not adjustable and Rigby's stripped the whole rifle and cleaned everything. Back then this service cost me £90.
Whilst I will clean a trigger mechanism such as the BSA's I will not strip them down. Washing they out well usually clears any problems and then they can be adjusted correctly. The meerest drop of lubrication it used as oil or grease will attract dust and debris which clog the mechanism. Dry lubes are good for triggers. S&W used to sell an excellent dry trigger lube but I have not seen any for many years offered for sale.
Many years ago I did have Fultons of Bisley set up the trigger on a Lee Enfield rifle at the same time that they replaced the incorrect Beech furniture with the correct aged Walnut and bed the rifle. The trigger was set up as per the NRA service rifle competitions rules. They also replaced the trigger and sear on a sporting No1 Rifle I acquired as a previous owner had taken a grinder to them both. This work was required to make the rifle safe to use on the ranges there as it was noted that the trigger was to badly mutilated that it was possible to get a slam fire. To make it safe and correct it also required the replacement of the cocking piece which it seems had also suffered at the butchers hands. many here would not have managed the trigger pull on that rifle as it was the standard two stage trigger with a final release pressure of 5lbs. However it was smooth as silk with NO creep what so ever.
Passing up the offer of the shot on Buck was the correct decision IMHO. A live beast is not a target for practice. The fault however lays with the friend whom has not maintained the rifle
and not the rifle itself no matter what make it is.