Tip Of The Week

I'll have to sneak a listen to that if You tube or similar has it. I played a EMS VCS3 back in the 80's, a band I was working with borrowed it from Lene Lovich. I ended up building something similar as we had to return it. Those things can fetch 12 grand now.

It's on Spotify if you have an account.

If not but a family member is already signed up, then for a couple of quid they can upgrade to 'Spotify Premium for Family' and include the account holder and 5 others for access all areas, downloads, sharing etc. Or start an account from scratch.
 
My tip of the week .. Don't snatch your hand backwards 'away' from the knife edge you just slipped towards if the knife edge is facing away from you . Tip of my left index finger is being held on with sutures for now and is going to take months to heal properly (if it ever does). Luckily I'm right handed so it's not my trigger finger :)
 
It's on Spotify if you have an account.

If not but a family member is already signed up, then for a couple of quid they can upgrade to 'Spotify Premium for Family' and include the account holder and 5 others for access all areas, downloads, sharing etc. Or start an account from scratch.
It is indeed on YouTube. For my own tastes I'm happy I had a listen to it but not my cup of tea.
 
Powered Wilson trimmer

After being fed up with twiddling the cutter handle on my Wilson case trimmer when doing big batches of cases, I have added a sewing machine motor & fitted a pulley drive instead of the handle.
The sewing machine motor is perfect for this job & the foot pedal / speed control works well.
The belt & pulley is set to pull the cutter away from the case mouth by a couple of millimetres. The cut is made by simply pushing on the polished pulley end face with one finger.
Here's a link to a photo of it.

Ian

DSCN0870.JPG - Google Drive


Stumbling across Yorrics post a couple of weeks ago, I’ve had a go at converting my Wilson...motor and pulley from fleabay, taps n a drill from Chronos to thread the pulley, 2/3rds of an old chopping board and the base plate from a defunct Hostess plate warmer......and a can of green paint.

The motor was pretty expensive at over £40 but it’s quality is way over a lot of the dubious ones between £16 & £25.....many sellers, all in ‘Portsmouth’! ( Apparently all in ‘Dublin’ now!) . This one has plenty of power and will outlive me.

Cheers

Fizz




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This thread needs a bump so here's the best I can do after an early start this morning.

If like me you store your rifles with a rust inhibitor or conditioner in the bore, a small magnetic clip with clean patches clasped within the jaws and attached to the action will act as handy reminder of the need to remove before shooting.
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K
 
Hate your cardboard box of disposable gloves getting damp in the vehicle and falling apart?

Take a 1lt or larger Lock & Lock plastic container and cut out a section of the lid to give you a letter box opening. Tidy up aperture with file and production paper:
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Dymo tape label optional!

K
 
Hate your cardboard box of disposable gloves getting damp in the vehicle and falling apart?

Take a 1lt or larger Lock & Lock plastic container and cut out a section of the lid to give you a letter box opening. Tidy up aperture with file and production paper:
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View attachment 137763
Dymo tape label optional!

K
I'd say the Dymo tape label is essential: the box being empty it would remind you why you cut a hole in the lid: and full, the label would be invaluable if you forgot the name and/or purpose of the curiously-pliable waterproof hand-shaped items within.
 
Don't bin those 'tired' shoes. Had these since 1982 and haven't really looked after them so thought I'd have a go at rejuvenating them.

First step was to get all the wax and dirt off so I soaked then in warm water & washing liquid and scrubed them. Allowed to dry but not before inserting shoes trees to ensure correct shape. Once I'd given them a good rub with thinners I carefully dyed them, treated with a special neatsfoot oil based cordovan cream and polished. Six applications of the cream got them to the point of last picture.

Lastly I cut some leather laces with a strap cutter and made a matching belt:

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If I can do it anyone can.

K
 
After getting the Finnlight a wee bit muddy on the weekend, I was wondering what the best thing to clean the stock might have been. The trouble with the soft touch synthetic, a little bit of dust, not even mud, marks the stock and makes it look shabby. So I thought I'd try something after wiping it off with a wet rag and drying next to a radiator. It's something I've used for the chameau's and although it was bought for leather rather than rubber, it keeps them cleaner for longer and I'm sure they are protected and will therefore last longer.

The product is Renapur Leather Balsam. So I applied this to the stock thinly on a sponge, and the results look good, doesn't smell, well hardly, and I know that it repels water very well. I'll see how it performs but I'm pretty confident it'll do the job and from looking shabby, it now looks like a new rifle once more.

Also works well on the zip on zipped wellies
 

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The product is Renapur Leather Balsam. So I applied this to the stock thinly on a sponge, and the results look good, doesn't smell, well hardly, and I know that it repels water very well. I'll see how it performs but I'm pretty confident it'll do the job and from looking shabby, it now looks like a new rifle once more.
I may try it on the soft touch finish on the Carbon Wolf but before I do, anyone heard of any product for use on these?
 
If you are sizing down cases to 'wildcat' a case (eg. 7.62 NATO to .243Win) using a commercial case lube and find the case difficult to get out or it tears the rim right off.
Try using Castor Oil.
It is the best case lube I have ever used, apart from it's sticky residue if you forget to wipe it off well.
 
Just tried some O rings to reduce the noise from sling swivels. Seems to reduce it by around 50% but think it would improve with thicker, stronger O rings
 

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Just tried some O rings to reduce the noise from sling swivels. Seems to reduce it by around 50% but think it would improve with thicker, stronger O rings
Take the sling off each swivel. Push the O ring through the gap between stud and pull up either side of swivel. Re-thread sling through O ring and swivel. It won't last forever but simply replace when the friction gets too much for the O ring. It will however reduce noise by more 50%

K
 
Take the sling off each swivel. Push the O ring through the gap between stud and pull up either side of swivel. Re-thread sling through O ring and swivel. It won't last forever but simply replace when the friction gets too much for the O ring. It will however reduce noise by more 50%

K
If you get chance..... gis a picture :-| Tried to introduce an O ring in the gap between stud and swivel but because the gap is tight, it quickly sheared the O ring. I'll take another look.
 
Tried to introduce an O ring in the gap between stud and swivel but because the gap is tight, it quickly sheared the O ring.
OK. Ignore if that's the case and stick with what you have.

The noise and slackness within some swivel & stud sets is why I use the now discontinued low profile swivel from Uncle Mike's that allows a thick leather sling to make an iterfearence fit with the stud - there's nothing to rattle:
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K
 
WET WELLIE SYNDROME ! Don’t suffer wet feet put a piece of Yellow or red etc insulting tape on you hill/stalking stick an inch or two below
your wellie height.....where the stick go’s you go. With dry feet l might add :thumb:
That was the method a guide in Croatia used to decide who went where on one of the wettest trips I'd ever been on.
 
More work to the old RCBS press. This time to do away with the need for an elastic band to hold the aluminium primer catcher in place. Press drill & tapped to take a 6mm screw and the catchment pan drilled & counterbored to receive the domed screw head. The last bit is unnessary but I think it looks a more considred job for it:
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K
 
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