Wall fixings


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If I remember, the guidance states it needs to be fixed 'to the fabric of the building', so mounting it onto plasterboard probably won't pass muster as the chances are the fixings will just pull through :confused:


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If it’s just plasterboard with nothing solid behind then you wouldn’t be able to fix your cabinet to it, the police would t approve it, it needs to fix into masonry behind the plaster so some long expanding bolts would be suitable.


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It would also be bolted to the floor joist

I would have thought that wouldn't satisfy the police, they generally like it into the fabric of the building, i.e. a load bearing or external wall of a house. Bolts into to timber joists in the floor wouldn't be hard, comparatively, to work loose. If in doubt have this conversation with your FEO, save you making holes in the wrong places.....

Also, worth trying to position it into a corner that prevents a bar being used to open the door, if the cabinet is hinged on the right hand side, secure the cabinet into a left hand corner, just makes them more difficult to break into.


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I still think you'd struggle to get it accepted. Expanding bolts right into the brickwork would be best, and it shouldn't take too much extra effort


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I had this problem in my last house. In the end I cut a hole in the plasterboard behind the cabinet, large engough to get some battens (noggins/dwangs) in which I fixed to the existing studding. I also screwed a couple of cripple studs in.
With a piece of plaster board back on and a bit of filler I drilled a few more holes in the back of the cabinet and screwed it to the new studs. Like everyone says the Police wouldn't approve it just to the plasterboard but they were happy with it screwed to the additional woodwork.
When I moved out a bit more filler and paint and it was almost invisible.


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Talk to your firearms officer first.

If there is no exterior solid wall (always the first choice) one solution in a modern house is:
Find the location of the studs (vertical timbers) behind the plasterboard (mark them) and the orientation and location of floor joists (mark them).
Bond 1" marine ply to the plasterboard with your chosen 'no more nails' type adhesive. Then screw marine ply to the studs at regular intervals.
Bolt cabinet back through marine ply and into studs if/ where you can with your choice of mahoosive bolt headed screws. Where you cant, use good quality toggle bolts through ply. More mahoosive bolts down through cabinet base into joists.

Like I said first, talk to your firearms guy before doing the above. But lets face it, there are FAC holders in modern houses built of breezeblock and timber frame who manage to satisfy there FAC security conditions.


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A long Ø10mm coachscrew into a decent joist could/would present more of a challenge to a pry bar than an expanding bolt into a mortar joint. The fixing only has to be stronger than the pull-out/tear-strength of the sheet metal of the cabinet. A coach screw in timber would do that easily. Big plate washers always help.

The siting of the cabinet in a corner or "difficult to get a lever at" position and many fixings through two sides and the bottom (in as many directions and as close to the extremities of the cabinet as possible) will help make it secure.

I think you have to do better than plaster board fixings though.



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What are the best plasterboard wall fixings to use for gun cabinet ?

If you can get at the other side of the studwork, use coach bolts with the 'dome' head on the other side, ie nuts and plate washers inside the cabinet with the bolts going through the studs. This will probably mean drilling fresh holes in the cabinet. Cut out the plasterboard on the other side of the wall to let the bolt head in, and fill over it.
If they want it, they'll get it. A local chap had his cabinet stolen after the thieves knocked down the blockwork wall that it was fixed to. The victim was the son of a retired bobby!


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Thanks for replies , I think I will have to jig the cupboard around and drill some new holes in the side of the cabinet and then fix them to the block work wall


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regarding using wood 4x2 joists to affix a cabinet to, as opposed to brick/block work , take a brick/block, hit it together with a length of 4x2,, see what breaks first.

using the appropriate fixings [not a few cheap wood screws from B&Q] wood is far more secure, of course suitable raw bolts into solid concrete or rsj trumps all, but isn't always present.

most flo,s if their honest will admit thieves just use a battery 4 inch disc cutter and go through the side of the cabinet, which is why concealment is recommended.
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If you have an alternative area with a concrete floor to bolt to and then into timber studding, that might satisfy them.