What size lump hammer should I use?

Stalker1962

Well-Known Member
At Bisley last week with an Enfield No.4 Mk1* (1945) Long Branch rifle.
It was shooting a wee bit low.
One of other chaps said that I needed a lower foresight. I said no, what I have needed all my life is better hindsight....

Any hoo.

He said that he has some Enfield foresights and a few gizzmos that would get the job done. I thought it was just polite chat.
This afternoon a package arrived. It is the "gizzmos" and six Enfield foresights of varying heights.

Before I destroy this rifle and demonstrate (if further proof were needed) to the world and my wife, that I am not to be trusted with any aspect of DIY and dos and don'ts before I go out into the shed and get my lump hammer?
 

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On any rifle you adjust the foresight IN to the error. It is the opposite of what you do with the backsight. So raise the point of impact you'd make the backsight higher. That's logical really. But if you want to raise the point of impact by adjusting the foresight then you make the foresight lower. In other words two solutions. The one that sells you lots of gear, extra foresights and gadgets and gizmos. Or the other solution...a metal file and a steady hand.

The first replaces the current foresight with one of lower height. Then of course you've also now got to reset the windage on it. The second keeps the current foresight and leaves it in place and the windage as set and simply files a bit off the top. Go steady measure accurately and with consistency what you've taken off and the job is easiest done that way IMHO.

But the gear, extra foresights, and gadgets and gizmos way? Well it's a long time since I did these although I've done them on both the No1 aka the SMLE and the No4. The thing to bear in mind is that if you have the correct tool then the hammer isn't needed. But is the only tool is a hammer...see here below:

But that if you are going to use a hammer is you'll also need a flat ended punch (it is hope if possible something softer than steel). Brass perhaps or aluminium although a steel punch will work and that's what I almost always used but brass is better. You will also need to unscrew and remove the sight protector "ears" and a second pair of hands and most importantly (this is the difficult bit) something that supports the foresight block.

You are trying to move the sight blade out of the foresight block. So the blade needs to be drifted out but the foresight block needs to stay where it is. If you do not support the foresight block the risk is that what actually you are doing is bending the foresight block rather than actually drifting the blade out of the block. So in capital letters YOU MUST SUPPORT THE BLOCK. Which is why you need that second pair of hands to hold rifle on its side so that the foresight block is supported by a block of wood beneath it.

I did an article for Target Gun on the different blade heights and how they affect zero. But it was little more than what was in the British Army pamphlet for the No4 and the relevant parts of that can be found online.

But TO DO IT RIGHT you need decent factory specification ammunition and if possible a one hundred yard range but if not a range of (I think from memory) twenty-five yards as the Manual gives quite precise figures for the affect in range of each sight increment. If you have done it right and that ammunition really was (be it factory made or reloaded) factory specification then the test is that the rifle should now shoot to its sights at 200, 300, 400 yards.
 

Ignore all the written words just look the the tables. In crude terms on a No4 with Mark 7 ball of a 174 grain spitzer bullet at 2,450 fps muzzle velocity each increment change of foresight blade (which is a change of + or - 0/15") raises or lowers the point of impact 1/2" (0.4752") at twenty-five yards. So you can actually roughly calculate what blade height difference you need to go straight to in you box and put on the rifle.

Also remember that (from my memory) the blade on military pattern No4 foresight elements (blades) is always the same height as it is the "bed" underneath the actual sight blade that gives the difference in height that then raises or lowers the point of impact. And that "bed" is either less or more in its height.

Why is this so? It is because the soldier was taught to use his foresight blade to help him judge how far away an enemy was. Again I forget the picture but I think that at 400 yards a man standing appeared as if he was the same height as the foresight blade?
 
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One last thing on British No4 rifles the blade drifts into the foresight block by being pushed in to it from the left side and to exit it by coming out from right side. So set up at twenty-five yards with the current sight in the rifle. Fire a three shot group. See where that is in relation to the point of aim. Then knowing that 0.15" change down will raise the point of impact by 1/2" work out from that what you need either to file off the sight currently fitted. Or which sight from your box of sights to fit. But remember measure twice cut once. And of course some (centre hold shooters) like at one hundred yards the group "all around" the point of aim whereas others (six o'clock hold shooters) like myself prefer the bottomost round of the group "sat" on top of the actual point of aim.
 
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Yes. Wooden blunt oblong bit is the back. Round metal sticking out bit the front. But again on the No4 I've driven them in and out from either side (if using a hammer and punch drift) as it is often easier with right handed hammer operators to make fine adjustment if you support the foresight block on what would be its left side. And of course the bolt handle is on the right side and often obstructs the rifle from laying down the other side up.
 
.. wiIl you be standing in front of the foresight, or, er, perhaps with the benefit of hindsight, behind, and to the port or the starboard, and facing toward the advancing zulus or your C/O? Take your time, lad!

 
I had it in my mind it was "one way in, the other way out" but I think I have demonstrated to the entire world that I know Jack...🤪
 
Have fun. I used to hate it. Bloody tiresome job if you had to change the blade out as you'd get the elevation straight off usually with the one change of correct blade. Then followed the "faff" of adjusting the windage which on the British and Indian issued SMLE meant having to take the nosecap off. Even with the correct tool. And on. And off. And on. Which is why the No4 has holes in its ears. So that with the correct No4 tool you can leave it on.
 
At Bisley last week with an Enfield No.4 Mk1* (1945) Long Branch rifle.
It was shooting a wee bit low.
One of other chaps said that I needed a lower foresight. I said no, what I have needed all my life is better hindsight....

Any hoo.

He said that he has some Enfield foresights and a few gizzmos that would get the job done. I thought it was just polite chat.
This afternoon a package arrived. It is the "gizzmos" and six Enfield foresights of varying heights.

Before I destroy this rifle and demonstrate (if further proof were needed) to the world and my wife, that I am not to be trusted with any aspect of DIY and dos and don'ts before I go out into the shed and get my lump hammer?

56lb

sack of spuds should do it. Or mole grips round muzzle then vice to tighten and raise sights

job done
 
@Stalker1962, didn't you f*** up a perfectly good Hardy rod, just by casting with it?
And now you're going to... oh never mind...

PS If you do go ahead, could you let me know when you're rezeroing at Bisley please? (Just 'cos I only live in Bucks and I'll know to duck)
 
@Stalker1962, didn't you f*** up a perfectly good Hardy rod, just by casting with it?
And now you're going to... oh never mind...

PS If you do go ahead, could you let me know when you're rezeroing at Bisley please? (Just 'cos I only live in Bucks and I'll know to duck)

In reference to your first point.
Indeed I did.
On the up side they (not sure who these they are) sent me a replacement distal end. I have just got back from a couple of nights in a Fishing Hut and when I can get my strength back, I may post a little bit of drivel to share my waterside adventures...

In reference to your second point.
Keep your head down tomorrow, for I shall be blundering about the Zero range with the .303.
 
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