Sorry I meant to add the holes in the faces of the nut. You use a pin driver to turn the nut. The rod is a bit big in the diagram. I've used 8mm rod successfully. The advantage of this is that perfectly matching dowel holes are very hard to achieve. This allows some movement to align the 2 surfaces before screwing it up tight as a tick. No refinishing needed.
If you use epoxy I would suggest you clean mating surfaces with a degreaser such as acetone before putting together. also if you use a hair dryer to warm the surfaces first the glue thins and soaks into the wood giving a better anchorage. I would tape up either side of the joint with insulating tape and wipe off excess glue asap. Others might like to comment on adding wood fibres to the glue
I was told that basically good epoxy is stronger than the wood you are joining.
Job done - thanks for all the guidance.
The existingebony tip came off easily enough. Removed the old dowel, sanded/ cleaned off the old adhesive. Cut anew bit of hardwood dowel. Solvent cleaned mating surfaces. Epoxy'd the dowel and mating faces, knocked it tight. Cleaned off the excess. Made sure the barrel channel was smooth and regular.
24hrs later, fine sanded the join. Oiled the stock back up, gave the rifle mechanics a good clean and screwed it all back up. All fine and bonny.
Jim
You should see buff horn tips and caps, now 'they' are notorious for coming loose and starting to crack and split. Ebony is one of my favourite materials for tips and caps, but it's got to be installed right to 'stick' and not to split or crack over time.
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