Stress Relief Annealing cartridge brass

Alantoo

Well-Known Member
I have been exploring the subject of cartridge case annealing...well more accurately it is Stress Relief rather then full Annealing temperatures that most reloaders advocate for cartridge case necks.


Full annealing of brass (not cartridge cases) when you are working it in the workshop, is heated to a dull red (around 650˚C) whenever it gets too hard to continue cold forming. The Copper Development Association states the full annealing temperature range for 70/30 Cartridge Brass is (450-680˚C).


View attachment cuzn30 Cartridge Brass datasheet Ex.pdf


Some reloaders fully anneal their cartridge brass necks at dull red temps in daylight (around 550˚C whilst others state that this will ruin cartridge cases. I do not believe the doomsayers and cannot see how this will ruin your brass. It may not be as hard and springy (technical term) as low temperature stress-relieved brass, but it is still brass, and still perfectly capable of holding the bullet, and will obviously obturate more readily.


Before I read that stress relief was sufficient for cartridge case necks, I annealed the neck and shoulder of a batch to just getting red colour in a dark room about 500˚C... It felt a similar resistance on the press when seating the bullet as in un-annealed once fired cases.. As long as the batch is all done the same, from one round to the next there will be little POI difference, at least there was not in my case. There may well be a pressure, velocity or POI difference between a fully annealed neck and a stress relieved one of course. But as long as the whole batch are done the same there should not be a problem. I did not notice any problems with the batch I did at 500˚C and am still using. They toughen up with the subsequent work hardening from F/L resizing, factory crimp and firing of course.


The critical problem for overheating is not at the neck but at the other end. That is where all agree that the original brass condition must not be altered by any heat. 450˚F (232˚C) Templac is often used around the case body to show that the heat has not travelled toward the head.


The stress relieving temperature of 70/30 cartridge brass is between 250-350˚C. The advantage for reloaders is that as the recrystallization temperature is not exceeded, no decrease in hardness or strength occurs, good for neck tension.


Stress relieving of brass is a science all of its own. The state of the brass...its molecular and working/manipulated history before you start any stress relieving process affects the outcome hugely. The higher the previous stress and hardness, the lower the temperature that stress relieving starts. None of the systems we as reloaders can do can be based on any solid foundation because of this. We do not know what the manufacturers did…so it is all a bit of an approximation. Luckily I think it is not particularly critical where we end up with the brass. Even fully annealed necks will still work as mentioned above. Just trying to make them all the same is the best we can hope for.


The Properties vs annealing temperatures chart (taken from the paper below) shows the effects on hardness of various annealing temperatures…As mentioned above, the prior work-hardening determines the brass’ Brinel hardness starting point. A lot of the end result depends on the previous work hardened state of the brass and not just the temperature we anneal at. Stress relieving begins to occur at a lower temperature with harder brass and there is a dramatic range of hardness results from very small temperature variations between 250˚C and 350˚C. …worth saying again in slightly different words…There are dramatic differences in working properties produced by small temperature increases between 250˚C and 350˚C. These differences lessen at around the 400˚C mark where they all come together, so that would seem to be the best place to achieve a reasonably repeatable result from the variety of possible starting points.

Properties vs annealing temperatures.webp

Constant temperature could be achieved by using either tempstik type crayon or paint on every case. Many of the “annealing” machine manufacturers recommend that you use 750˚F (400˚C) templaq on, or in, the neck to show when that has been stress relieved. But they recommend this only for setting up…the arbitrary time determined is used for the subsequent cases.


The various systems that rely on timing, whether rotating in fingers, drill chuck or commercial machine do not account for brass thickness or precise position in the flame as they rotate. Given that a propane torch flame varies in temperature over 1000˚C from end to end, the slightest variation of position whether caused by wobble of rotation or holding a couple of mm further from the flame cone will have an effect on the temperature achieved by the case in the allotted time.

Propane flame temperatures.webpPropane flame.webp


My simple and cheap solution (and arguably more consistent) is to use the colour change temperature of plain soap at 400˚C as used in the full annealing of Aluminium.

The full annealing temperature of most common Aluminium alloys is between 350 -410˚C. One of the methods I was taught at school for annealing aluminium is to wipe it with a bar of plain soap…(ensure no Moisturising or other additives) and heat until that turns black...around 400˚C. In the workshop I always just put a squiggle down the bar and heat till it turns brown/black

The advantage for cartridge cases of this system over any of the machines or processes relying on time, is that even the slightest wobble to a hotter or cooler part of the torch flame can be compensated for, and the individual pieces of brass are always taken to a similar temperature to one another. In the video I show the brass being spun in different parts of the flame for different lengths of time but the temperature achieved is the same.





I attach a link to one of the reference papers "The properties of cold rolled - stress relief annealed 70-30 cartridge" by Robert F. Hartmann …most of which was heavy going for me as a metalwork practitioner so if any metallurgists can improve on my interpretations and conclusions please do.



As an awful warning….327.462˚C just happens to be the melting point of lead, so some reloaders stress-relieve their brass by dipping oiled cases through a layer of graphite into the molten lead…I just ended up with lead plugs in the cases and ruined too many trying to sort the process... :( Molten lead of course can be any temperature up to 1749˚C at which point it starts to boil…which is way past even full annealing temperature for 70/30 Cartridge Brass so unless you have a precisely temperature controlled lead bath it is a bit hit and miss anyway.

Alan



 
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Very Interesting stuff. I use one of these
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A86.J74vp49Zl38A0XQnnIlQ?p=bench+source+vertex+annealing+machine&fr=yhs-mozilla-003&fr2=piv-web&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003#id=7&vid=421acaa73f89a9d9f77ba5cdc539f24c&action=view

And have had very good results heating the case until it just shows a color change (VS red or orange) in a darkened room. In other words, when I can see something happening to the cleaned brass, that's it. So maybe i am not getting the full bath annealing that other do heating it to dull red or orange? Seems to be doing the job.~Muir
 
Induction annealing is the way to go, no flames, no hit and miss.
No need for nice and clean brass any more. Once I have my settings for the particular brass I'm good to go dirty or not!
The other nicety is that I can anneal while I'm reloading, it's no longer a faff and the annealer is in my loading room - no danger of naked flame.
 
Alan
Thank you for that most informative, well written and useful piece, well done!
Food for thought, certainly, a very useful addition to our lexicon of knowledge on this matter.
Peter
 
Induction annealing is the way to go, no flames, no hit and miss.
No need for nice and clean brass any more. Once I have my settings for the particular brass I'm good to go dirty or not!
The other nicety is that I can anneal while I'm reloading, it's no longer a faff and the annealer is in my loading room - no danger of naked flame.

Agreed, better process control. Set it up using a micro hardness tester (or metallography) to assess the state of anneal.
CH
 
Thank you Alan, a great piece of work.

However, I have read it a few times now, trying to get my head around exactly what you're saying and still can't quite understand what problems I am causing myself by heating until I just start to see a dull red glow. My method is the same as yours, using a drill and a flame. I appreciate that I am probably heating to around 550 degrees rather than your 400, but what damage am I doing to my brass at this temperature and what difference am I making to the consistency of my neck tension?

Thanks for your help, Nigel
 
Very Interesting stuff. I use one of these
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...=421acaa73f89a9d9f77ba5cdc539f24c&action=view

And have had very good results heating the case until it just shows a color change (VS red or orange) in a darkened room. In other words, when I can see something happening to the cleaned brass, that's it. So maybe i am not getting the full bath annealing that other do heating it to dull red or orange? Seems to be doing the job.~Muir

I did try that...I always used to look for the tell tales in both the metal and the flux when I was doing a lot of silver work...a sequence of joints using progressively lower melting point solders. But given that once melted and cooled the silver solders required a few degrees more to re-melt you find you can do a lot of subsequent joints using the same grade...just by hitting the right temperature. So I know it is possible to tune your eye to just a few degrees.

As the properties vs temperature chart shows, I am sure that you will do less harm and have less variation of hardness if you over-soften it in the 450-500˚C range, than if you are under-heating it to somewhere in 250-350˚C range where there will be a large difference in hardness from only few degrees of heating variation.


Induction annealing is the way to go, no flames, no hit and miss.
No need for nice and clean brass any more. Once I have my settings for the particular brass I'm good to go dirty or not!
The other nicety is that I can anneal while I'm reloading, it's no longer a faff and the annealer is in my loading room - no danger of naked flame.

I would love an induction heater for blacksmithing...the Chinese ones are down to around £3k now I just need the commission to justify it!

The soap process is cheap and simple and arguably as capable of getting the brass to an adequate level of repeatable/similar hardness.

The induction heater still has the disadvantage of working to an arbitrary time rather than the individual case, and if you are taking the brass to less than 350˚C without knowing what the manufacturing process was for that particular batch of cases you can see there is likely to be differences in the end result.

Obviously it wins hands down for convenience, but having worked with naked flames all my life they do not worry me! I respect them and I do not use them at the reloading bench. :)

Alan
Thank you for that most informative, well written and useful piece, well done!
Food for thought, certainly, a very useful addition to our lexicon of knowledge on this matter.
Peter

Thank you. I hope a metallurgist will be able to confirm or refute it, but it should be good for discussion...

Agreed, better process control. Set it up using a micro hardness tester (or metallography) to assess the state of anneal.
CH

Hmmm...if you know what the optimum hardness should be; and you know what the hardness of the brass is currently; and you know the alloy and the process that was used by the manufacturer....I agree you should be able to achieve it with that equipment.

Any idea of the cost of an induction heater and micro hardness tester and acquiring the manufacturers data?

Time taken to set this up for each batch of brass?

Versus a bar of plain soap and a gas torch! :)

Alan
 
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Induction annealing is the way to go, no flames, no hit and miss.
No need for nice and clean brass any more. Once I have my settings for the particular brass I'm good to go dirty or not!
The other nicety is that I can anneal while I'm reloading, it's no longer a faff and the annealer is in my loading room - no danger of naked flame.

no danger of naked flame ???? But you do have an induction coil glowing red hot, even if it is hidden away within your machine, you are obviousely happy using this technique and have been doing it safely, but I would be hesitent to be reloading and annealing in the same room at the same time
I would be interested in finding out more details about your induction annealing set up
Cheers
Ray
 
Thank you Alan, a great piece of work.

However, I have read it a few times now, trying to get my head around exactly what you're saying and still can't quite understand what problems I am causing myself by heating until I just start to see a dull red glow. My method is the same as yours, using a drill and a flame. I appreciate that I am probably heating to around 550 degrees rather than your 400, but what damage am I doing to my brass at this temperature and what difference am I making to the consistency of my neck tension?

Thanks for your help, Nigel

I don't think you are doing any damage...see my reply to Muir.

The point is as long as you take it to a temperature over 350˚C you will have achieved the stress relief required. Above that temperature the slope of the hardness change becomes less steep so the slight variation between individual case temperatures (however heated) has less effect on the resulting hardness.

I started reading up about this because some of the pundits were saying things like "if you see a change of colour in the flame/see any trace of red you have burned out the zinc and you must scrap your brass". Knowing that I have annealed brass by taking it to red in a well lit workshop without any problem...and it always has to go well over that temperature for silver soldering I knew those statements to be rubbish.

However as reloaders, we don't need the necks to be fully annealed...stress relief is all we need and a fairly consistent result can be had with soap at around 400˚C and that tell-tale can be seen whatever the ambient light conditions.

The case mouth can be dented with a thumbnail if the necks are fully annealed...they will still work fine, as you know annealed brass isn't floppy, it is still brass!

Alan
 
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no danger of naked flame ???? But you do have an induction coil glowing red hot, even if it is hidden away within your machine, you are obviousely happy using this technique and have been doing it safely, but I would be hesitent to be reloading and annealing in the same room at the same time
I would be interested in finding out more details about your induction annealing set up
Cheers
Ray

No danger of igniting powders with a naked flame. BTW What 'glowing red hot coil'?
I have a 60kW induction heater at work and even at that power the coil does not glow...


The induction heater still has the disadvantage of working to an arbitrary time rather than the individual case, and if you are taking the brass to less than 350˚C without knowing what the manufacturing process was for that particular batch of cases you can see there is likely to be differences in the end result.

Obviously it wins hands down for convenience, but having worked with naked flames all my life they do not worry me!

Not exactly an 'arbitrary' time - a consistent timed process.
Naked flames do not worry me, being a coded welder.
On the other hand naked flames near propellants in the house worry me.
 
snip...

Not exactly an 'arbitrary' time - a consistent timed process.snip....

It is arbitrary in that it is not directly related to the individual case temperature achieved as per the observed colour change of the soap. I am sure the timing and is very precise and consistent, but you still have to set that time relative to a series of tested samples of the cases, unless you test each one.

Nitpicking pedantry aside, :) I am not arguing against the induction heater.

The point of the post is that provided that you achieve over 350˚C you will stress relieve the brass, and at around 400˚C the variations in resulting hardness are reduced relatively to prior hardness and slight temperature variations...

That works with whatever system you use for heating...induction or naked flame.


snip...
Naked flames do not worry me, being a coded welder.
On the other hand naked flames near propellants in the house worry me.

See my edited post, I misunderstood your initial comment...lazy of me but I took it as read that naked flames and combustibles are a no no!

Alan
 
It is arbitrary in that it is not directly related to the individual case temperature achieved as per the observed colour change of the soap. I am sure the timing and is very precise and consistent, but you still have to set that time relative to a series of tested samples of the cases, unless you test each one.

Alan

Where is the problem? sample testing for batch processing is the usual approach.
 
Another way is using a electric lead melting pot set at some such degrees. Such as used for casting bullets. Grip the base of the case in tongs and dip the neck into the molten lead. Time for five seconds (or whatever you'll see on You Tube) and the job is done. Use a simple sweep hand watch or clock. I don't know if you then drop in water or not. I apologise I can't give the specifics as, me, when the cases get tired I just buy a new batch.
 
Another way is using a electric lead melting pot set at some such degrees. Such as used for casting bullets. Grip the base of the case in tongs and dip the neck into the molten lead. Time for five seconds (or whatever you'll see on You Tube) and the job is done. Use a simple sweep hand watch or clock. I don't know if you then drop in water or not. I apologise I can't give the specifics as, me, when the cases get tired I just buy a new batch.

Snip...

As an awful warning….327.462˚C just happens to be the melting point of lead, so some reloaders stress-relieve their brass by dipping oiled cases through a layer of graphite into the molten lead…I just ended up with lead plugs in the cases and ruined too many trying to sort the process... :( Molten lead of course can be any temperature up to 1749˚C at which point it starts to boil…which is way past even full annealing temperature for 70/30 Cartridge Brass so unless you have a precisely temperature controlled lead bath it is a bit hit and miss anyway.


Alan




If it works for you, good. It is still an arbritarily timed process even if you can control the temperature of the lead accurately.

The point of the thread is not really about the heating system, the soap colour is just a simple way to achieve the circa 400˚C.

The most important thing I found is the information that if you are Stress Relief Annealing between 250˚C and 350˚C there can be a 95 Brinel point difference in the resulting hardness depending on the starting hardness of your brass. Almost 1:1.

Between 350˚C and 450˚C ranges the difference is only 20 Brinell points. Around 0.2:1

There is therefore much more tolerance (5 times more) for a slight variation in achieved temperature around the 400˚C with less effect on the variation of resulting hardness.

Alan
 
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Thanks for the more detailed info Alantoo. As I said i don't bother with any annealing just scrap the cases and buy some more. But reading you comprehensive write up on the lead pot method I'm glad that I don't! If i shot the old obsolete calibres for which cases are no longer available I would. But as I am now just a .270 and .30-06 user I don't bother as I've always thought that after five or six firings it is best to throw away and start over.
 
I did try that...I always used to look for the tell tales in both the metal and the flux when I was doing a lot of silver work...a sequence of joints using progressively lower melting point solders. But given that once melted and cooled the silver solders required a few degrees more to re-melt you find you can do a lot of subsequent joints using the same grade...just by hitting the right temperature. So I know it is possible to tune your eye to just a few degrees.

As the properties vs temperature chart shows, I am sure that you will do less harm and have less variation of hardness if you over-soften it in the 450-500˚C range, than if you are under-heating it to somewhere in 250-350˚C range where there will be a large difference in hardness from only few degrees of heating variation.




I would love an induction heater for blacksmithing...the Chinese ones are down to around £3k now I just need the commission to justify it!

The soap process is cheap and simple and arguably as capable of getting the brass to an adequate level of repeatable/similar hardness.

The induction heater still has the disadvantage of working to an arbitrary time rather than the individual case, and if you are taking the brass to less than 350˚C without knowing what the manufacturing process was for that particular batch of cases you can see there is likely to be differences in the end result.

Obviously it wins hands down for convenience, but having worked with naked flames all my life they do not worry me! I respect them and I do not use them at the reloading bench. :)



Thank you. I hope a metallurgist will be able to confirm or refute it, but it should be good for discussion...



Hmmm...if you know what the optimum hardness should be; and you know what the hardness of the brass is currently; and you know the alloy and the process that was used by the manufacturer....I agree you should be able to achieve it with that equipment.

Any idea of the cost of an induction heater and micro hardness tester and acquiring the manufacturers data?

Time taken to set this up for each batch of brass?

Versus a bar of plain soap and a gas torch! :)

Alan

No need for manufacturer data, baseline against a new case, both in terms of hardness and microstructure.

Talking about microstructure, the recrystallised microstructure (grain size) will depend on the amount of cold work (lattice strain energy) so the number of firings and resizing before annealing will have to be considered if you want to return to the baseline.
CH
 
no danger of naked flame ???? But you do have an induction coil glowing red hot, even if it is hidden away within your machine, you are obviousely happy using this technique and have been doing it safely, but I would be hesitent to be reloading and annealing in the same room at the same time
I would be interested in finding out more details about your induction annealing set up
Cheers
Ray

Ray, induction coils don't get hot, they're water cooled.
CH
 
No need for manufacturer data, baseline against a new case, both in terms of hardness and microstructure.

snip...
CH

The specific alloy used by the manufacturer has no bearing on the issue? How variable is the hardness of the cases as they come from the factory? What cost is the testing kit and how many cases are required for you to establish the baseline?

I am getting the impression you seem to have taken the post as something other than a bit of information regarding the advantage of Stress Relief Annealing and a simple way of achieving it. :)

But do you see any specific problem in the conclusions I have drawn from using the soap colour to achieve around 400˚C and do you think that for most reloaders it is a reasonable goal and approach? Is it worse than just doing by counting to 7?

snip...

Talking about microstructure, the recrystallised microstructure (grain size) will depend on the amount of cold work (lattice strain energy) so the number of firings and resizing before annealing will have to be considered if you want to return to the baseline.
CH

Agreed...but how is that different from what I have been writing? That is what the graph shows, and I stressed that point many times...copied from my first post

"The state of the brass...its molecular and working/manipulated history before you start any stress relieving process affects the outcome hugely. The higher the previous stress and hardness, the lower the temperature that stress relieving starts.

As mentioned above, the prior work-hardening determines the brass’ Brinel hardness starting point. A lot of the end result depends on the previous work hardened state of the brass and not just the temperature we anneal at."


As I understood it, the advantage of using the stress relief temperatures was that they were largely below those where recrystallisation took place. The properties vs annealing temperatures graph shows that after 350˚C the variations of hardness outcome are minimal whatever the varied amount of prior cold work/the number of firings and resizing that occurred before annealing...and that recrystallisation commences below 300˚C in only the extremely stressed brass, and very little in the others until well over 400˚C.

Identifying that window of readily achievable consistency was really rather the point of sharing the info in the thread...or have I misunderstood the graph and Hartmann's paper?

Alan

P.S. if the testing kit is very expensive and you have access to one...how much would you charge me per case if I sent a few cases to see how consistent the soap colour system was and how the hardness compared to the factory pre-fired version?

One of the empirical results is that I ended up with 5 shot groups of 0.4" 0.7" 1.175" with three different loads of powder using the "soap annealed" brass...it would be interesting to see whether the brass hardness rather than the propellant load or the jerk-on-the-trigger had the most bearing on the groups.
 
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I have been exploring the subject of cartridge case annealing...well more accurately it is Stress Relief rather then full Annealing temperatures that most reloaders advocate for cartridge case necks.



Interesting read - What it boils down to is using plain soap as your temperature indicator (400c) instead of using exactly the same routine using the more usual (and more expensive) 750F Templiaq.

Another factor to consider is that the annealing process in brass is a factor of time AND temperature.

I use these machines:



 
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