Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Distraught to find my new cider press screw broken in the post. Do any of you capable metal working folk know if it can be welded? Thanks
ES
ES
Can this be welded?
- Thread starter Essexsussex
- Start date
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Thanks Wayne - he's bigger than he looks, 1.75 inches diameter so it was the perfect thing! But if it'll break again then I will have to think again.
Is it cast iron?
If so and the colour of the deposit is not a problem, which I assume it isn't, then you could stick weld it with some bronze rods. I had some and they allowed better resistance to cracking and fatigue. I would have to have a root in the workshop as I may have some left. I re-joined the knee handle on a milling machine and that survived many years before the machine was replaced with no issues.
If so and the colour of the deposit is not a problem, which I assume it isn't, then you could stick weld it with some bronze rods. I had some and they allowed better resistance to cracking and fatigue. I would have to have a root in the workshop as I may have some left. I re-joined the knee handle on a milling machine and that survived many years before the machine was replaced with no issues.
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone - unfortunately it is a million years old so no idea who the manufacturer is!
kimh being that bit shorter wouldn't be an issue.
wayne - that may well be the net result, and thank you. I need to put 12t of pressure downwards but I'm sure m36 would be ok.
eldon - sounds worth a go.
thanks everyone
ES
kimh being that bit shorter wouldn't be an issue.
wayne - that may well be the net result, and thank you. I need to put 12t of pressure downwards but I'm sure m36 would be ok.
eldon - sounds worth a go.
thanks everyone
ES
kimh
Well-Known Member
I'll mill cut it to take the torque, creating a key, spigot it, then weld, shape back to the thread
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Thanks Kim, pm returned!
Aha, I see.
If you are making a mechanical joint to take some torque, brazing would be safer (for me at least)...I have had very little success with welding cast, apart from for cosmetic purposes. It makes a beautiful bead with the TIG and cast or dissimilar metal rods (312 29/9) and then goes ping twenty minutes later
When the OP first was looking to improve his cider press I suggested a length of M36 and a few nuts for £40 (Parker steel) would be the hassle free way forward...trying to modify an unknown thread and nut box from something else just seemed a lot of difficult and unnecessary work, especially if it is cast...but hey ho.
It is true though, a bit of studding would not look very oldy worldy cider pressy!
Alan
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Aha, I see.
If you are making a mechanical joint to take some torque, brazing would be safer (for me at least)...I have had very little success with welding cast, apart from for cosmetic purposes. It makes a beautiful bead with the TIG and cast or dissimilar metal rods (312 29/9) and then goes ping twenty minutes later
When the OP first was looking to improve his cider press I suggested a length of M36 and a few nuts for £40 (Parker steel) would be the hassle free way forward...trying to modify an unknown thread and nut box from something else just seemed a lot of difficult and unnecessary work, especially if it is cast...but hey ho.
It is true though, a bit of studding would not look very oldy worldy cider pressy!
Alan
alan
your suggestion was well received but I don't have any metal working skills and this appeared on eBay - but it was in one piece and would have saved me a lot of work as the idea is to set it into a new press made of 150x200 timber which I certainly can do. Had it not come up for sale I would have followed your suggestion.
Did the vendor say what the thread and nut were from? The round form thread is curious.
Could you use the shortened length as is? Squeeze, then wind it back up and put in a spacer block or three to give you the stroke required?
Alan
Spotted these on eBay...
Interesting Reclaimed Very Old Steel Cider Press Parts Threads And Handles | eBay
Victorian cider press parts | eBay
Cider Press | eBay
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There is no reason you cant drill out both parts and use a piece of material as dowel. Then drill through the route of the thread and plug weld the dowel. Grind/file the weld, bit of 316 bar pre heat and stainless/nickel rod for the plug weld
Guess it is used in compression, what is the route diameter?
Tim.243
Guess it is used in compression, what is the route diameter?
Tim.243
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Thanks Alan - those are interesting but out of my price range!
tim this is my problem - I do t even know what a route diamaeter is!
tim this is my problem - I do t even know what a route diamaeter is!
At a guess about 1.250 taking off .250 per side for the depth of the thread, so a + .750 hole with a .750 stainless shaft. with those big threads there is loads of room to drill a hole and weld into the pin
blend the weld and the bottom of the route!
If you want to bring it up and spend the 1/2 day of making me tea while the battle is going on to fix it then you are welcome. No charge.
Tim.243
Tim, I used to have your determination with these one offs, amazed a few people over the years, I wait in anticipation of a piccy of the apple juice flowing again. Steve.
Tim, I used to have your determination with these one offs, amazed a few people over the years, I wait in anticipation of a piccy of the apple juice flowing again. Steve.
Well so long as you have a plan " even if it is a bad one " you are half way there....
Beats the crap out of writing risk assessments and crying over the pistol ban while copy pasting Bxt s##t all day lol
Tim.243
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