Blaser click!

[cjs66]

Ok, I've just started reloading and have worked up a load for my 22-250, to start with.
Long story short, ended up with a very accurate load in both 50grn Nosler BT and a decent 55grn Hornady SP.
Right through the load development, one thing was very annoying. Just about every time I took a shot, CLICK!
My mate, who was with me at the time and isn't a Blaser fan, found it very amusing. It's the Blaser click.
I have heard about this with reloads but I've also heard that full-length sizing cured it. Seems not in my case. At the moment I wouldn't use these reloads on quarry as I'm not sure the rifle is going to fire.
Is there something I can do to rectify this? It hasn't been cheap putting all the gear together to reload, as I have 3 barrels for
my R8 and I've bought kit to load all of them.
Also loaded for my 22 Hornet and have ended up with a cracking round for that.. No clicks there...

So what do you think?

cjs

 

[deeangeo]

Try full length resizing to fired case headspace dimension?
Unless there’s some kind of trigger/firing pin/bolt issue, I can’t see why doing the above would not work every time.
No issues with my K95, but a straight pull may well be somewhat different in this respect. Others out there will know better than me.

 

[Alantoo]

Presumably one of two basic reasons...either the ammunition or the rifle is at fault.

Does it do it with the other calibres. Yes? then rifle at fault. No? you have it cornered!

Does it do it with factory ammunition in the 22-250. Yes? then rifle at fault. No? home loads at fault.



At the range last night I put the 1050th round through my R8 .308

I have had one instance where it went click because I had not pushed the bolt home fully.

I have had one phut when the primer semi ignited but did not set off the charge.

Each time I thought aha! the dreaded unexplained Blaser click, but no such luck. Very reassuring safety system that means it goes click if things aren't right...far prefer that to the alternative of going bang when things aren't right!

Alan

p.s. You say "Just about every time I took a shot, CLICK!" did it go bang the second time around or did you just abandon those rounds?

Is it a new rifle or just a new barrel?

Do you use the same bolt head for any of the other barrels?

A

 

[cjs66]

Hi Alantoo.
I've only loaded for the Blaser in 22-250 and until today, only used factory ammo and it has shot hundreds of them faultlessly. As it has done and continues to do with all barrels with factory ammo.
The times it has gone click today has always been the first time tried from the mag or top loaded. if then top loaded again and the bolt,
what I would call "unacceptably rammed home" the round would fire. The bolt has got to be slammed shut for the round to go off.
Like I said, I'm new to reloading but, I was overlooked throughout the process by a couple of very experienced mates and was told, that's Blaser for ya!

Any help?

cjs

 

[Alantoo]

Hi Alantoo.
I've only loaded for the Blaser in 22-250 and until today, only used factory ammo and it has shot hundreds of them faultlessly. As it has done and continues to do with all barrels with factory ammo.
The times it has gone click today has always been the first time tried from the mag or top loaded. if then top loaded again and the bolt,
what I would call "unacceptably rammed home" the round would fire. The bolt has got to be slammed shut for the round to go off.
Like I said, I'm new to reloading but, I was overlooked throughout the process by a couple of very experienced mates and was told, that's Blaser for ya!

Any help?

cjs

Well yes, if you had to slam the bolt home then the cartridge is at fault. The safety system went click because the bolt was not fully home/locked up/in battery.

Possible causes...

You say you full length resized them...

1. There have been a number of occasions on here recently where people have not set up their F/L dies in the press correctly or have failed to ensure that the case holder is in firm contact with the bottom of the die every time. The result being that they have not actually resized the case fully.

2. Did you trim the cases to the correct length after F/L sizing?

3. Did you set the COAL to the bullet manufacturer's data.

Alan

 

[cjs66]

Brass was Norma, once fired in my rifle and correct length, and when checked, it looked to of been fully resized? Yes, bullet COAL from Nosler manual. The guys that helped me on do not load for Blasers, although very experienced, maybe turn bolts are more forgiving? I'll check with my gunsmith in the morning, he shoots a R93. I hope it's something that can be resolved as its a PITA!

cjs

 

[Edinburgh Rifles]

you need to bump the shoulders back a couple of thou more

get a headspace comparator and check your case from datum point to head

some shell holder die combinations may not allow you to bump the shoulder back enough

well known issue with a non cam lock bolt

 

[cjs66]

you need to bump the shoulders back a couple of thou more

get a headspace comparator and check your case from datum point to head

some shell holder die combinations may not allow you to bump the shoulder back enough

well known issue with a non cam lock bolt

Ta..

Will try and let you know the outcome..

cjs

 

[PeterH]

I have had a click a couple of times both in my R93 in 22.250 and 6.5 - each time caused by me not pushing the bolt forward enough when trying to load quietly

Referring to Edinburgh's entry, I keep my shoulder datum on the 22.250 at a max of 1.569"

 

[Alantoo]

Brass was Norma, once fired in my rifle and correct length, and when checked, it looked to of been fully resized? Yes, bullet COAL from Nosler manual. The guys that helped me on do not load for Blasers, although very experienced, maybe turn bolts are more forgiving? I'll check with my gunsmith in the morning, he shoots a R93. I hope it's something that can be resolved as its a PITA!

cjs

Those are not actually direct answers to my questions.

Was the shell holder pushed fully home to the bottom of the die when resizing? I am slightly worried when you say "it looked to of been fully resized" How would/did you know?

And was it actually trimmed to length after resizing? I have had some combinations of chamber, case and die mean that the O/A case length is increased during resizing even if the shoulders have been bumped back to SAAMI spec.

Try measuring the overall length of the case of one of the problematic rounds now just out of interest.

One way or the other the round sounds as if it was too long...just a matter of finding out where and why.

Alan

 

[glogin]

Click like that?



I experimented with my r93 and r8 a bit and observer the same thing as you did. Has to bump shoulder otherwise the bolt will not fully close and the rifle will not fire. You can slam the bolt and it may close and fire ok, but you will fail to do it at some point when out hunting.
Since I started FL sizing all works well never ever again seen this issue. Just make sure you bump the shoulder - this is critical. Hornady headspace gauge is very useful here if you want to partially size to extend case life.

 

[Border]

Were the primers seated flush or below case head? This can also make a difference chambering with turnbolts.

 

[Alantoo]

you need to bump the shoulders back a couple of thou more

get a headspace comparator and check your case from datum point to head

some shell holder die combinations may not allow you to bump the shoulder back enough

well known issue with a non cam lock bolt

A fortnight ago at the range my friend had a number of cases which would not chamber in his turn bolt Varberger. They had been re-sized in his L. E. Wilson die.

They would chamber and extract with no problem in my R8.

Somebody on here recently made the comment that...the good thing about standards is that we have so many of them!

Alan

 

[cjs66]

Click like that?



I experimented with my r93 and r8 a bit and observer the same thing as you did. Has to bump shoulder otherwise the bolt will not fully close and the rifle will not fire. You can slam the bolt and it may close and fire ok, but you will fail to do it at some point when out hunting.
Since I started FL sizing all works well never ever again seen this issue. Just make sure you bump the shoulder - this is critical. Hornady headspace gauge is very useful here if you want to partially size to extend case life.

Yes, exactly like that..

cjs

 

[Freeforester]

I don't believe the problem is with your rifle. I'd take a careful look at your homeloads, and ensure they are the correct dimensions. After that, make sure you close the bolt properly, as most misfires (including in conventional bolt action rifles) are caused by the bolt not being fully engaged/locked, but one hears more about this from puzzled Blaser and other makes of straight pull action rifle users, as it is a mistake more readily made in straight pull actions than conventional bolt action rifles.

 

[adrianevo]

I have both r93 and r8 Blazers don't like home load ! But new brass will eliminate the problem
get some lapua you won't look back.

 

[cjs66]

Yes, I agree, the problem is definitely with the load dimensions, not the rifle. It shoots factory perfectly.

I'll get some Lapua as suggested.

cjs

 

[bowji john]

I was doing a ladder test at the Roundhouse last weekend with brand new Lapua

I had only neck sized as the new cases were under the length of my measured headspace (which I had measured from a fired PPU round using the hornady headspace guage)

Out of 45 rounds fired, one would not seat and two went click

I planned to full size with the now fire formed Lapua leaving a 3 thou headspace

PS - what do you mean by 'bump shoulder'

Further to my above .....

I suddenly realised, when rereading the above, that perhaps the headspace measured using PPU might have no bearing on that measured using the Lapua

I just remeasured using a fired PPU round and a fired Lapua round and found only a 1 thou difference !

Could have been major egg on face!

 

[Bigboab29]

I have two blasers, I have had this issue with both of them, the problem is your bolt is not 100% closed, its probably 99% closed and if you look at a round after your rifle has clicked you'll see the faintest of marks on the primer, make sure you give the bolt a good close if you are using longish rounds and problem solved

 

[fizzbangwhallop]

I agree with the consensus that it sounds like the case is slightly oversize not allowing the bolt to fully close.

When loading for any of my rifles I always cycle the fired cases through the rifle prior to any prep... those that fit get neck-sized, those that don't get a full-length. I've rarely had a problem neck-sizing for Blasers in .22-250, 2 x .243's and 7mm Rem Mag. Non-Blaser in Sako & Tikka .243, Sako A1 .20Prac, Tikka .17Rem. The full-length rate is about 5%....often less, Lapua, RP or FC makes no difference.

Cheers