Lansky Deluxe Sharpening Kit
- Thread starter JH83
- Start date
Neoublie1
Well-Known Member
I have one, I find them really good. Takes a bit of getting used to.
I made a little platform for it which made it easier.
I would recommend using a strop once you’ve finished sharpening it.
there is the “warthog v sharp classic“ which would sharpen it quicker for roughly the same price on amazon if I remember
I made a little platform for it which made it easier.
I would recommend using a strop once you’ve finished sharpening it.
there is the “warthog v sharp classic“ which would sharpen it quicker for roughly the same price on amazon if I remember
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Are we talking about the tri angle sharpmaker?
In reply to the above, I am guessing it will be the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204MF.
This is a decent, easy to use system and will put a sharp edge to most knives, even serrated edges + scissors. It will not work on all knife edges though.
Knives like the Falkniven PHK, have a convex blade, so need to be sharpened differently, the Sharpmaker, Lansky turn box / masters edge, would sharpen a convex blade eventually, but would change the manufacturers edge completely.
Getting back to the OP, IMO, the Lanskys deluxe kit, does a job, I would recommend using it with the Lansky bench clamp to give a controlled, consistent, edge sweep.
It will get a good sharp edge but to me, the other 3 products I've mentioned, get the same result. ( the deluxe kit system is a lot of faff, changing the grits over etc )
The turn box type is a simple up to down action, against the rods, providing you keep a consistent stroke on both sides.
Lansky Masters Edge, is a bigger turn box type sharpener, with longer ceramic rods and 3 angles in total, 17* 20* 25* angles.
The rods give a very sharp edge on most blade types, but the rods do tend to wobble slightly. Like the smaller turn box rods, these are very easy to use.
The Lansky 4 rod turn box, is a small wooden box, with 2 grades of rods and two angles, 20* + 25*, again easy + simple to use, to get good results on most blade types.
If I had two choices ( of the ones I've mentioned ) I would go for the Sharpmaker for home use and the Lansky 4 rod Turn Box for quick home or field use, knife touch up and gently use a strop, to get a razor sharp edge.
Have a look on You Tube first, before you commit to buying. Choose which sharpening system, you think is easier to use.
It depends on your knife type, the cost of your knife !
Ie. Dont use a BladeTec on your one off, expensive, Damacus blade or you will rip +shred it to bits !
You can also use different sandpaper grits and oil / wet stones to sharpen your knives.
The Lansky ceramic rod sharpener is clean, quick and easy.
Good luck, what ever you decide to go with.
ATB.
This is a decent, easy to use system and will put a sharp edge to most knives, even serrated edges + scissors. It will not work on all knife edges though.
Knives like the Falkniven PHK, have a convex blade, so need to be sharpened differently, the Sharpmaker, Lansky turn box / masters edge, would sharpen a convex blade eventually, but would change the manufacturers edge completely.
Getting back to the OP, IMO, the Lanskys deluxe kit, does a job, I would recommend using it with the Lansky bench clamp to give a controlled, consistent, edge sweep.
It will get a good sharp edge but to me, the other 3 products I've mentioned, get the same result. ( the deluxe kit system is a lot of faff, changing the grits over etc )
The turn box type is a simple up to down action, against the rods, providing you keep a consistent stroke on both sides.
Lansky Masters Edge, is a bigger turn box type sharpener, with longer ceramic rods and 3 angles in total, 17* 20* 25* angles.
The rods give a very sharp edge on most blade types, but the rods do tend to wobble slightly. Like the smaller turn box rods, these are very easy to use.
The Lansky 4 rod turn box, is a small wooden box, with 2 grades of rods and two angles, 20* + 25*, again easy + simple to use, to get good results on most blade types.
If I had two choices ( of the ones I've mentioned ) I would go for the Sharpmaker for home use and the Lansky 4 rod Turn Box for quick home or field use, knife touch up and gently use a strop, to get a razor sharp edge.
Have a look on You Tube first, before you commit to buying. Choose which sharpening system, you think is easier to use.
It depends on your knife type, the cost of your knife !
Ie. Dont use a BladeTec on your one off, expensive, Damacus blade or you will rip +shred it to bits !
You can also use different sandpaper grits and oil / wet stones to sharpen your knives.
The Lansky ceramic rod sharpener is clean, quick and easy.
Good luck, what ever you decide to go with.
ATB.
Me too.
But the turn rod box, is quick and easy to use, in the right scenario. ( ie. Field use )
You pays your money . . .
You makes your choice !
But the turn rod box, is quick and easy to use, in the right scenario. ( ie. Field use )
You pays your money . . .
You makes your choice !
In reply to the above, I am guessing it will be the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204MF.
This is a decent, easy to use system and will put a sharp edge to most knives, even serrated edges + scissors. It will not work on all knife edges though.
Knives like the Falkniven PHK, have a convex blade, so need to be sharpened differently, the Sharpmaker, Lansky turn box / masters edge, would sharpen a convex blade eventually, but would change the manufacturers edge completely.
Getting back to the OP, IMO, the Lanskys deluxe kit, does a job, I would recommend using it with the Lansky bench clamp to give a controlled, consistent, edge sweep.
It will get a good sharp edge but to me, the other 3 products I've mentioned, get the same result. ( the deluxe kit system is a lot of faff, changing the grits over etc )
The turn box type is a simple up to down action, against the rods, providing you keep a consistent stroke on both sides.
Lansky Masters Edge, is a bigger turn box type sharpener, with longer ceramic rods and 3 angles in total, 17* 20* 25* angles.
The rods give a very sharp edge on most blade types, but the rods do tend to wobble slightly. Like the smaller turn box rods, these are very easy to use.
The Lansky 4 rod turn box, is a small wooden box, with 2 grades of rods and two angles, 20* + 25*, again easy + simple to use, to get good results on most blade types.
If I had two choices ( of the ones I've mentioned ) I would go for the Sharpmaker for home use and the Lansky 4 rod Turn Box for quick home or field use, knife touch up and gently use a strop, to get a razor sharp edge.
Have a look on You Tube first, before you commit to buying. Choose which sharpening system, you think is easier to use.
It depends on your knife type, the cost of your knife !
Ie. Dont use a BladeTec on your one off, expensive, Damacus blade or you will rip +shred it to bits !
You can also use different sandpaper grits and oil / wet stones to sharpen your knives.
The Lansky ceramic rod sharpener is clean, quick and easy.
Good luck, what ever you decide to go with.
ATB.
Thanks! For the falkiven F1 and helles what system would be best? I’ve spent decent cash on my blades and want to look after them.
I think that I am correct, in thinking that the F1 has a convex blade edge.
So that requires a different sharpening technique to a scandi grind like a Mora edge.
( The Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky turn box, would be great for a Mora scandi grind or a flat grind edge )
But, one of the best ways to resharpen the F1 blade is to use a computer mouse pad, which gives slightly, when pressed and graduated sandpaper grit.
The lower the grit number ie. 400, 800, the more abrasive it is.
So a 1500 or 3000 grit is far less abrasive than 800.
Start with a low number and finish / polish with a high number ie. 3000.
Same applies sandpaper, whet and oil stones.
Check out You Tube videos on this.
In the F1 case, take care and choose the grit paper wisely, also tape it down, or it will rip easily and move !
Practise on an old knife first, be careful not to scratch your blade.
As I said earlier, a convex grind edge is different than a scandi grind or flat grind edge, so you need to use the appropriate sharpening technique for each, or you may change the original manufacturers grind angle, without realising it.
I do not know what the Esse grinds are, but the above apples to them also.
ATB.
So that requires a different sharpening technique to a scandi grind like a Mora edge.
( The Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky turn box, would be great for a Mora scandi grind or a flat grind edge )
But, one of the best ways to resharpen the F1 blade is to use a computer mouse pad, which gives slightly, when pressed and graduated sandpaper grit.
The lower the grit number ie. 400, 800, the more abrasive it is.
So a 1500 or 3000 grit is far less abrasive than 800.
Start with a low number and finish / polish with a high number ie. 3000.
Same applies sandpaper, whet and oil stones.
Check out You Tube videos on this.
In the F1 case, take care and choose the grit paper wisely, also tape it down, or it will rip easily and move !
Practise on an old knife first, be careful not to scratch your blade.
As I said earlier, a convex grind edge is different than a scandi grind or flat grind edge, so you need to use the appropriate sharpening technique for each, or you may change the original manufacturers grind angle, without realising it.
I do not know what the Esse grinds are, but the above apples to them also.
ATB.
I have some Japanese whetstone kicking around, 1000, 3000 and 6000. Truth be told I never invested the time in them. I assume these are just as good as sandpaper? Thanks again
Hello JH83,
You are welcome.
Whetstones do and will sharpen blades, chisels etc, providing you use the correct technique, strokes, on each side of the knife blade and pressure etc, etc. Practise, practise !
Compared to using sandpaper, whetstones are messier !
Start off with the 1000, then the 3000 and finally the 6000. Be gentle with them.
Give them a good 10 minute soak first in clean, cold water, before using them.
Put the stone onto a non slip holder or on a non slip mat. Ensure plenty of soft, absorbent towering or tissue to wipe down the stone / blade residue / water. Gentle, not excessive pressure, even full length strokes over the stones, checking for the blade burr on both sides, wipe and check the blade edge and keep the stone wet, as the water dries out.
Check out YouTube videos first, there are a lot on whetstone / sandpaper / oil stone etc sharpening techniques.
Ray Mears has done a whetstone video, he alledgely, describes whetstone knife sharpening as ' therapeutic '
Each to their own !
If you can, practise on an old knife first.
If we are talking about the F1, because of its convex shape, as I've said before, different knives, need sharpening differently.
Google search knife blade profiles, convex, scandi grind and flat edge, it will explain their blade angles, to keep their designed, cutting edge.
Be careful, not the change your blade shape and not to scratch it, excessively, apart from the blade edge, which you are sharpening.
( hence trying it out, on an old knife first )
If you go with the sandpaper technique, you can buy different grit packs on the tinternet,
Videos on You Tube.
ATB.
You are welcome.
Whetstones do and will sharpen blades, chisels etc, providing you use the correct technique, strokes, on each side of the knife blade and pressure etc, etc. Practise, practise !
Compared to using sandpaper, whetstones are messier !
Start off with the 1000, then the 3000 and finally the 6000. Be gentle with them.
Give them a good 10 minute soak first in clean, cold water, before using them.
Put the stone onto a non slip holder or on a non slip mat. Ensure plenty of soft, absorbent towering or tissue to wipe down the stone / blade residue / water. Gentle, not excessive pressure, even full length strokes over the stones, checking for the blade burr on both sides, wipe and check the blade edge and keep the stone wet, as the water dries out.
Check out YouTube videos first, there are a lot on whetstone / sandpaper / oil stone etc sharpening techniques.
Ray Mears has done a whetstone video, he alledgely, describes whetstone knife sharpening as ' therapeutic '
Each to their own !
If you can, practise on an old knife first.
If we are talking about the F1, because of its convex shape, as I've said before, different knives, need sharpening differently.
Google search knife blade profiles, convex, scandi grind and flat edge, it will explain their blade angles, to keep their designed, cutting edge.
Be careful, not the change your blade shape and not to scratch it, excessively, apart from the blade edge, which you are sharpening.
( hence trying it out, on an old knife first )
If you go with the sandpaper technique, you can buy different grit packs on the tinternet,
Videos on You Tube.
ATB.
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