Scandy grind should be maintained exactly at the set bevel angle pushing away from you then flipping and coming back on the opposite bevel . Do not change the angle, do not try and create a second micro bevel .
The knife will feel blunt when its ready as you should have raised a burr , thats actually sitting on the edge giving thecimpresion of being blunt when you touch the edge . What you do then is strop it on a flat strop ( leather strip raw side up . Draw it in reverse like your buttering bread ( again feeling the bevel flat down ).
The idea is to knock off the burr and polish the edge all of a sudden your blunt knife turns scary sharp
Scandi is a great going for green wood and many jobs and will work well enough on game but its brutal and a high friction edge . Deervknives are at thier best with a full flat and a tiny secondary bevel , yet this will not beat a scandi on green wood .
The very worst thing is to change the angle when sharpening a scandi the angle will be even steeper again than the original and your unlikely to get it even both sides and true to dead centre along tge whole blade .
Just bear in mind that most pro butchers employ the services of a pro sharpener periodically to bring thier knives back to full sharp as stopping on the steel only polishes the edge (re aligning it straight )
What you say is correct for scandi-zero, but that is not what Moras are, from the factory. By design.
If you want to maintain them in that state then what I said is correct. But the change in angle when lifting the blade to touch the secondary for the last few strokes is very small, over-do it just slightly and you'll blunt it and make repair tedious.
When you strop a scandi-zero on a yielding leather surface using compound, you are actually creating a minute secondary bevel, slightly convex. As would be evident under a microscope. A very good edge can thus be started and easily maintained.
Regarding burr formation, yes it is part of the process but also highly dependent on how you use the stones. And the characteristics of the blade steel. Pushing the knife into the stone minimises this. Dragging the blade back along the stone maximises it. Swishing it about in a circular or figure-eight manner is a bit of both. If you sharpen progressively up through finer and finer grades it's less of an issue, but still needs dealing with.
Butchers steel their knives continuously to reset the edge where it may have rolled a little. Not actually sharpening them by taking off metal. Eventually they do need the edge put back by grinding, which as you say is often outsourced to a specialist.
Scandy grind should be maintained exactly at the set bevel angle pushing away from you then flipping and coming back on the opposite bevel . Do not change the angle, do not try and create a second micro bevel .
The knife will feel blunt when its ready as you should have raised a burr , thats actually sitting on the edge giving thecimpresion of being blunt when you touch the edge . What you do then is strop it on a flat strop ( leather strip raw side up . Draw it in reverse like your buttering bread ( again feeling the bevel flat down ).
The idea is to knock off the burr and polish the edge all of a sudden your blunt knife turns scary sharp
Scandi is a great going for green wood and many jobs and will work well enough on game but its brutal and a high friction edge . Deervknives are at thier best with a full flat and a tiny secondary bevel , yet this will not beat a scandi on green wood .
The very worst thing is to change the angle when sharpening a scandi the angle will be even steeper again than the original and your unlikely to get it even both sides and true to dead centre along tge whole blade .
Just bear in mind that most pro butchers employ the services of a pro sharpener periodically to bring thier knives back to full sharp as stopping on the steel only polishes the edge (re aligning it straight )
I think that you are describing how to sharpen Scandi-zero. Which a Mora is not, it was made with a micro bevel quite intentionally to serve as an accomodating utility knife, and requires some sort of approach similar to what I described if it is to be kept similar to how the factory intended. Which I suspect most owners have no interest in learning, maybe just scrape it through a blade tech until it can deliver no more, scrap and buy again. A perfectly valid strategy, which also keeps Mora going, I mean how many knives per year do they and the others make ? Why are we not buried under a mountain of such affordable and usable knives, but blunt beyond salvaging ? Does it make sense to bother sharpening a Mora using the same expensive equipment and time as a more premium knife deserves, unless it is a hobby in itself ? What I said is not incorrect.
But but but, investing in a better quality knife and learning how to look after it with some further investment in simple equipment, will more than pay for itself over the years c.f. a handful of neglected Mora beaters and be much more satisfying to own.
Of course it can also be a blank canvas to try out other ideas before trashing a better knife when they don't work as hoped.
I am not dogmatic about "mine is the best and only way to sharpening nirvana", there are seemingly at least as many peculiar ideas about how to do it as there are different ideas about how best to clean a rifle barrel, and with which products, or not.
I defer to your knowledge as a maker of premium knives. I think we are in agreement that a scandi grind is probably not the best for a modern hunting knife.
Or you can simply treat a Mora as an inexpensive blank canvas to practice on or to try out pet ideas.
