Gun Safe Installation

I'm in the process of installing my gun safe, however, i live in an old cottage and there isn't a straight or flush wall in the house :lol:

Would it be an issue if there is a small gap here and there down the side of the safe? I'm talking a few mm here and not cm's.

I'm fixing into brick and it wont be easily accessible. I guess i could even fix a bit of timber up the side to cover the gaps or am i overthinking it here?

Thanks!
If someone comes into your house tooled up with the serious intention of stealing your guns a few mm either way will not stop them. I think the gun security rules are there to stop the opportunist thief.
 
It does make me smile this.

I moved into another Force area. Identical email to both my old Force and my new Force.

The best part of two years passes, then C19 raises its ugly fcuking head.


Out of the blue, I get an phone call from the new FEO, and all matters are dealt with over the phone.


"Have you got a cabinet?"

"Have I! It's magnificent - come and see it."

"Actually, I live and work off the mainland, so can you just send me photograph of it".



I did just that. 📸

It could have been a photograph of any cabinet, in any part of the world (unless of course, he can read the metadata on the image?).

Six and more years later, still waiting for someone to come and have a wee look...🥺
Same as mine.
 
If someone comes into your house tooled up with the serious intention of stealing your guns a few mm either way will not stop them. I think the gun security rules are there to stop the opportunist thief.
This is the reality of it. My comment to my FEO was to that effect. The other security from the outside of the house working in are as much if not more important.
 
In the next few months we'll probably be looking to move house to downsize. About three years ago I needed to move my cabinets to make it easier to decorate. My question on here is, does anybody know a Billy burglar that could give me a lift to get them off the walls. Because I couldn't
 
Well its secured to the brick with Rawlbolts and fixed into timber on the bottom and they were all solid. I still added battons fixed up the sides and across the top and finished with a tube of tube of gripfill :lol:

The FEO coming around in the morning for my grant and inspection. Now i just have to try and decide on which cailbre im going to settle on, sleepless night ahead!
 
I'm in the process of installing my gun safe, however, i live in an old cottage and there isn't a straight or flush wall in the house :lol:

Would it be an issue if there is a small gap here and there down the side of the safe? I'm talking a few mm here and not cm's.

I'm fixing into brick and it wont be easily accessible. I guess i could even fix a bit of timber up the side to cover the gaps or am i overthinking it here?

Thanks!
Don’t overthink it, the key test is “Is it secure” if it’s bolted in place using good quality raw bolts or chemical anchors that’s the important part, combined with the fact that it’s not easily visible. I have mine bolted through the back using raw bolts and then some screws in to the floor boards. If enough force is used ultimately any cabinet fixing can be overcome, it’s about making it “Secure” at the time of inspection
 
Well its secured to the brick with Rawlbolts and fixed into timber on the bottom and they were all solid. I still added battons fixed up the sides and across the top and finished with a tube of tube of gripfill :lol:

The FEO coming around in the morning for my grant and inspection. Now i just have to try and decide on which cailbre im going to settle on, sleepless night ahead!
If you want to read loads of posts and some rants, ask on here which calibre you should get!!
 
Don’t overthink it, the key test is “Is it secure” if it’s bolted in place using good quality raw bolts or chemical anchors that’s the important part, combined with the fact that it’s not easily visible. I have mine bolted through the back using raw bolts and then some screws in to the floor boards. If enough force is used ultimately any cabinet fixing can be overcome, it’s about making it “Secure” at the time of inspection
That’s funny because for years in our then farmhouse (think old random stone built) my cabinet was loose on the wall. I had fixed it with rawlbolts but one came loose as I tightened it the last bit and another must have been into mortar. However I couldn’t get it off the wall (days before small angle grinder discs etc). The FEO swung on it door open for better grip. I had challenged him to get it off the wall. As I couldn’t get the bolts out to actually start again. So it stayed that way until I moved. Made a mess when I finally got it off the wall. However I doubt very much that removal will be the problem now. Avoiding anyone actually getting to the cabinet in the first place is the best defence in my mind. I have layers of security designed to do just that. But even the most secure vault is vulnerable to motivated attackers with the right tools and skills/will to use them.
 
Maybe just maybe - if the police keep up there end of the agreement we wouldn't have too go to such ridiculous lengths of security... imagine being and FEO and knowing a small gap for a crow bar is a risk 😲 if we knew what they knew huh?
 
am i overthinking it here?
I have a similar house and the same point was raised at one renewal a long time ago. I pointed out the if burglers had a crow and if wS flush to the plaster, then they'd just dig the plaster away until they could get behind it.
Thus the wee gaps presented no additional risk to the installation.

PS I've used chemical bolts. Much stronger than expanding bolts, which might split bricks, or block, when you can't be sure if you're in the middle.
 
I'm in the process of installing my gun safe, however, i live in an old cottage and there isn't a straight or flush wall in the house :lol:

Would it be an issue if there is a small gap here and there down the side of the safe? I'm talking a few mm here and not cm's.

I'm fixing into brick and it wont be easily accessible. I guess i could even fix a bit of timber up the side to cover the gaps or am i overthinking it here?

Thanks!
Chem fix all day long. best tip i can pass on is borrow a puffer to get the dust out of the holes (red brick is a ducker)
keep the studding out of any dust, make sure they a dry. say 12mm studding use a 14mm drill. clean holes out as above.

I put in 2/3rds of a hole of chem fix also some on the start of thread then turn the studding as you push it in the hole.

I put a piece of tape on the length I want sticking out then you wont get it in the threads... (no different to masking up a car)

Then leave it to cure and leave it some more lol
 
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Friend of mine got an ex Chubb bank safe. Some job! Free standing and no need to anchor at all. Cost about €2000.00 in total, delivered, fitted and resprayed in any RAL colour of his choice.



It's ultra strong & fire proof. Weighs approx 2 tonne. About 6ft" tall. No way anyone would get into it unless they had specialist tools and a sh1t load of time on their hands.
Mate of mine had the same only a double door version so even heavier, FEO asked if it was bolted down ffs…..😂
 
I have also attached cabinets to uneven walls. I just filled any resulting gaps with lime mortar and painted the wall and the mortar. You could never tell.

With an even floor or wall, just be careful not to 'rack' the cabinet. This is where the bolts pull the cabinet off square which can sometimes cause the doors not to close.
 
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Dont over think it. Mine is bolted to joists in the loft. Law says to take reasonable precautions not to build Fort Knox. My FLO just checked by ensuring no movement when given a good shake. However, i do understand some forces are more fussy (strict)
 
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