Knife sharpening

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digger9523

digger9523

Well-Known Member
How do folks,

After Sakowsm's thread about how hopeless he is at knife sharpening I've offered to do it for him.

I've started this thread as what Raymond is doing in the attached video is no different to how i sharpen my knives. I've tried the Lanskey system and just don't get on with it myself.

So for all you chaps that are turning knives into door wedges, have a look at this:

http://youtu.be/We1-CDNaSFs
 
Hi i have a buck vanguard that has two bevels and the makers recommend an angle of 13 to 16 degrees must be obtained, so i cant see how it can be achived doing it Raymonds way, has anyone has more views on this?
 
digger9523 said:
How do folks,

After Sakowsm's thread about how hopeless he is at knife sharpening I've offered to do it for him.

I've started this thread as what Raymond is doing in the attached video is no different to how i sharpen my knives. I've tried the Lanskey system and just don't get on with it myself.

So for all you chaps that are turning knives into door wedges, have a look at this:

http://youtu.be/We1-CDNaSFs
Click to expand...

I carry a set every where :lol:
 
I think Raymond's main supplier is this lot: Japanese Waterstones products from Axminster

As for degrees of angle for the Buck vanguard, you'll be able to do it Raymond's way, but you'll just have to keep an eye on it as you won't have as much area to play with. His knife is made of 01 tool steel that's 4mm thick, hence the reason he can have that high flat bevel. Part of the reason he designed it that way.

Also, just in case you didn't realise, there's a part 2 to the original video. Here it is: http://youtu.be/FPRiJ_YnSCI
 
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thanks for that advice Digger, maybe i could use some sort of packer under the flat of the knife blade as a guide to sharpen that second bevel on the vanguard and possibly all models in the Buck range.
 
ajr said:
thanks for that advice Digger, maybe i could use some sort of packer under the flat of the knife blade as a guide to sharpen that second bevel on the vanguard and possibly all models in the Buck range.
Click to expand...

I've seen angle guides before now made of plastic that sit at the end of the stone, you rest your blade against it and then push away into the stone keeping the blade at the angle the guide is set at. Wouldn't be too hard to make a wooden one i reckon.
 
Thought the wooden guide would blockup the stone maybe that guide to sharpen plane blades advertised on the web site you mentioned would do the trick?
 
Might do it mate, not sure if it can hold a knife blade though. I expect a google search will turn something up. If you've got the money, a Tormek wet grinder is an easy option, but they're pricey!
 
Just had a look at them and yes too pricey! Perhaps someone can come up with a suggestion?
 
When i suggested the wooden guide, i meant that it is a wedge shaped piece of wood or plastic that is sat at the end of the stone and that you rest the side of the knife against it, thus holding it at the desired angle. When you push off with the knife the wedge stays where it is and it's down to you to maintain the angle while you're pushing, so it won't clog up your stones because it doesn't move. Over time, the muscle memory builds up and you get to a point where you don't need the guide. I was always told 20 degrees was the ideal, not too narrow and not too steep.
 
oh i see now how it works, you explained that very well, the reason i said 13 to 16 degrees is that Buck recommends this angle on their web site.
 
The Knife in question has 'Scandi' grind, if I recall it will be around 25 degrees on the Mears knife. That will allow for a general purpose knife that has a strong edge but still able to perform well when skinning ect. ,I do the same grind on my blades normally but drop to 21 degrees which is better for working with deer. The method of sharpening will work for that grind, but what you must remember is that most comercial knifes are massed produced and have a hollow grind. It should also be remembered that there are alot of poor quality steel blades availabe cheaply but as with all things there is a trade off and they are difficult to sharpen or wont hold an edge. If you want to try sharpening a knife then I would suggest getting a 6 or 8 inch oil stone which wont be that expencive but use it with water and a small amount of washing up liquid pored directly onto the stone. Then imagine your trying to shave a tiny sliver off the stone for 10 swipes, then do the same on the other side. You dont need alot of pressure when doing this , if you do you will roll the edge over on the knife. Wash the stone after each use.

Then again....I use this for sharpening...just watch the fingers :shock::shock::shock::shock:
 
Last edited:
chickenman said:
The Knife in question has 'Scandi' grind, if I recall it will be around 25 degrees on the Mears knife. That will allow for a general purpose knife that has a strong edge but still able to perform well when skinning ect. ,I do the same grind on my blades normally but drop to 21 degrees which is better for working with deer.
Click to expand...
How did you come up with 21 degrees and how does it hold up against bone? I'd also be interested in your opinion on steels...
 
JabaliHunter said:
How did you come up with 21 degrees and how does it hold up against bone? I'd also be interested in your opinion on steels...
Click to expand...

Theres no and fast rule , grind at what-ever you like really. Ive done full flat grinds but like scandi grinds as faster to do, strong. The 21 degree was I did as a compromise between strength and sharpness for a few blanks I just ground. As for steel I only use 01 at the moment as it does the job. You can get lots of steels but its a complex subject and you need a temperature controlled forge to be able to get them to harden. I know my mate gets a really good grade of stainless forged that is the same steel Wilkinson Sword Survival knives are made from, BUT it comes in at a hefty price of around £35 for just a blank. that then has to be ground and turned into a knife so it ups the price a bit.
I might be doinf some of those blanks in the future and I am also going to get the guys at work to cold soak some of my blades in liquid Nitrogen for 24 hours. That should increase there durability a bit more.
 
I have only ever used oil stones and carborundum stones on knives.
the oil work better to hold the grit/metal. bit more viscous.

I do exactly the same method as the first video, learned from my father who learned from his.
I have never been overly concerned about getting a perfect 13degree angle!
You can gauge it pretty easily and get a consistent angle (more important!) with your thumb on the back of the knife. The good thing about the oil is that you dont grind a flat spot on the thumb against the stone!

I do this on all knives from wafer thin filleting Sabatier knives through to a very chunky Buck blade I have.
Do the kitchen knives about once every 4-6 months. they are used daily.
Sharpen the buck a bit more but it sees bones and branches!

oil stones (very fine grit) and carborundum (coarse and medium/fine two sided) are cheap as chips.
 
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