Anti-Climb Method Ideas For High Seats?

Two points:
1. Unlocking and removing some kind of physical barrier is likely to be noisy and difficult in the dark, and therefore disturbs any deer that may be nearby.
2. While old overweight Stalkers like me may struggle getting into a 'locked' high-seat, kids and teenager will not - they can climb in via the inside, or by way of a knees-up from a mate. It won't stop anybody getting in and messing around if they really want to.

Therefore I just limit the 'protection' to locked chains (against theft) and signage, and every time I am using a high seat check all is safe and stable, and ask other Stalkers who use my high seats to do the same. Anything wrong requires them to flag it up to me so we can repair/rectify the issue. Therefore a record of Stalks and High-seat use effectively becomes a record of high-seat checks. That should satisfy any H&S/Risk Audit. All my Landowners , including those who require strict RA/H&S procedures, are happy with that.
 
Two points:
1. Unlocking and removing some kind of physical barrier is likely to be noisy and difficult in the dark, and therefore disturbs any deer that may be nearby.
2. While old overweight Stalkers like me may struggle getting into a 'locked' high-seat, kids and teenager will not - they can climb in via the inside, or by way of a knees-up from a mate. It won't stop anybody getting in and messing around if they really want to.

Therefore I just limit the 'protection' to locked chains (against theft) and signage, and every time I am using a high seat check all is safe and stable, and ask other Stalkers who use my high seats to do the same. Anything wrong requires them to flag it up to me so we can repair/rectify the issue. Therefore a record of Stalks and High-seat use effectively becomes a record of high-seat checks. That should satisfy any H&S/Risk Audit. All my Landowners , including those who require strict RA/H&S procedures, are happy with that.
A stalker slumbering around in the dark walking to a high seat especially if the brief is for the client is "200 yards down the ride on the LEFT/RIGHT" will make enough noise These last couple of cold spells was like walking on egg shells x 10
if the requirements is what the op posted then get it done.
 
I used to look after masts and towers for a living, including all the associated H&S like anti-climb measures.

If you assess the area for likelihood, you can tailor your level of response. As has been said, between signage and any form of perimeter fence around the farm/estate, you’re pretty well covered.

This is all arbitrary if the landowner has insisted. In that case you have a few options-

Remove part or all of the ladder. Access is then via a moveable ladder. I’m not a fan of this as it introduces additional H&S risk for the user, and in a deer scenario is extra kit to lug around.

If the design lends itself, a lockable door/hatch to the actual seat area is a good option.

My preference though would be for the ladder guard style. Cheap and easy and can take many forms. Noise is a factor, so maybe hinged on one side and a padlock clasp on the other. Google ‘anti-climb tower ladder’ for ideas. I’d go wood rather than metal for cost and noise.

The H&S term you need to remember is “reasonably practicable”. Contrary to popular belief, HSE are not out for blood. If a real hazard exists and you’ve assessed and responded reasonably, you should be fine.

Scaffolding anti-climb guidance note (CON1 - 2018), is a good help in assessing risk and response for fixed ladders.
 
it's called sterling board and it's not waterproof.it will fall to bits if any moisture gets on it.i used to use it for temporary shuttering on site.you might be confusing it with marine ply.
yep probably right, i’ve had some out for nearly 3 years now and they are still good, but they are really sealed with varnish, i’ll check when out in the morning, :thumb:
 
it's called sterling board and it's not waterproof.it will fall to bits if any moisture gets on it.i used to use it for temporary shuttering on site.you might be confusing it with marine ply.
Apparently it is now. it wasn't when it first came out.
Test by my Father, some offcuts left outside the workshop for a few years yes years three or four iirc. the very edge was a little rough but you could have still used it.
I was told by my supplier that the resin used is now waterproof, the older glue wasn't.
 
Get a few old wasp hives and place it a visible spot but high enough for people not to see clearly with a few plastic wasps if you can find some. Add one of those motion sensor animal repellers with a buzzing noise for added effect. If possible add a few boards saying 'Danger - Hornets/ Wasps - Protected' and maybe a few laminated pictures of wasp injuries with a QR code to some wasp friends FB groups for the curious ones.

Wasp.webp
 
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Apparently it is now. it wasn't when it first came out.
Test by my Father, some offcuts left outside the workshop for a few years yes years three or four iirc. the very edge was a little rough but you could have still used it.
I was told by my supplier that the resin used is now waterproof, the older glue wasn't.
If you’re talking about OSB it’s ok for a while if just the face is exposed but if you get water on the edges it’ll still puff up and flake. It never goes back to normal.
Decent marine ply is actually quite rare nowadays and some suppliers (Bradfords) are selling stuff like “Far Eastern ply” which is not a good substitute for real marine ply.
WBP with poplar core and phenolic glue is better if you can’t get genuine marine ply.
I think Jewsons may possibly still supply Santa Catalina Marine ply if you need some.
Not cheap though!
 
If you’re talking about OSB it’s ok for a while if just the face is exposed but if you get water on the edges it’ll still puff up and flake. It never goes back to normal.
Decent marine ply is actually quite rare nowadays and some suppliers (Bradfords) are selling stuff like “Far Eastern ply” which is not a good substitute for real marine ply.
WBP with poplar core and phenolic glue is better if you can’t get genuine marine ply.
I think Jewsons may possibly still supply Santa Catalina Marine ply if you need some.
Not cheap though!
yes the very edge does "puff up" as you say. But for the purpose of blocking ladder access it will hardly be a problem. Like I said we had some pieces outside in the weather for years, and if you tried a little off the edges the rest was good enough to use.
I do agree re the Far Eastern ply is not the quality it should be in fact the quality of much of it seems to have gone downhill.
 
If you are using scaffold boards I think there should be some way to restrict sideways movement. One of the grounds I go on (not my perm) has many seats where the padlocks have seized so I just slide the board to one side and climb up the narrow rungs.
 
If you are using scaffold boards I think there should be some way to restrict sideways movement. One of the grounds I go on (not my perm) has many seats where the padlocks have seized so I just slide the board to one side and climb up the narrow rungs.
That's why you don't use just a single board if you want an effective barrier to unauthorised use.
It sounds like whoever is allowing you to shoot on their ground is neglecting their legal responsibility regarding safety to both you and others in a couple of ways. :stir:
 
I remember a while ago using a product that was made of recycled materials (plastic I think). and i believe it was used in pig pens/floors. It came in an 8' x 4' x 1/2"sheet and could be cut with standard circular saw. It was 100% waterproof and virtually indestructable and could be fixed using screws This could be cut and hinged on one side of the ladder and locked on the other, you probably would not have to cover the whole length of the ladder ie maybe a 2' section. Remember the HS&E use the rather loose term 'reasonably practicable'. I was always told that providing you have done your risk assessment and it is stated that physical barriers are in place to prevent unauthorised ladder access you should be ok. There is no specification for an anti access device. See links below you may have to copy and paste into your browser. You should get 4 x 600mm strips per sheet.


 
The trouble with recycled plastics is that while they can be excellent products for some applications and may be cheap when first introduced their cost quickly rises when they catch on.
 

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