Go & No-Go Gauges.

[Stalker62]

Actually my gauge does not require any bolt disassembly for the Mosin - if you look at the pictures in my earlier post you will see that the gauge has a cut-out to accommodate the extractor and a hole to do likewise for the firing pin.

Now.

I wish I had taken notice of this post before I dismantled the bolt on my M-N this afternoon.

Funny how these things run away with you is it not?

Not for the first time, did t'internet come to my rescue...

Sadly, not sure I can post the (rather helpful) video of some young chap in the USA helping out an old bloke in the UK...


All back together again...

 

[Stalker62]

 

[Foxyboy43]

Now.

I wish I had taken notice of this post before I dismantled the bolt on my M-N this afternoon.

Funny how these things run away with you is it not?

Not for the first time, did t'internet come to my rescue...

Video isn't playing but I imagine you fell foul of the Mosin bolt trap. The bolt pretty much falls apart once decocked but putting it back together can be a bit of a puzzle…..
Don’t forget to make sure the 2 little lines on the very back of the bolt align with the line on the back of the firing pin!

 

[Stalker62]

Don’t forget to make sure the 2 little lines on the very back of the bolt align with the line on the back of the firing pin!

They do, but that was purely accidental...

 

[Foxyboy43]

They do, but that was purely accidental...

With luck like that the Monthly Draw is a mere formality……

 

[Stalker62]

Sorry, even typing out the 'cut and paste' for the video is not allowing me to show it.

For those that need/want to see it:

https://

youtu.be/1wN6q15dzu8

 

[Tim.243]

Sorry, even typing out the 'cut and paste' for the video is not allowing me to show it.

For those that need/want to see it:

https://

youtu.be/1wN6q15dzu8

April 1st is getting close...

 

[jthyttin]

Actually my gauge does not require any bolt disassembly for the Mosin

The gauge does not magically remove the resistance that you have when closing the assembled bolt. Mosin bolt is kind of pecualiar, I don't know if you can assemble it without firing pin spring or do you have to find another way to keep the front piece in place and rotate it. If you remove trigger (or keep it pressed while operating bolt) the bolt handle will be actually assisted closing.

Luckily this all is kind of academic, since nobody wants nowadays to do any real accurate stuff with MN. Safety checks are completely fine with assembled bolt.

 

[Foxyboy43]

“since nobody wants nowadays to do any real accurate stuff with MN.”

How very dare you! Note my avatar poopy pants!

I certainly do!! And do does did a certain other gentleman!

 

[mike243]

This question comes about thirty minutes too late really.

Has anyone got them?

Has anyone used them?

Did they improve your life?


View attachment 302009View attachment 302010


I have just ordered three sets from the USA, in:-

.308
.243
.303

I fully expect them to change my life for the better - and lets face it, it needs to...

what will you be using the "GO, NO GO" gauges for

 

[Stalker62]

what will you be using the "GO, NO GO" gauges for

1. To simply check the headspace in my older (100 years+) rifles.
2. To add to my collection of things I measure things with.
3. To make me look like I know what I am doing, when it comes to taking about 'headspace'.
4. To help 'kick-start' the economy post C19 pandemic.

I would add, that reason 1. will lead to further examination of the bolts of those rifles, which will lead to their disassembling, cleaning and then the necessity of taking those bolts to a gunsmith for reassembling.

I am in the process of sourcing the tools to help me do so. (Check out the 'WANTED" section)

 

[Foxyboy43]

1. To simply check the headspace in my older (100 years+) rifles.
2. To add to my collection of things I measure things with.
3. To make me look like I know what I am doing, when it comes to taking about 'headspace'.
4. To help 'kick-start' the economy post C19 pandemic.

I would add, that reason 1. will lead to further examination of the bolts of those rifles, which will lead to their disassembling, cleaning and then the necessity of taking those bolts to a gunsmith for reassembling.

I am in the process of sourcing the tools to help me do so. (Check out the 'WANTED" section)

Excellent response! Well done sir though I would assume that was in reverse order…..

 

[mike243]

1. To simply check the headspace in my older (100 years+) rifles.
2. To add to my collection of things I measure things with.
3. To make me look like I know what I am doing, when it comes to taking about 'headspace'.
4. To help 'kick-start' the economy post C19 pandemic.

I would add, that reason 1. will lead to further examination of the bolts of those rifles, which will lead to their disassembling, cleaning and then the necessity of taking those bolts to a gunsmith for reassembling.

I am in the process of sourcing the tools to help me do so. (Check out the 'WANTED" section)

what can be done if the "no go" gauge goes, surely you could spend a small fortune on incramentally longer gauges until you finally find a length that doesn't go

 

[Stalker62]

what can be done if the "no go" gauge goes, surely you could spend a small fortune on incramentally longer gauges until you finally find a length that doesn't go

That does sort of make sense.

The incremental sets (about $550) if money is no object, will give you an 'exact' measurement for reloading.

 

[Foxyboy43]

what can be done if the "no go" gauge goes, surely you could spend a small fortune on incramentally longer gauges until you finally find a length that doesn't go

See post #34.
and

Firewerks Headspace Gauges - Firewerks

firewerks.net

 

[jthyttin]

Stalker, I'm not sure you understand what the gauges are for. They don't offer anything for reloader (bar the barrel change I mentioned previously). They're meant to be used when building a rifle or changing barrel or bolt (or other parts that affect headspace). If the headspace is out, the rifle is more or less dangerous to use and causes extra wear&tear on brass (unless you circumvent it). If the headspace keeps growing, the rifle is waiting for catastrophic failure.

As a reloader you can adjust the dies (or change shell holders) and fit the brass to your chamber. This would also work around headspace issues, but I'd rather get the headspace fixed so the rifle would be safe with all ammunition. With rimmed and belted cartridges fitting to chamber means you abandon the regular headspacing on rim/belt and start to headspace on shoulder like rimless.

 

[Stalker62]

As a reloader you can adjust the dies (or change shell holders) and fit the brass to your chamber. This would also work around headspace issues, but I'd rather get the headspace fixed so the rifle would be safe with all ammunition.

Thank you for your comments.

My question is this. How does one know you have 'headspace issues' without resorting to measuring the headspace - other that catastrophic failures with either the rife or the ammunition?

I understand (I think) that headspace is measured from x-y.

Where x is the bolt face and y is a datum point on a particular cartridge.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Thank you for your comments.

My question is this. How does one know you have 'headspace issues' without resorting to measuring the headspace - other that catastrophic failures with either the rife or the ammunition?

I understand (I think) that headspace is measured from x-y.

Where x is the bolt face and y is a datum point on a particular cartridge.

The trick is finding the issue before it becomes a real problem. Two of the more obvious clues are protruding primers and/or excessively stretched cases both of which should be identified through checking as key parts of your reloading process. This might help.

Dealing with Headspace by Todd Spotti - Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment

Reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers, custom dies, bullet casting equipment, powder measuring and weighing equipment, bullet seating dies

www.redding-reloading.com

 

[User00040]

My question is this. How does one know you have 'headspace issues' without resorting to measuring the headspace - other that catastrophic failures with either the rife or the ammunition?

Headspace too short- bolt won't close on brass or very stiff (keep in mind this would be the rim thickness, not shoulder dimensions on a 303).

Headspace too long- brass is difficult to extract due to it 'flowing' forwards into the overly generous chamber area. Again, keep in mind the .303 Lee Enfield was a military rifle designed to overcome difficulties with poor ammunition quality. Even if the brass does flow forward somewhat, you are headspacing off the rim.

What models of Enfields do you have? Are you aware that headpace can't really change unless the dimensions have somehow shifted (usually from poor modification, not use). The Lee Enfields all have beefy rear locking lugs anyway so unlikely they have worn or moved? Or have the rifles been rebarreled at some stage?

I mean, they made different bolt head sizes for the No.4 for a reason. Much easier to adjust headspace this way vs. chambering each barrel to an exact specification which would require a lot more expenditure with regards to tooling/reamer wear: No 4 & No5 Bolt Heads (Update)

I think another purchase is in order...

 

[Foxyboy43]

Headspace too short- bolt won't close on brass or very stiff (keep in mind this would be the rim thickness, not shoulder dimensions on a 303).

Headspace too long- brass is difficult to extract due to it 'flowing' forwards into the overly generous chamber area. Again, keep in mind the .303 Lee Enfield was a military rifle designed to overcome difficulties with poor ammunition quality. Even if the brass does flow forward somewhat, you are headspacing off the rim.

What models of Enfields do you have? Are you aware that headpace can't really change unless the dimensions have somehow shifted (usually from poor modification, not use). The Lee Enfields all have beefy rear locking lugs anyway so unlikely they have worn or moved? Or have the rifles been rebarreled at some stage?

I mean, they made different bolt head sizes for the No.4 for a reason. Much easier to adjust headspace this way vs. chambering each barrel to an exact specification which would require a lot more expenditure with regards to tooling/reamer wear: No 4 & No5 Bolt Heads (Update)

I think another purchase is in order...

View attachment 302639

I bet he has it already…….