Redding Comp neck sizing die

[Woodlander]

I’m setting up a competition neck sizing die, which has a bushing as well as micrometer adjustment. On the non micrometer S type dies, the bushing is set up so as it has slight movement, just a barely perceptible rattle.
On the comp die, with the die neck tightened all the way, the bushing seems to move up and down quite considerably.
Is this the correct way to set it up?
Thanks

 

[jb1]

Thats normal, just checked mine and there is a fair amount of movement.
stripped it down while i was at it.

 

[Woodlander]

Thats normal, just checked mine and there is a fair amount of movement.
stripped it down while i was at it.

Thank you for that.
I’m just setting up and hadn’t started sizing yet, so really wanted to know about the amount of movement with the bushing before I started.
Much appreciated
Cheers
Paul

 

[Klenchblaize]

1. Compress the die’s floating sleeve so it contacts the base of the die in horizontal orientation.
2. While holding the depressed sleeve wind the micrometer in until it stops or starts to push the sleeve from its captive position.
3. Insert die in press after backing off the lock ring.
4. Lower press handle and hold down while winding down die until it bottoms out on the die base and not the sleeve.
5. Back off die by a fraction and set lock ring.
6. Back off micrometer dial by a few turns.
7. Commence neck resizing.

Hope yours is capable of sizing to the shoulder juncture!

ATB

K

 

[jb1]

The Redding neck bushing dies don't resize anything but the neck. No real need to have the press to cam on these dies, these dies come in sets of 3, body die, neck and bullet seating die.
If anyone can tell me why it needs to cam then fine but i could never understand why as it only alters neck. Or is it that i have the bushing die and its different ?

 

[Woodlander]

The Redding neck bushing dies don't resize anything but the neck. No real need to have the press to cam on these dies, these dies come in sets of 3, body die, neck and bullet seating die.
If anyone can tell me why it needs to cam then fine but i could never understand why as it only alters neck. Or is it that i have the bushing die and its different ?

The explanation given on one of the vids I watched was one of consistency. When it cams over it is sizing/seating no more, or no less than than the previous cases.

 

[Kiwiguy]

The explanation given on one of the vids I watched was one of consistency. When it cams over it is sizing/seating no more, or no less than than the previous cases.

Have you read the instructions that came with the Redding Competition Die set?

Redding clearly state that there should be no contact between the neck sizing die and the shell holder. The force exerted in a cam over die set up will ruin your Competition die.

 

[DVS1]

Worth having a look at Panhandle Precision and Sam Willard, he does multiple videos on how to set up these dies etc, I often rematch just to keep my old brain fresh

Panhandle Precision

 

[jb1]

Have you read the instructions that came with the Redding Competition Die set?

Redding clearly state that there should be no contact between the neck sizing die and the shell holder. The force exerted in a cam over die set up will ruin your Competition die.

I've not seen the instructions for so long nore had I ever altered the from 1st setting it up, apart from alternative seating depths. But couldn't understand why klenchblaize and woodland both had posts about similar die issues. But not having the S dies that maybe the difference with me not understanding.

 

[Woodlander]

Have you read the instructions that came with the Redding Competition Die set?

Redding clearly state that there should be no contact between the neck sizing die and the shell holder. The force exerted in a cam over die set up will ruin your Competition die.

I have to admit, I watched a video by ‘Long Range Only’, he seemed to know what he was talking about and recommends a light cam over for neck sizing and seating, a little more for body sizing. I should maybe peruse the instructions that came with the dies
The basic S type are relatively simple to set up, the micrometer Competition sizing die not so.
I’m just looking for as much information as I can.
Thanks

 

[jb1]

Don't forget about the Allen screw adjustments via the the centre of the micrometer head. This is used for zeroing the micrometer, it moves the bushing/stem/holder independently.

 

[Woodlander]

Could this explain why for some reason it’s not sizing the cases at all?
Seems like the case is pushing the bushing up, rather than slipping inside and being sized. I’ll have a play.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Does your die have a decapping rod? If it does the grub screw referred to in post 11 is to lock this rod at the right height for removing a spent primer. It does not permit the ‘zeroing’ of the micrometer’s etched markings once you’ve determined the amount of neck sizing required.

K

 

[Woodlander]

Does your die have a decapping rod? If it does the grub screw referred to in post 11 is to lock this rod at the right height for removing a spent primer. It does not permit the ‘zeroing’ of the micrometer’s etched markings once you’ve determined the amount of neck sizing required.

K

I de-cap separately, so I removed the pin.
This is very confusing. Neck sized some older brass and still a bullet slipped in and out, assumed the case wasn’t entering the bushing. Applied liberal amounts of Lee lube and seemingly the neck is entering the bushing about the designated 90%, shown by the lube being pushed down the case neck. Tried some different brass and this was sized and bullet would not push in with finger pressure. I’m using a .267 bushing.
Could it be spring back from un-annealed cases, or just need a smaller bushing, or a combination?

 

[Klenchblaize]

As you say, it could be not enough sizing allied to case spring-back but you’ll have to experiment I’m afraid. If you fully seat a bullet does it fall out and if not can you pull it with your fingers?

I have the above problem with my inherited PPC brass that is nothing to do with the amount of neck being resized but either crap brass or the wrong sized bushing.

As for removing the decapping bin this will have no affect on your ability to size 90% or more of the neck. Do however remove the grub screw as it may work its way down and fall into void.

K

 

[jb1]

The comp die does not decap, and you need a smaller bush.

If your using the comp die to resize your necks you really must stick to 1 one batch of brass AND neck turn, using a mixture of brass with difference in brass thickness will only create problems and definitely inconsistent neck tension negating the reason totally for using these dies, you may as well use standard RCBS dies.
And then of course regular annealing.

 

[Klenchblaize]

The comp die does not decap …..

Please see instructions from stage #9 to #12:

K

 

[jb1]

Please see instructions from stage #9 to #12:
View attachment 344214
K

Oh Dear how embarrassing,
just looked at mine again and the de-capping rod is removed and in the box, its been out since day 1. Very sorry for my mistake, thats the 1st this year so not a bad record so far.
I've given myself a slap.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Oh Dear how embarrassing,
just looked at mine again and the de-capping rod is removed and in the box, its been out since day 1. Very sorry for my mistake, thats the 1st this year so not a bad record so far.
I've given myself a slap.

Just one should do!

I appreciate your comments regarding neck turning. I plan to do this with new brass but it will be more of a clean-up rather than hitting a pre-determined measurement. Clearly the cases will all start with the same neck thickness with this approach and allow me to purchase the most appropriate bushing.

All the best for the New Year.

K

 

[jb1]

I was gobsmacked at the cost of the dies £300 + i paid £87 .