www.leprevo.co.uk
Morning cottisDon't buy a starter kit. They are crap.
If you are the sort of person who can hang a shelf with ease or find solutions to practical problems without issue, whilst also having high standards and striving towards perfection, leatherwork could be for you. If you are not those things, I would not bother as you will make crap stuff and it will be unfulfilling and frustrating.
The basics of what you need are:
Very sharp knife and the ability to sharpen it properly. Learning to measure and cut accurately is the first step. You can use a variety of knives but I like scalpel type knives for their fine accuracy. I also use skiving blades and half moon knives to cut larger pieces of leather more roughly. A scratch awl or some type of sharpish tool for marking out leather templates. And a metal ruler of some type. A level of dexterity to prevent injury is also useful.
You will need an edge beveller or 3. Differing sizes potentially if you are using different gauges of leather for different applications. Learn how to bevel at the correct angle, how to sand the edges using different grades of paper and how to burnish edges using water (or other gums) and a piece of hard wood.
Something to mark and create holes in leather in order to be able to saddle stitch them together. And some saddlers harness needles. Buy John James Saddlers Harness needles. They last ages. Stitching chisels for marking out holes and a stitching awl for fully punching through leather. You can buy mawls and similar made for purpose items but I actually use a handheld sledge on its side to punch holes. It offers a large surface area and is weighty enough to not need to use brute force. Some things you can scrimp on whilst you really want proper tools for other things. I mean you could use a fork to mark out holes and a nail and hammer to drive holes in leather but the finished stitching will not look as well as if you use a diamond awl.
Thread - Different sizes depending on strength required and the fineness or not of the materials being used. Thicker for heavy duty, finer for lighter materials.
Leather type is vital. You want vegetable tanned leather. That is the best quality and cuts and burnishes the best. Chrome tanned does not burnish as well and all other "genuine" type leathers are totally crap and should be ignored. The "handle" of leather (how rigid/floppy it is) should be considered for the application. Firmer handled leather is better for goods that will see robust use while soft handled leather is easier to work with but with being more supple, will offer less robustness and will lose form quicker. A belt for example you would want a firm handled bridle leather like that made by Sedgewick or similar. A ladies handbag, something far more supple maybe. And then all sorts inbetween.
A Stitching pony is very useful to hold your work while you stitch. Not vital I suppose, i started without one but very quickly realised that it was a great idea. You can get them very cheap and cheap is fine for hobby leatherworkers. It is one area where I scrimp.
Glue. Subjective but I like Intercom Ecostick 1816B. There are tons of others. Mostly they all work. Definitely an area worth spending on in my view.
That is what I would start with. I would not even bother trying to make something to start with. Just buy some cheap veg tanned offcuts from ebay around the 2-2.5mm sort of gauge and cut some pieces to identical sizes, rough up the edges to be glued, apply glue, let it dry, learn to put pieces together accurately, then mark out stitching, punch or awl through, bang it in the pony and learn to saddle stitch. Bevel edges, sand, burnish etc and concentrate on fit and finish. Once you are happy with what you are doing, start designing what you want to make and go from there. The learning curve is very quick and I would say the most important thing is standards really. As long as you refuse to end up with a sub standard piece, you will quickly get to the point of making stuff that is better than the mass produced crap you can buy that is made from inferior materials.
Making mistakes will happen and is infuriating to begin with but in time you can rectify mistakes somewhat rather than having to start again but no leatherworker has never chucked stuff away.
There are a few suppliers. Some advertise on ebay and also have their own websites. Tools are easy to buy, leather less so as ideally you want to be able to handle it first but that is rarely possible unless you live close to a supplier/tannery. So go with leather thickness, leather type and feedback and reviews. I wouldn't really recommend anyone over another. I have taken a chance on some stuff and been disappointed whilst other times I have got absolute bargains.
If you catch the bug, you can start spending a lot of money on splitting machines, skivers, presses and all sorts. Like most hobbies it can start taking over life.
Tuition wise, Youtube is your friend. I recall watching people making knife sheaths and wallets and belts and so on and so forth. You can get books but I prefer to watch what is happening and then replicate it. You will never exhaust the leather videos on Youtube. They seem to be infinite. They will show you different ways to finish your work, how to hide stitching, how to cut corners and will show you good and bad work. You will work out which bits of info work for you and will take snippets from each example you watch and will end up with your own style.
Best of luck.
I think I’ve made a good number of the mistakes above and lack time / skills.Don't buy a starter kit. They are crap.
If you are the sort of person who can hang a shelf with ease or find solutions to practical problems without issue, whilst also having high standards and striving towards perfection, leatherwork could be for you. If you are not those things, I would not bother as you will make crap stuff and it will be unfulfilling and frustrating.
The basics of what you need are:
Very sharp knife and the ability to sharpen it properly. Learning to measure and cut accurately is the first step. You can use a variety of knives but I like scalpel type knives for their fine accuracy. I also use skiving blades and half moon knives to cut larger pieces of leather more roughly. A scratch awl or some type of sharpish tool for marking out leather templates. And a metal ruler of some type. A level of dexterity to prevent injury is also useful.
You will need an edge beveller or 3. Differing sizes potentially if you are using different gauges of leather for different applications. Learn how to bevel at the correct angle, how to sand the edges using different grades of paper and how to burnish edges using water (or other gums) and a piece of hard wood.
Something to mark and create holes in leather in order to be able to saddle stitch them together. And some saddlers harness needles. Buy John James Saddlers Harness needles. They last ages. Stitching chisels for marking out holes and a stitching awl for fully punching through leather. You can buy mawls and similar made for purpose items but I actually use a handheld sledge on its side to punch holes. It offers a large surface area and is weighty enough to not need to use brute force. Some things you can scrimp on whilst you really want proper tools for other things. I mean you could use a fork to mark out holes and a nail and hammer to drive holes in leather but the finished stitching will not look as well as if you use a diamond awl.
Thread - Different sizes depending on strength required and the fineness or not of the materials being used. Thicker for heavy duty, finer for lighter materials.
Leather type is vital. You want vegetable tanned leather. That is the best quality and cuts and burnishes the best. Chrome tanned does not burnish as well and all other "genuine" type leathers are totally crap and should be ignored. The "handle" of leather (how rigid/floppy it is) should be considered for the application. Firmer handled leather is better for goods that will see robust use while soft handled leather is easier to work with but with being more supple, will offer less robustness and will lose form quicker. A belt for example you would want a firm handled bridle leather like that made by Sedgewick or similar. A ladies handbag, something far more supple maybe. And then all sorts inbetween.
A Stitching pony is very useful to hold your work while you stitch. Not vital I suppose, i started without one but very quickly realised that it was a great idea. You can get them very cheap and cheap is fine for hobby leatherworkers. It is one area where I scrimp.
Glue. Subjective but I like Intercom Ecostick 1816B. There are tons of others. Mostly they all work. Definitely an area worth spending on in my view.
That is what I would start with. I would not even bother trying to make something to start with. Just buy some cheap veg tanned offcuts from ebay around the 2-2.5mm sort of gauge and cut some pieces to identical sizes, rough up the edges to be glued, apply glue, let it dry, learn to put pieces together accurately, then mark out stitching, punch or awl through, bang it in the pony and learn to saddle stitch. Bevel edges, sand, burnish etc and concentrate on fit and finish. Once you are happy with what you are doing, start designing what you want to make and go from there. The learning curve is very quick and I would say the most important thing is standards really. As long as you refuse to end up with a sub standard piece, you will quickly get to the point of making stuff that is better than the mass produced crap you can buy that is made from inferior materials.
Making mistakes will happen and is infuriating to begin with but in time you can rectify mistakes somewhat rather than having to start again but no leatherworker has never chucked stuff away.
There are a few suppliers. Some advertise on ebay and also have their own websites. Tools are easy to buy, leather less so as ideally you want to be able to handle it first but that is rarely possible unless you live close to a supplier/tannery. So go with leather thickness, leather type and feedback and reviews. I wouldn't really recommend anyone over another. I have taken a chance on some stuff and been disappointed whilst other times I have got absolute bargains.
If you catch the bug, you can start spending a lot of money on splitting machines, skivers, presses and all sorts. Like most hobbies it can start taking over life.
Tuition wise, Youtube is your friend. I recall watching people making knife sheaths and wallets and belts and so on and so forth. You can get books but I prefer to watch what is happening and then replicate it. You will never exhaust the leather videos on Youtube. They seem to be infinite. They will show you different ways to finish your work, how to hide stitching, how to cut corners and will show you good and bad work. You will work out which bits of info work for you and will take snippets from each example you watch and will end up with your own style.
Best of luck.
At times I do and you will see the little Yellow trade member thing next to my username when I do but at present, I am afraid I am not currently doing any work. Too busy with other things right now.I think I’ve made a good number of the mistakes above and lack time / skills.
Cottis do you sell your work on here? Also wonder if you can make items for folks? Can I message you?
Best regards,
Hayduke
Quick up date guys
Been scouring the net for proper steel and hopefully British made leather work tools
Have ordered ( probably OTT ) a set of cutting tools/knives from a company as per pic
Which appear to be what I’m looking for.
Next part is get the tools/ accessories I will use most, I have a multi angle small vice, going to make a scribe out of an old Braddle this morning, cutting boardI have here, apart from sewing cord, needles etc
Anyone got an idea on a must have tool not already mentioned
Champher tool to thin edges
Cord sewing hole
A while back a friend of mine asked for 4 muntjac skins to re cover his bongo drums he prepared / cured them all himself and they worked brilliantly but he said the skin is very tough and has one left over all treated and hairless, would that be any good for practicing or any use for small ammo draw string bags ???
Cheers
Phil

Hi Willie GunnFirstly, well done for giving leatherwork a try. I do it more as a means of relaxation than anything else, so have made all the mistakes @Cottis mentions above, including the part where "you will make crap stuff and it will be unfulfilling and frustrating"! I am still very much in the rank amateur bracket, but have got to the point where it is fulfilling and enjoyable, even if some of what I produce still looks crap!
Most of my tools I've sourced either from eBay over the years or from visits to the US (which sadly I haven't done for a while). I've gradually built up a selection of tools - inevitably with quite a few in the "interesting" rather than the "useful" category.However I enjoy restoring old tools into a usable condition, so to me it's all part of the fun. From experience I've learned not to waste money on cheap new tools, so most of mine now are from the likes of James Dixon, CS Osborne, Geo Barnsley and Vergez Blanchard. In particular I find good quality stitching chisels/pricking irons and punches (round, oval, crew and pippin) make a big difference, if nothing else in terms of reducing the frustration. I use a small Thor rawhide mallet with my punches, with a self sealing mat underneath. For cutting I prefer the half-moon or round knives, though they can be made scary-sharp and take some getting used to. The most frustrating thing has been when I've needed things to attach things like snap-fasteners, eyelets or grommets to leather. I've tried all the cheap Amazon examples and finally ended up with as combination of Maun pliers and an American Tag lever punch.
When buying new stuff I've gradually settled on a few suppliers that I know won't disappoint me - including Identity Leathercraft, Artisan Leather, Beamhouse Leather and Abbey England.
Did you get hold of a stitching pony?
I have one going spare that is similar to the below if it's of interest? In the version I have the clamp is located in the middle, so that you can sit with the clamp between your legs and it is held in place by the weight of your legs on the base. I can take a photo of mine if you're interested (the stitching pony, not my legs)? I replaced it with the more traditional long style of stitching pony, which I get on better with.
View attachment 366519
I've sent you a PMHi Willie Gunn
Thanks for the info, so far I’ve spoken to Artisan and ordered of off grorge Barnsley who we’re brilliantI haven’t as yet got the stitching pony if you’ve have a spare one I could buy off you that would be great
Cheers
Phil
YepDon't do it!
You will get the bug
Me as most brought cheap tools from eBay because I did not want to shell out a lot of cash just in case I did not
Like it, the difference is you cannot achieve good results with cheap tools simple as that, which I also found out
They key here is practice on scraps as mentioned above, I was buying veg tan leather by the foot and worked out expensive, I then started looking at the tannerys and you can buy a veg tanned tooling shoulder for around 80 quid
You can make plenty of sheaths / bullet pouches ect
I ended up buying most of my tools from china, company called WUTA and a few others ,
Reasonable money and good tools
There are hundreds of leather artisans on u tube and tips and tricks
The leather projects are endless, I have just made 3 pencil cases for my Grandkids
And had fun making them
Good luck and out some picks up with your projects