Reloading 375 H&H: What Am I Missing?

[StephenJD]

Firstly, I’m not a reloader so please go gently with me… But, if the below holds true, I *might* learn to become one.

Bear with me…

A box of 20 x Federal factory ammunition loaded with 300grn Swift A Frame = £137.95 and with a 3-6 month wait (per conversation with my trusted RFD who called Viking to enquire on my behalf yesterday) so £6.90 per round or £689.75 per 100. Cost may also increase over that 3-6 months, which would be passed on to me.

Or, according to Reloading Solutions’ website this morning:

100 x Norma brass cases = £222 (£111/50)
1kg tub of Vhit N140 = £120 (assume up to 220 loads at up to 4.5g / 69grn to make the maths simple, noting that this us above the max load for the projectile & powder combo according the Vhit manual [65.9] but allows for a few grains of “wastage” per round if such a thing exists)
100 x 300grn Swift A-Frame projectiles = £244 (£122/50)
100 x RWS Large Magnum Rifle primers = £20

Which is equivalent to £5.40 per round or £540.35 per 100, a saving of just under £150 compared to the same quantity of the Federal factory stuff.

For the second 100, I could presumably re-use the now once-fired brass saving me £2.22 per round or £222 for the batch which is now £370 less than factory. So, over 200 rounds, I’ve theoretically saved >£520 vs factory.

Now, clearly, as a non-reloader I don’t currently have any kit at all so would need to lay out for that but what am I missing in the above that means I would be at break even after 200-300 rounds (I have only a limited idea of how much a reloading set up would cost from scratch but that would seem to cover a pretty high end set up)?

(How long it would take me to get through 100 rounds of premium big game ammunition, let alone 200+, is another question of course…)

 

[NP435]

Firstly, I’m not a reloader so please go gently with me… But, if the below holds true, I *might* learn to become one.

Bear with me…

A box of 20 x Federal factory ammunition loaded with 300grn Swift A Frame = £137.95 and with a 3-6 month wait (per conversation with my trusted RFD who called Viking to enquire on my behalf yesterday) so £6.90 per round or £689.75 per 100. Cost may also increase over that 3-6 months, which would be passed on to me.

Or, according to Reloading Solutions’ website this morning:

100 x Norma brass cases = £222 (£111/50)
1kg tub of Vhit N140 = £120 (assume up to 220 loads at up to 4.5g / 69grn to make the maths simple, noting that this us above the max load for the projectile & powder combo according the Vhit manual [65.9] but allows for a few grains of “wastage” per round if such a thing exists)
100 x 300grn Swift A-Frame projectiles = £244 (£122/50)
100 x RWS Large Magnum Rifle primers = £20

Which is equivalent to £5.40 per round or £540.35 per 100, a saving of just under £150 compared to the same quantity of the Federal factory stuff.

For the second 100, I could presumably re-use the now once-fired brass saving me £2.22 per round or £222 for the batch which is now £370 less than factory. So, over 200 rounds, I’ve theoretically saved >£520 vs factory.

Now, clearly, as a non-reloader I don’t currently have any kit at all so would need to lay out for that but what am I missing in the above that means I would be at break even after 200-300 rounds (I have only a limited idea of how much a reloading set up would cost from scratch but that would seem to cover a pretty high end set up)?

(How long it would take me to get through 100 rounds of premium big game ammunition, let alone 200+, is another question of course…)

I don't reload as a primary cost saving measure, the learning process and versatility I enjoy. Plus, if I have the makings, I have ammo. It may cost somewhat less per shot but I shoot more. There is a certain satisfaction in producing quality ammo and taking game with that and a single shot rifle.

 

[Stalker62]

(How long it would take me to get through 100 rounds of premium big game ammunition, let alone 200+, is another question of course…)

If you are minded to re-load (don't), then the .375 is not (in my opinion) a great round to do so.

The .375 is not a 'plinking' round. You will have had enough after three rounds.

Zero it - put it in the cabinet - wait to go on Safari.

Go on Safari.

You will not feel any recoil on Safari.

Take factory ammunition on Safari.

Some Outfitters will not let you shoot home-loaded ammunition - it's a matter of insurance.

I bought 100 rounds of factory .375 ammunition a life-time ago.

I still have 37 rounds remaining.

You have been warned.

 

[StephenJD]

I don't reload as a primary cost saving measure, the learning process and versatility I enjoy. Plus, if I have the makings, I have ammo. It may cost somewhat less per shot but I shoot more. There is a certain satisfaction in producing quality ammo and taking game with that and a single shot rifle.

Absolutely. My prior shooting has all been in “vanilla” calibres (308 Win etc) and my RFD seems to always carry a good stock of ammunition that my rifle “likes” so I’ve never really had to consider it before but availability (or lack thereof) of factory ammunition in this, and other large calibres, is certainly another practical consideration.

I have a fairly analytical mind so I think the precision of reloading (at least as I understand it) appeals to me, as well as the satisfaction element that you mention.

That being said, I need another hobby like I need a hole in the head so, with the likely extended time needed to break even with 308, I’d always thought of it as a “nice to have” and something that I might get to one day. But now, there seems to be a compelling financial case to be made for accelerating that (again, unless I’m being massively naïve with my assumptions…)

 

[StephenJD]

If you are minded to re-load (don't), then the .375 is not (in my opinion) a great round to do so.

The .375 is not a 'plinking' round. You will have had enough after three rounds.

Zero it - put it in the cabinet - wait to go on Safari.

Go on Safari.

You will not feel any recoil on Safari.

Take factory ammunition on Safari.

Some Outfitters will not let you shoot home-loaded ammunition - it's a matter of insurance.

I bought 100 rounds of factory .375 ammunition a life-time ago.

I still have 37 rounds remaining.

You have been warned.

All very fair points indeed…thank you. This is exactly the sort of advice I need to bring me back from the precipice…!

 

[jthyttin]

100 x 300grn Swift A-Frame projectiles = £244 (£122/50)

And further savings if you use something less expensive (and probly at least as good).

Norma Oryx and Woodleigh come into mind, Oryx is listed £73.50 per 50 in UK and Woodleigh should be more available now that they are at least somewhat recovered from the factory fire incident. Neither is from US so no re-export control, and you should be able to order from continent (of course there are fees related to import, but you cannot even order US bullets).

 

[jthyttin]

The .375 is not a 'plinking' round. You will have had enough after three rounds.

Zero it - put it in the cabinet - wait to go on Safari.

I know UK officials put sometimes silly rules to larger calibre rifles, but the above is somewhat sure way of creating problems.

What you want to do is to find cheaper bullets, maybe load them down a little, and practice with the DG rifle. Having fired few shots, years before, is a sure way to introduce problems on safari (especially when your reason for not firing the rifle is that 3rds is enough...)

 

[Stalker62]

Having fired few shots, years before, is a sure way to introduce problems on safari (especially when your reason for not firing the rifle is that 3rds is enough...)

Forgive me.

My post was tongue in cheek.

For the avoidance of doubt.

I own and shoot a .375.
I re-load for my .375.
I practice with my .375 (with my home-loads).
I shoot deer in the UK with my .375 (with factory ammunition).
I take my .375 to Africa (with factory ammunition) and shoot stuff out there.

 

[StephenJD]

And further savings if you use something less expensive (and probly at least as good).

Norma Oryx and Woodleigh come into mind, Oryx is listed £73.50 per 50 in UK and Woodleigh should be more available now that they are at least somewhat recovered from the factory fire incident. Neither is from US so no re-export control, and you should be able to order from continent (of course there are fees related to import, but you cannot even order US bullets).

Yes, I had seen similar prices for Oryx (RS has them at £76 for example) and they are certainly, at least from the reading that I’ve done so far, highly regarded as an alternative to the A Frames.

 

[8x57]

With the larger cartridges if you want to shoot more than the odd round once or twice a year reloading using careful purchasing does make economic sense, but only if you already have the majority of reloading equipment. I have a 9.3x74R and there is no way that I could justify the horrific cost of buying more than the odd box of commercial ammunition every leap year. Reloading makes the cost of shooting this cartridge bearable.

 

[jthyttin]

My post was tongue in cheek.

Wouldn't have responded, but since OP reacted to your post I chose to take it literally.

 

[8x57]

From comments that I have read from professional hunters there actually are people who turn up on safari having only ever shot 3 rounds through their large calibre rifles. I've also read that some even get others to zero their rifles for them so haven't actually shot the big bores themselves before arrival at camp.

 

[Jagdmatch]

I shoot my .375 a fair amount, and other heavy bullet calibres. It is not cheap but PPU is not too bad at around £230 per 100 which is a good source of brass. Bullets are sensible if you search around or buy MMEs 300 grain offering and do the relaxing route
The point is you do need to practice and adapt to the recoil and knowing where it’s zeroed and the effect of different ranges with your chosen load. I would just buy 100 rounds of PPU, save 40 and shoot the rest
and reconsider the reloading in 12 months time. If you are an NRA member look for Short Range Heavy Bullet on their website.

 

[cjm1066]

If you can find a Lee Loader here is one in 270 Lee Loader for about £40 you are sorted if the dipper gives you a charge you want. You might get several rounds out of a case, but the Lee only neck sizes, if a case jams on a safari it might cost you a once in a lifetime trophy or worse if you annoy a buffalo.

A set of dies is similar money for full length resizing then a press and a set of scales and a de burring tool.

Then the cases stretchs and need trimming.

For 375 H&H you are very unlikely to save any money unless you use a lot of ammo.

I reload for several calibres so the cost of an extra set of dies enables me to load 375 H&H economically.

Reloading is a great hobby, as a money saving exercise it doesn’t pay, I paid for a lot of my kit with pistol ammo back in the day.

I have a better choice of bullets, and can/could make more accurate ammunition.

 

[StephenJD]

I shoot my .375 a fair amount, and other heavy bullet calibres. It is not cheap but PPU is not too bad at around £230 per 100 which is a good source of brass. Bullets are sensible if you search around or buy MMEs 300 grain offering and do the relaxing route
The point is you do need to practice and adapt to the recoil and knowing where it’s zeroed and the effect of different ranges with your chosen load. I would just buy 100 rounds of PPU, save 40 and shoot the rest
and reconsider the reloading in 12 months time. If you are an NRA member look for Short Range Heavy Bullet on their website.

Thank you. I’m not but they sound like fun days. The ones that I could find talk about min bullet weights of 400grn so I assume they’re intended for calibres larger than 375?

 

[Heym SR20]

Firstly, I’m not a reloader so please go gently with me… But, if the below holds true, I *might* learn to become one.

Bear with me…

A box of 20 x Federal factory ammunition loaded with 300grn Swift A Frame = £137.95 and with a 3-6 month wait (per conversation with my trusted RFD who called Viking to enquire on my behalf yesterday) so £6.90 per round or £689.75 per 100. Cost may also increase over that 3-6 months, which would be passed on to me.

Or, according to Reloading Solutions’ website this morning:

100 x Norma brass cases = £222 (£111/50)
1kg tub of Vhit N140 = £120 (assume up to 220 loads at up to 4.5g / 69grn to make the maths simple, noting that this us above the max load for the projectile & powder combo according the Vhit manual [65.9] but allows for a few grains of “wastage” per round if such a thing exists)
100 x 300grn Swift A-Frame projectiles = £244 (£122/50)
100 x RWS Large Magnum Rifle primers = £20

Which is equivalent to £5.40 per round or £540.35 per 100, a saving of just under £150 compared to the same quantity of the Federal factory stuff.

For the second 100, I could presumably re-use the now once-fired brass saving me £2.22 per round or £222 for the batch which is now £370 less than factory. So, over 200 rounds, I’ve theoretically saved >£520 vs factory.

Now, clearly, as a non-reloader I don’t currently have any kit at all so would need to lay out for that but what am I missing in the above that means I would be at break even after 200-300 rounds (I have only a limited idea of how much a reloading set up would cost from scratch but that would seem to cover a pretty high end set up)?

(How long it would take me to get through 100 rounds of premium big game ammunition, let alone 200+, is another question of course…)

I don't think you are missing much. However my views on the matter are:

In the UK, unless you are shooting a mainstream cartridge - ie 222, 243, 308, 270 or 6.5CM and you want sort of continuity in ammunition supply you really need to reload. You can buy powder and primers over the counter of an RFD and no restrictions other thanyour wallet, cases and bullets can arrive by post.

You can get a perfectly servicible Lee reloading kit with scales, reloading press and other bits and pieces for about £200 new. You need to add in a set of dies for the cartridge - £50 to £100. If you prefer Green rather then Red then RCBS do a kit for about £500. The RCBS is nicer, better finished etc but won't get you from A to B any better or faster. Think Ford vs Mercedes.

Reloading Kit is very robust, and pretty much lasts a lifetime - think a good workshop vice type robust. It's a capital cost rather than a variable. No reason not to buy 2nd hand. I bought a second hand lee kit 15 years ago for a bit over £100. Yes I would like a Green Press, but I don't feel the need to rush out and buy one. And I am pretty confident if I put it on SD I could sell it for what I paid for it.

Reloading is really a very straightforward process - but for heavens sake don't tell any body. There are plenty who believe it is a dark art and full of mystery.

With a cartridge such as the 375 H&H you want it to go bang everytime. Choice of bullet for the intended use and reliabile cycling through the action is far far more important than whether it shoots a 1/2" or 1 1/2" group.

And I absolutely would crimp every load. This helps with accuracy, but the recoil energy of a 375 is enough move the bullet in the case whilst its sitting in the magazine.

Brass - most brass cartridge cases will last at least five or six loadings. No reason why you should not use the brass that you have cartridges you already have. But it is important to ensure that you don't mix up brass. Federal 375H&H will have subtely different internal dimensions to Norma or PPU, which may mean slightly different pressures from the same load of powder. I have a load of RWS brass in my 7x65R that is now on its 10th reload. How you cost your brass. New empty brass divided by 6, or do you buy new ammo and then keep and reload the brass.

It does take time / cartridges to work up a load for your rifle and choice of components. You can do a basic pressure test with 10 cartridges, loading each at different 0/3gn increments starting from starting load. If you shoot each cartridge from a cold barrel and note point of impact, you will probably see three or four adjacent cartridges shooting close together - that is a node - load up up five more and test those.

However it absolutely down to your own expectations of the ammo. It is straightforward and easy to get ammo that will shoot into 2" at 100m, if not less. It takes a lot more work and fine tuning to get a rifle shooting tiny little groups at long ranges or to win competitions.

For a rifle that you are intending to travel with a take overseas I would start off with factory ammo, and keep the keep the factory boxes and brass together. A choose a bullet that at least looks vaguely like the one shown on the box. Officialdom can get very excited about things that don't look standard, especially officialdom in airports etc.

One final point. I am not convinced that reloading necessarily reduces the effect on the bank account. However you do get a very positive side on the balance sheet of life, because you do need to spend time working up those loads and checking the trajectories etc etc

 

[Andyquadra]

All very fair points indeed…thank you. This is exactly the sort of advice I need to bring me back from the precipice…!

@Stalker62 is very pragmatic in his advice, bloody glutton for punishment, but still with us.....

 

[RH Somerset]

While we are on the subject of loading for 375 H&H, has anyone used RS60 with Barnes 300gr TSX?

 

[Selous]

I’m in the try to practice as often as possible camp, particularly with medium and large bore rifles like the .375 and up, even if it’s only four or five shots per session. Reloading certainly helps to keep the costs of practice reasonable, even if you use pricey A frames when abroad.
Our last PHs told us stories of folks turning up with brand new rifles with scopes and mounts still in their original packaging. The PH had to sort it out and mount the scope but it recoiled too much for the client who then used the camp .375!!

 

[Selous]

While we are on the subject of loading for 375 H&H, has anyone used RS60 with Barnes 300gr TSX?

Yes and it works very well. 2550fps easily with no pressure signs