Lead melter?
- Thread starter Jacobm557
- Start date
Going to melt used lead from the range, to make 40-65 heads
Swedish
Well-Known Member
Used range lead can be tricky when it comes to hardness for casting bullets.
Ive heard it can be a challenge with getting the hardness right and for filling out the mould to add 1-2%tin
Smallholder
Well-Known Member
I've only used the Lee melters. I've used the 10lb production pot IV for over 10 years and cast thousands of pure lead round ball and a few hundred slug. It's fine and the only problem is the bottom pouring hole occasionally needs a bit of a clear with a thin nail in a bit of wood. I have picked up the Lee Pro 4-20 2nd hand to use for hard cast lead bullets and I think it's worth paying the extra for the pouring mechanism.
As for hardness, I've a Lee hardness tester and used it to test commercial hard cast bullets and my own bullets cast from range scrap. You can find the tester instructions online and they give an indication of hardness and the max pressure you can use them at. I found the commercial bullets are far harder than necessary for my loads and range scrap (chucking out large bits of obvious pure lead) although a bit softer still of ample hardness for my use and filled out the bullets perfectly without the need of adding tin etc.
As for hardness, I've a Lee hardness tester and used it to test commercial hard cast bullets and my own bullets cast from range scrap. You can find the tester instructions online and they give an indication of hardness and the max pressure you can use them at. I found the commercial bullets are far harder than necessary for my loads and range scrap (chucking out large bits of obvious pure lead) although a bit softer still of ample hardness for my use and filled out the bullets perfectly without the need of adding tin etc.
sassman186
Well-Known Member
when using range lead, for 10lb tub i start with 2lb of pure roofing lead then fill with range lead,
this gives a softer alloy and casts nice bullets,
welcome to the dark side,
this gives a softer alloy and casts nice bullets,
welcome to the dark side,
thejollypirate
Member
I use a Lyman Mag 25 for casting bullets, works very well with wither the bottom pour or using a dipper for larger bullets (Lead tends to harden unevenly with large .577 bullets when poured from the bottom slowly.
For melting range lead, I'd recommend getting a cast iron pot and gas burner ring and mixing a fair amount of lead in, then cast it into ingots. Get yourself a cheap(ish) hardness tester and test the ingots and you can add what you need to get the desired hardness while recasting into ingots or mixing and going straight for casting bullets.
For melting range lead, I'd recommend getting a cast iron pot and gas burner ring and mixing a fair amount of lead in, then cast it into ingots. Get yourself a cheap(ish) hardness tester and test the ingots and you can add what you need to get the desired hardness while recasting into ingots or mixing and going straight for casting bullets.
I have used the RCBS ProMelt and the Lee Production Pot. Both have a thermostat and both are bottom pour. The thermostat is important so that the lead is at the correct temperature for speed of making bullets. Too cold and the mould won't fill fully and so you will have many rejected bullets. Too hot and you will have "angels" where the lead creeps down the bleed grooves on the mould and you'll also be waiting longer than needed for the bullet to "set" in the mould.
Is bottom pour needed? It is nice to have especially if using a multi-cavity mould say a four or six therough to eight and ten cavity gang moulds. For a single or double cavity if you have a good ladle and know how to use it then I'd say no. All that and the above changes however if casting lead round balls for catapults when, to be honest and old saucepand and bent spoon will do just as well as for that need as would £££s worth of gear.
For your 40-65 I am guessing a longish bullet. And at most a double cavity mould? For that bottom pour is nice but not essential if that comes at the trade off for pot capacity and the 40-65 will empty a pot quite quickly. So for that a larger capacity pot might would be better...if bottom pour all well and good...but if not then a good RCBS or Lyman proper ladle with correct technique and not a bent spoon!
DO NOT USE PLUMBERS' FLUX AS IT RELEASES CORROSIVE FUMES AND YOU WILL HAVE RUST OVER EVERYTHING. USE EITHER A SMALL KNOB OF CANDLE PARAFFIN WAX OR TALLOW A GOOD RESIN FLUX.
Is bottom pour needed? It is nice to have especially if using a multi-cavity mould say a four or six therough to eight and ten cavity gang moulds. For a single or double cavity if you have a good ladle and know how to use it then I'd say no. All that and the above changes however if casting lead round balls for catapults when, to be honest and old saucepand and bent spoon will do just as well as for that need as would £££s worth of gear.
For your 40-65 I am guessing a longish bullet. And at most a double cavity mould? For that bottom pour is nice but not essential if that comes at the trade off for pot capacity and the 40-65 will empty a pot quite quickly. So for that a larger capacity pot might would be better...if bottom pour all well and good...but if not then a good RCBS or Lyman proper ladle with correct technique and not a bent spoon!
DO NOT USE PLUMBERS' FLUX AS IT RELEASES CORROSIVE FUMES AND YOU WILL HAVE RUST OVER EVERYTHING. USE EITHER A SMALL KNOB OF CANDLE PARAFFIN WAX OR TALLOW A GOOD RESIN FLUX.
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