Yes of courseIf you can will you post a few pictures of the rail when you get it.
Yes of courseIf you can will you post a few pictures of the rail when you get it.
If you can will you post a few pictures of the rail when you get it.


Sorry to resurrect this old thread but how did this rail work out Matt? I'm considering the same solution but just trying to get my head around using a rail with nothing other than friction holding it in place. Any issues at all?View attachment 234960View attachment 234961
Update.... all now fitted and I have to say it’s a brilliant bit of engineering, fitted as per the instructions and I can’t see it ever coming off unintentionally, but the screw underneath is nice security if anything did move in the future.
Its hard to see in the photo but the rail fits absolutely flush with the ejection port front and back and the security screw has about 1/2mm clearance from the rifle so there is not pressure on the screw itself.
Really happy with it, no issues at all, it does take some force to hammer (with a block) the rail into the Sako dovetails and from then on every shot only tries to tighten it more.Sorry to resurrect this old thread but how did this rail work out Matt? I'm considering the same solution but just trying to get my head around using a rail with nothing other than friction holding it in place. Any issues at all?
To be honest I’ve never taken it back off but I couldn’t see it marking the action any more than the Sako Optilocks would as it’s precision machined and fits the dovetails perfectly - not just catching on a leading edge.If it takes that much force to get in, how do the dovetails look after removal if reselling? Just curious if you’ve had it off since fitting
That's really helpful, thanks. I'm not even going to bother with the safety screw, be very surprised if this ever moves a fraction of a mil, it is so well engineered.To be honest I’ve never taken it back off but I couldn’t see it marking the action any more than the Sako Optilocks would as it’s precision machined and fits the dovetails perfectly - not just catching on a leading edge.
When I say it takes a lot of force to put on, the rail slides on by hand with about 2-3mm to go. You then need to tap it on the last bit to make it flush with a hammer and bit of wood. The near rail doesn’t just slide on by hand and sit there which is what people’s worry is. The earlier versions didn’t even have the safety screw underneath and it’s my understanding that they only added the screw to put people’s mind at ease that the rail couldn’t slide back and fall off - not that it was actually needed. It would have to take a fairly strong impact at the front to knock the rail back free from the tapered dovetails.
Obviously as the gun fires, the recoil only tries to tighten the rail on.
You’ve been quiet for a while …..