Monkey Sticks !!

Maybe twin sticks are quicker to set up but how many novices who have missed close deer would have killed them using these quad sticks? Probably not many of them? We have all seen the videos and I feel for those who get Bucks fever when paying for stalking and miss an easy one. For any novices out there, do yourself a favour and start with these quad sticks. Like MS says, they're like shooting from the prone using a bi-pod. When you get as good as pip you can progress to twin sticks (although you can of course use these like twin sticks anyway!)


I'd pay money for a video of a novice setting up quad sticks and shooting a deer! It just aint gunna happen. Too much faffin, too much noise, too much time....
 
I'd pay money for a video of a novice setting up quad sticks and shooting a deer! It just aint gunna happen. Too much faffin, too much noise, too much time....

What are you going on about? Clearly you don't use them or didn't practise with them before going stalking. Mine are silent for a start. Yes a novice may take longer to set them up but how many novices are snap shooting or rushing to take a shot anyway? If they are they shouldn't be! The videos that YDS has shown of clients missing deer certainly were not rushed shots! The time was there but so was bucks fever hence the misses!
 
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What im talking about is putting a novice in front of a deer, at an acceptable range to shoot off sticks (ask alex/csl, he is an expert on acceptable ranges!), then setting up the novice/sticks, aligning them, getting the shot off without spooking deer. It just aint gunna happen. Better off with stoney point tripod, resting hand on tripod to allow adjustment if aim without moving shoulder. Ive taken out enough novices to know how to get them their first deer. Only application for quad sticks i can see is ultra long shots by experienced shot when crops/cover is up. Just my opinion!
 
Sorry Garry but you're wrong. You may not like them but rest assured plenty of novices use them very effectively and many of them are on this forum! I'll take a reasonably educated guess that a high percentage of the novices that MS takes out use these quad sticks. Many including myself shot their first deer off them and many including myself continue to use them every time they go out. If there is not enough time they're used as a two stick format but I find that I usually have plenty of time to set them as a quad without spooking the deer. Perhaps I'm just a better stalker than you and can get close without putting them on full alert? :D:stir:
 
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Probably used by the "one in three" brigade. I can get close, got one at 20m night before last!

ECB70C29-7159-492B-A1BA-7663A4E8FADE-19766-0000106D12A31223_zpsdc6ea847.jpg


nice little cull buck
 
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Nice one but it looks slightly better than a 'nice little cull buck' to me? That would make a lot of peoples season!
 
Sorry Garry but you're wrong. You may not like them but rest assured plenty of novices use them very effectively and many of them are on this forum! I'll take a reasonably educated guess that a high percentage of the novices that MS takes out use these quad sticks. Many including myself shot their first deer off them and many including myself continue to use them every time I go out. If there is not enough time they're used as a two stick format but I find that I usually have plenty of time to set them as a quad without spooking the deer. Perhaps I'm just a better stalker than you and can get close without putting them on full alert? :D:stir:

+1 I have to agree I'm not a novice but have used Bi pod. Tri pod sticks and have just moved on to 5 pole sticks quad sticks with a front adjustable leg only takes half hour to practise with them then you have a bench rest situation in the field without having to find a suitable place to lie prone. These sticks are so stable i can zero my rifles on them.

Jimbo
 
MS
ive been searching the www to compare sticks after looking at these bean poles at a garden centre.
top of the range (in my very limited experience - I.e. no knowledge) was by knobloch at £120.00 for a bipod.
at the other end of the scale, eBay were selling some second hand for £20 (the same price as new - why do people bid for seconds up to full price?)

I never shot off sticks, nor do I have a centre fire. However, after my first night out bunny bashing on my own with my rimmy I found that by the time I picked up my target in the lamp then got into a prone position, relocated my target, set up my Harris 9" bipod, if I was lucky it was high enough to see over the thistles the rabbit might still be there to take the shot!!

For £20.00, your instructions and good feedback from the thread, the only question I have is, "why not?"

ill be making them tomorrow (quads) and if I'm not happy they will be used to grow my beans on!

​thanks for the thread.
 
MS
ive been searching the www to compare sticks after looking at these bean poles at a garden centre.
top of the range (in my very limited experience - I.e. no knowledge) was by knobloch at £120.00 for a bipod.
at the other end of the scale, eBay were selling some second hand for £20 (the same price as new - why do people bid for seconds up to full price?)

I never shot off sticks, nor do I have a centre fire. However, after my first night out bunny bashing on my own with my rimmy I found that by the time I picked up my target in the lamp then got into a prone position, relocated my target, set up my Harris 9" bipod, if I was lucky it was high enough to see over the thistles the rabbit might still be there to take the shot!!

For £20.00, your instructions and good feedback from the thread, the only question I have is, "why not?"

ill be making them tomorrow (quads) and if I'm not happy they will be used to grow my beans on!

​thanks for the thread.

You'll be amazed at them mate I'm certain, and what's more, you'll have a lot less ricochets than you would from a Bipod!
Good luck!
MS
 
Rabbiting is easier.
i use twin sticks and make sure I am leaning back against a tree/post etc means you can pan and move left to right
​panning is very tricky with 4 sticks
 
I use the same sticks but join them together with Martingale stops. http://www.thesaddleryshop.co.uk/P/Martingale_Stop-(756).aspx

George.

I used to use them, but they are tight as hell to get on, and the last ones I had kept splitting! When they break in use, it is a catastrophic failure!:doh:
The worst that happens with the bungee is it becomes a bit frayed or loose, but it doesn't seem to break completely. I even tried sticking two on, but that makes it too tight to open.
MS
 
Yip agree with them splitting, not had any failures yet though, there are some that are more brittle than others (must be different manufacturers) i try to always stay away from the black one's and use the neutral or flesh colored, as they seem to be far more supple.
 
Right, Ive been meaning to post this for a while!What follows is a step-by-step guide of how to make the most stable shooting sticks you will ever use for about £10 !!Firstly, get down to a DIY type garden centre and purchase 4 of their 1.8m plastic coated garden canes (which are actually metal tubes). They cost about £2.50 each.1. Select 2 of them which we will then shorten by 2-4" depending upon your height. You should see a small ridge at about 1cm from the flat top end of the stick which is where the blanking plug meets the metal tube. Cut gently around this with a stanley knife and remove the plug with a pair of pliers or grips.2. Next, mark a line around the tube where you will then cut with a hacksaw. I remove 4" and I'm about 5' 10". If you are taller, you should remove 2" and see how they fit. You can actually get canes longer than 1.8m if you are VERY tall! Refit plug and glue it in or use tape as shown. You should now have 2 longer and 2 shorter ones:View attachment 28104View attachment 28105View attachment 281063. Next, we need to secure the poles together in pairs as shown below. You can do this with any stretchy type material which will last. I have used some fairly thin Bungy cord on these with a simple clove hitch and reef knot with a 'glob' of gorilla glue in the reef knot to stop it coming undone. I have also used car inner tube cut into strips, exhaust support rubber, large 'O' rings/Grommets and 'Martingale' rubber rings which you can get from horse tack shops. Any method will work, but dont do it too tight or you'll not be able to open them!View attachment 28107View attachment 281094. Next you need to orientate the sticks to suit whether you are left or right handed. Shown below is for right handed - so that the shorter stick is where your face will be when in the aim. We did this to both so that they will always be this way whichever way around you have the sticks!;)View attachment 281085. You now need to secure the bottom ends of the sticks together by the same method. (Note - you are now joining the two pairs together and not tying the same stick together at both top and bottom!):doh:6. You are now ready to mount your rifle onto them and work out the best distance to have them set apart. Once you have discovered what suits you best, place a length of cord over the longer uprights so that your sticks will then open to this distance every time. The wider you can get them the better really as it will provide more stability. As a guide, I find that just inside the front and rear sling studs is about right.View attachment 28110View attachment 28111View attachment 28112View attachment 28113View attachment 28114You now have a set of very practical sticks!They can also be opened and used as a normal 'twin stick' bipod for close or hurried shots. They are light to carry and also serve as a single stick when bunched together for steadying binos. For kneeling or sitting shots, simply open the bottom ends wider and you have height adjustment!You may find them slightly awkward to begin with, but a bit of practice with a rimfire after bunnies or similar and you will never want to use anything else!Because both the back and front of the stock are supported, you will find that you can shoot as good from these as you can from the prone position! They can only really move fore-and-aft so you should keep your feet in more of a fore-and-aft position to aid stability also. Better still if you can get you back against a tree or similar. These are great for stalking in flat open countryside as a standing shot gives more look-down angle for safety than sitting or kneeling. However, you will find that they are so solid from the standing position that you will never need to kneel or sit again! I can easily group 1" off these at 100m!:cool:Have fun!MS:)
Thanks for putting such an effort in to this post much appreciated.Regards,Glendine.
 
I must have missed it but why do you leave the long lengths on the 'V'?

What is the advantage of leaving them asymmetric over cutting them all off to the same length like a normal bipod/tripod rest?

Alan
 
Could someone explain how you set up a novice on these? With the tripod its so simple, spot deer, set up tripod, step back, say to novice "go on then, in behind the shoulder".... Just cant picture in my minds eye the process of setting up the quad sticks when another person is involved???
 
The back piece is cut to allow your cheek to rest on the but. Ive cut both mine(front and rear) so it doesn't matter which way you have the sticks. You will always have a cut section at the rear.
 
Could someone explain how you set up a novice on these? With the tripod its so simple, spot deer, set up tripod, step back, say to novice "go on then, in behind the shoulder".... Just cant picture in my minds eye the process of setting up the quad sticks when another person is involved???

I wouldn't wait until I'm on a deer mate. I normally give them a set to go away and practice with (as I have with Adam miurhead). A couple of nights on the bunnies with a rimfire and he'll be sold on them for sure!
Best way to set them up is to open the bottom legs first and mount the rifle on them as you would with a normal twin stick bipod. You can then either shoot from them in this configuration, or, if time permits (or range and stability demand!), lift the butt of the rifle and open them backwards. Minor adjustment in height can be quickly achieved by opening the legs wider or closing them together (much quicker than having to adjust telescopic poles which normally doesn't happen as it takes too long!). This is also a good feature for uneven ground. Sticks can also be alternated from sitting or kneeling position to standing in an instant. I often watch the tripod users on the DSC 1 shoot test fannying around with adjusting their 3 telescopic poles to get the exact height and think to myself how unrealistic that would be out in the field!
Minor adjustments in azimuth are made by simply lifting one side and rotating. hold the rifle with your shooting hand and lift the sticks with the non shooting hand from about half way down the stick. (This is also how I would pan around with a scope mounted lamp if out lamping bunnies. As soon as one comes into view you are already on it and good to fire a very stable shot!;))

Another method is to mount the rifle on the sticks from behind low cover before standing up. Sounds complicated, but I'll try to explain!
With sticks laying on ground, open bottom legs and orientate roughly to position of target. Place butt of rifle into top vee of what is now a normal bipod. Open top of sticks towards front sling stud and effectivel mount rifle as it would be if you were standing. Slowly stand up whilst rotating the whole set-up forward and you are there! Only minor adjustments will be required with minimum movement! (Less than a tripod anyway!)
As with most things in life - practice makes perfect! You don't wait until you are on a deer before you learn to shoot so why should using any type of sticks be any different?
MS:)
 
I dont mean take their first shot ever at a deer from sticks without practice (like i did!), just all sounds very complicated and noisy to me! Each to their own i guess! Perhaps you have stupid deaf deer where you live!
 
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