Does replacing a stock change POI?

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Sako75Hunter

Sako75Hunter

Well-Known Member
So I bought a s/h Finnlight stock off another SD member for my stainless synthetic Sako 75 stalking rifle, to shed a bit of weight (about 150g., it turns out), because I like the look of the black finish, and to have a spare.

I've put it on the rifle but didn't bed it or anything like that, and am pretty sure I torqued the action screws about the same as before, though I don't have a torque wrench.

I'll take a few shots to test the zero before I go back out for deer, but am curious about other members' experience with this. I remember seeing that some people even swap between a timber and synthetic stock depending on the season.

Is it usually necessary to rezero every time when changing a stock?
 
Sako75Hunter said:
So I bought a s/h Finnlight stock off another SD member for my stainless synthetic Sako 75 stalking rifle, to shed a bit of weight (about 150g., it turns out), because I like the look of the black finish, and to have a spare.

I've put it on the rifle but didn't bed it or anything like that, and am pretty sure I torqued the action screws about the same as before, though I don't have a torque wrench.

I'll take a few shots to test the zero before I go back out for deer, but am curious about other members' experience with this. I remember seeing that some people even swap between a timber and synthetic stock depending on the season.

Is it usually necessary to rezero every time when changing a stock?
Click to expand...
Yes, unless you like wondering why you missed deer.
 
I’d say that yes it would assuming that’s you’re using a glass scope rather than digital.
My thoughts on the cause of this is that the glass lenses are not perfect and moving your line of sight, even slightly (due to a different cheek weld from stock to stock) has you looking through a different sight plane through the scope and even if only a mm different than the previous stock sight-line, then your poi will change due to this (ie most if not all lenses/scopes are not 100% perfect and there will always be a slight difference based upon your sight line through the scope).
That’s how I’ve always thought of it anyway.
 
Sako75Hunter said:
So I bought a s/h Finnlight stock off another SD member for my stainless synthetic Sako 75 stalking rifle, to shed a bit of weight (about 150g., it turns out), because I like the look of the black finish, and to have a spare.

I've put it on the rifle but didn't bed it or anything like that, and am pretty sure I torqued the action screws about the same as before, though I don't have a torque wrench.

I'll take a few shots to test the zero before I go back out for deer, but am curious about other members' experience with this. I remember seeing that some people even swap between a timber and synthetic stock depending on the season.

Is it usually necessary to rezero every time when changing a stock?
Click to expand...
Sako 75 stocks can be problematic. I would definitely check zero any time I did anything to a Sako 75 stock. I speak from painful and expensive experience.
Regards
JCS
 
I had a T3 synthetic that POI changed every time you took the stock on and off, and that was me using a torque wrench. Any change in screw torque would alter POI.
 
I had a similar problem of changed POI and the group size had doubled when I put my T3 action into a GRS stock,
I had to almost double the torque tension for it to shoot to back to .5 MOA
 
if you change anything substantial on a rifle expect a change of POI. A rifle starts to move with recoil as soon as the bullet starts to move down the barrel. How it moves is a function of weight of the rifle, scope, moderator etc and how it interfaces with the shooter.

Stock shape makes a huge difference. A stock with lots of drop will cause the rifle to kick upwards sending POI higher. A straight stock - rifle moves straight backwards.

And changing the shooter also makes a difference. Especially noticeable with left and right hand shooters on the same rifle.

How much difference - difficult to say as all rifles are different. In many cases it may be an inch or two, in others very difficult to actually say it has moved and in some it may be off the target completely.

Only testing can show if it changes.
 
Many thanks for the replies folks.

The stock is identical in shape to the original, being a Sako 75 too. But the lighter weight may affect things in some way (in addition to all the other factors mentioned in the replies above).

Will be interesting to see by how much the scope is out when I take a few test shots.
 
Actually I've been half thinking of taking the optilock scope mounts apart to put some nail varnish remover on the threads of the screws joining the bases to the rings (after degreasing them first, of course).

I've never had any problems with scope movement, but I'm well aware that junction can be a real curse with optilocks, and I'd be happy to rule out the possibility of future issues.

I may as well do it now, seeing as I'll be needing to rezero the scope anyway.
 
Sako75Hunter said:
Actually I've been half thinking of taking the optilock scope mounts apart to put some nail varnish remover on the threads of the screws joining the bases to the rings (after degreasing them first, of course).

I've never had any problems with scope movement, but I'm well aware that junction can be a real curse with optilocks, and I'd be happy to rule out the possibility of future issues.

I may as well do it now, seeing as I'll be needing to rezero the scope anyway.
Click to expand...
Way to go!
Every day at the range is a fun day. Rezeroing takes just a couple of minutes.
I play around with stocks, mounts and scopes constantly. Next day they‘re zeroed again. Great fun.
 
Rider said:
Way to go!
Every day at the range is a fun day. Rezeroing takes just a couple of minutes.
I play around with stocks, mounts and scopes constantly. Next day they‘re zeroed again. Great fun.
Click to expand...
Always takes me a lot longer than a few minutes to zero one of my scopes!

There's no range anywhere near me so I do it on my own land, which is extremely rough. It takes about half an hour just to carry all the stuff up there and get set up.

I used to bring up a portable Black and Decker workbench for sitting the rifle on, but I now have a fifth leg for my Viperflex quad sticks, which will be way handier.
 
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