Alpex 4K LRF shimming
- Thread starter JackDavis
- Start date
I have been using Burris Signature Zee rings for many years, they have plastic inserts that allow you to build in elevation by using different thicknesses. Their latest offering is the XTR version which allows a huge amount of adjustment.
Downside is you need to either have weaver bases or a Picatinny rail.
Sports match do a fully adjustable set of rings (ATP66 for 30mm diameter scopes from memory), I have them on a 22LR for long range target shooting. They fit on a standard(?) dovetail.
If used correctly both the above will allow you not only to adjust the LRF box vertically but also horizontally.
Downside is you need to either have weaver bases or a Picatinny rail.
Sports match do a fully adjustable set of rings (ATP66 for 30mm diameter scopes from memory), I have them on a 22LR for long range target shooting. They fit on a standard(?) dovetail.
If used correctly both the above will allow you not only to adjust the LRF box vertically but also horizontally.
That’s handy as I have a spare set of the XTR rings
I’m looking for a set of high 30mm XTR Signature rings if you decide not to use them?That’s handy as I have a spare set of the XTR rings
It's not possible to move the LRF box
The position of the LRF module is fixed which means that the position on the screen where the LRF splash appears is also fixed. The LRF box marks where the LRF splash hits the sensor
You can't see the LRF splash in daylight but it will be visible at night so you should see the splash right over the LRF box
What is happening is that when you zero the scope, the position of the reticle must be moved to match the point of impact
Depending on exactly where the reticle finishes up when the scope is zeroed, the reticle may well be further away from the LRF box
This situation can be made worse by a feature which shifts the complete image at higher magnifications so that the reticle moves to the centre of the display - and in doing so makes the LRF box move further away
You can finish up with a situation where, at high magnifications he LRF box is not even on the display
I suggest you zero the scope first and find out where the reticle is in relation the the LRF box, before spending money on any fancy rings
In practice, range targets at base magnification where the LRF box will be visible, get a range and ballistic solution and then, if necessary, mag up for the shot
Cheers
Bruce
The position of the LRF module is fixed which means that the position on the screen where the LRF splash appears is also fixed. The LRF box marks where the LRF splash hits the sensor
You can't see the LRF splash in daylight but it will be visible at night so you should see the splash right over the LRF box
What is happening is that when you zero the scope, the position of the reticle must be moved to match the point of impact
Depending on exactly where the reticle finishes up when the scope is zeroed, the reticle may well be further away from the LRF box
This situation can be made worse by a feature which shifts the complete image at higher magnifications so that the reticle moves to the centre of the display - and in doing so makes the LRF box move further away
You can finish up with a situation where, at high magnifications he LRF box is not even on the display
I suggest you zero the scope first and find out where the reticle is in relation the the LRF box, before spending money on any fancy rings
In practice, range targets at base magnification where the LRF box will be visible, get a range and ballistic solution and then, if necessary, mag up for the shot
Cheers
Bruce
Wonder if a firmware update would solve this allow you to edit the LRF
You're not understanding what i saidWonder if a firmware update would solve this allow you to edit the LRF
The LRF module emits a laser beam which hits the target and a small portion of that is reflected back to the scope, always hitting the sensor in exactly the same place - which is where the LRF box appears on the display
If you want the LRF box in a different place, you have to physically change the alignment of the laser beam coming out of the LRF module so that the reflected laser light hits a different place on the sensor - and then you have to adjust the position of the LRF box so it is positioned where the laser is now hitting the sensor
The Alpex has no facility for adjusting the alignment of the laser beam
Software updates can do a lot of clever stuff, but, to the best of my knowledge they can't make mechanical adjustments
On the PARD 008 it was possible to adjust the alignment of the LRF and also the position of the LRF box on the screen
On the DNT Zulus, it is also possible to adjust the alignment of the LRF but DNT will not provide instructions on how to move the LRF box
Without being able to adjust both the alignment of the laser beam and the position of the LRF box , there's no point in doing one if it's not possible to do the other
Cheers
Bruce
been in touch with the tech guys over this, in a nutshell the only way is to send it back and they might be able to slightly adjust it, but no promises, they are aware of the issue, apparently they vary on different scopes, mine is ok on 3-5 mag but disappears off the screen with more mag, its positioned halfway between the cross and the top at about 2 o clock, hopefully a fix will be available in the future.
If they are aware of the issues and it’s widespread then surely it’s a design fault and should be recalled and rectified
I really dont think it’s an issue, a few people have reported a preference but that doesn’t mean that there is an issue. I have just bought and mounted one, it makes sense to have the box off center, at different ranges it would be higher or lower even if it was central
paul o'
Well-Known Member
I talked to them at the show on this problem the 4k lrf has! i was told they are looking at this as iam not the first lol.
I just zeroed mine found out my box was at 2pm ! so when I flash up I need to come out of the aim get the correct aim within the cross and return back on aim to take the shot works well enough at 600yrds but agree it's a pain at high mag.
I just zeroed mine found out my box was at 2pm ! so when I flash up I need to come out of the aim get the correct aim within the cross and return back on aim to take the shot works well enough at 600yrds but agree it's a pain at high mag.
Attachments
You are correct - there is not an issue with the scope
The issue is with the many people who simply don't understand how it works
Given that the vast majority will have never used a scope with an onboard LRF, I think the manufacturers should do a far better job in explaining how their product work and its limitations
Cheers
Bruce
Everlong
Well-Known Member
But if you shim or adjust the scope mount to move the Zero so that it coincides with the LRF box you've achieved what the OP is asking. They just phrased it incorrectly.
Well, if you don't ask the right question- don't expect the right answer
The OP said he wants to shim the scope so he can move the LRF box - and as i have explained, you can't move the LRF box
If he had said he wanted to shim the scope to get the reticle close to the LRF box when the scope was zeroed - then that would have been the right question
However, I would still have suggested that before buying any fancy adjustable mounts he zeros the rifle with the mounts he's got and sees where the reticle finishes up in relation to the LRF box
Only if the reticle and the LRF box are far apart does he need to consider adjustable mounts
Cheers
Bruce
The OP said he wants to shim the scope so he can move the LRF box - and as i have explained, you can't move the LRF box
If he had said he wanted to shim the scope to get the reticle close to the LRF box when the scope was zeroed - then that would have been the right question
However, I would still have suggested that before buying any fancy adjustable mounts he zeros the rifle with the mounts he's got and sees where the reticle finishes up in relation to the LRF box
Only if the reticle and the LRF box are far apart does he need to consider adjustable mounts
Cheers
Bruce
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Just bore sight the unit . With the scope adjustment centre view a distance object through the barrel and note where the scope is on the same object. If off adjust the mounting. Untill both are close.
Final zeroing with ammunition will be close to centre and the lrf will most likely be close to the reticle.
Final zeroing with ammunition will be close to centre and the lrf will most likely be close to the reticle.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Yep - as above and as MJ has suggested just ping with the LRF and the scope on minimum magnification then zoom in as required - it becomes quite instinctive, very quickly - unlike the sodding record button…..
Kevgun
Well-Known Member
Switch the scope on, go into the zeroing menu, then check your X & Y values are on 0, then range a target to check were the LRF target box is, then go through the mag range and see if you can still see the target box, If it's visible right throughout the magnification range then there is nothing wrong with the Scope, its a barrel offset or mount problem, if the Scope has to use extremities of it's zeroing range then the LRF will only appear at base mag.
If you struggling to get your head around how the Scope works try this! get a sheet of A4 paper then draw a single dot on it and call that dot the LRF splash, then place a glass over the dot, the Glass represents your X hair, so if your mount is not too far out then the Glass will stay somewhere over the Dot but if you have a large offset or mount misalignment, then you will need to move your X hair ( glass ) to zero the rifle, However the dot ( lrf) stays in the same place on the A4 sheet, hence the reason you cant see it on higher mag because your moving the crosshair further away from the fixed position LRF, the only way around it, if this bothers you is adjustable mounts, or shimming, but that's something I never do. the other solution would be for the manufacturer to make the LRF adjustable.
If you struggling to get your head around how the Scope works try this! get a sheet of A4 paper then draw a single dot on it and call that dot the LRF splash, then place a glass over the dot, the Glass represents your X hair, so if your mount is not too far out then the Glass will stay somewhere over the Dot but if you have a large offset or mount misalignment, then you will need to move your X hair ( glass ) to zero the rifle, However the dot ( lrf) stays in the same place on the A4 sheet, hence the reason you cant see it on higher mag because your moving the crosshair further away from the fixed position LRF, the only way around it, if this bothers you is adjustable mounts, or shimming, but that's something I never do. the other solution would be for the manufacturer to make the LRF adjustable.
Perfectly explained even I understood it and I don't own one.
Everlong
Well-Known Member
I think you probably knew exactly what was being asked just like I did....difference is, I chose to answer with help rather than pedantry.....
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