Chain saw sharpening
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Is that the flat guide a file fits in to? I have one of these but still make an @r$e of it!
Smallholder
Well-Known Member
I just use one of those kits with a round file, flat file and a guage. I take my time to line up the markers on file holder and try and do it regularly so I only need a few stokes per tooth to sharpen it up. Rakers are taken down but not by too much.
Yes, filing from both sides and doing the rakers. I currently use a Stihl guide that is supposed to keep you right but my hand coordination is useless (much the same with knives but I have the right tool for that job now)
Craigsaun
Well-Known Member
Practice makes perfect, make sure you have the correct size file for your chain , keep the file 90 degrees to the bar and IF you have a Sthil chain it will have a scribe mark on each tooth , follow this for your sharpening angle . Like smelly dog says don’t forget the rakers , 2 rubs with a good flat file should do it .job done 
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
This is what you want, but never let your chain go blunt before you touch it up.
www.gustharts.com
Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File Chainsaw Sharpener | Next Day Delivery
STIHL 2-in-1 Easy File: File & depth gauge tool in ONE! Effortless chainsaw sharpening at Gustharts.com. Shop risk-free with fast delivery & expert support.
www.gustharts.com
Those 2-in-1 Stihl sharpeners are ok, but practising with hand filing is easier in the end. Spend a few quid on a gauge to check that the rakers are sufficiently deep to allow the teeth to cut. It is very easy to be ham-fisted with a 2-in-1 and to not generate sufficient hook (or preserve the meat behind the tip) to last any reasonable time. Get used to wearing the teeth evenly, and typically try to get all the teeth to be filed to the same degree (i.e sharpen to the level of the shortest tooth). You will find one side of the chain easier to sharpen until you get used to being more ambidextrous, so you can end up with a saw that cuts on the ****.
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
Early onset dementia.
My method is to secure the bar in a very stout vise,have the bar nice and horizontal and allow the chain to run freely. This is important,without a vise you are hamstringing yourself. Have at a height where you can work from above helps. Mark first tooth then proceed either with the two in one or I oft use a simple Stihl flat holder with file. The mark ensures you don`t cut twice.After heavy hardwood two stroke s or perhaps three taking care to line up the angles cut into the file guide.
I watched my mate do his saw on the ground one day with a round file only,he is/was a professional feller and the skill came from years of doing the same in the bush when felling.
I wont use any electric wheel units,they can take a lot of metal off used wrongly.
That's what I use. Maybe I need to find a way of holding the bar/saw steadier. I dont have a bench and viceThis is what you want, but never let your chain go blunt before you touch it up.
Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File Chainsaw Sharpener | Next Day Delivery
STIHL 2-in-1 Easy File: File & depth gauge tool in ONE! Effortless chainsaw sharpening at Gustharts.com. Shop risk-free with fast delivery & expert support.
That's a bit part of my problem, I have no coordination/dexterity with my left hand. Don't think that's going to change after 68 years of trying!
At a certain point it might end up being cheaper (and less frustrating) to get a few chains, and have a shop or a mate sharpen them for you in rotation. You can ruin chains in one bad sharpening attempt, unless you find a comfortable way to achieve an even filing, so the costs soon build up until you get the knack of it. Depending on the length of the bar it can also get quite tiring, if you are not comfy. Might not be worth it for you if it's proving to be too much a pain
hairlesshunter
Well-Known Member
Be there bought the stihi sharping kit and yes it works to a degree for so long in the end I just started buy a new chain
Or buy something like this or better
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Overlay
Well-Known Member
Only tip I would offer is never lend it out, it will cost you a new chain or even a blade ( please don’t ask how I know that) 
all I do is after a tank fill give it a trim up that keeps it tip top and also when you’ve finished, you don’t want to get it out later on and have to sharp it, light, little and after each tank
get an old blade and practice practice its like riding a bike once you’ve got you don’t forget
all I do is after a tank fill give it a trim up that keeps it tip top and also when you’ve finished, you don’t want to get it out later on and have to sharp it, light, little and after each tank
get an old blade and practice practice its like riding a bike once you’ve got you don’t forget
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Trick is to stand behind it so you pull it ‘into’ the metal, standing to the side makes it hard to get leverage
There are some superb videos on chain saw sharpening on YouTube.
Also Project farm did a superb review of hand chain saw sharpeners. Essential watching.
I use a Husqvarna chain sharpening guide and it's very good. I tend to have two chains in use and sharpen every other tank full. Use good quality files. I clamp the bar in a vice. Husqvarna chains have one coloured tooth so start there or otherwise use a Sharpie to mark the tooth. The Husqvarna guide also has a height gauge. It's really important to get into the gullet and ensure the tip is sharp.
In my experience I find it's easier to sharpen one side than the other ie bar pointing to the Right is easier and more natural. I also use a Lidl electric sharpener on well used chains which gets the angle correct on all the teeth.
I do really recommend zYou tube. It will soon become obvious to who knows what they are doing.
D
Also Project farm did a superb review of hand chain saw sharpeners. Essential watching.
I use a Husqvarna chain sharpening guide and it's very good. I tend to have two chains in use and sharpen every other tank full. Use good quality files. I clamp the bar in a vice. Husqvarna chains have one coloured tooth so start there or otherwise use a Sharpie to mark the tooth. The Husqvarna guide also has a height gauge. It's really important to get into the gullet and ensure the tip is sharp.
In my experience I find it's easier to sharpen one side than the other ie bar pointing to the Right is easier and more natural. I also use a Lidl electric sharpener on well used chains which gets the angle correct on all the teeth.
I do really recommend zYou tube. It will soon become obvious to who knows what they are doing.
D
Ruby Tuesday 2
Well-Known Member
They say practice makes perfect but I have been sharpening chains for 30 years , and I’m still **** at it,
Another one here that uses the Stihl 2-in-1 setup.
If you don't have a vice, get a piece of flat wood about an inch thick and put it under the bar. Then, when you apply the filing pressure, it presses the chain against the wood and keeps the whole thing still.
There are also small clamps (possibly Oregon) that you hammer into a large piece of wood, which then screws into the bar and holds it steady.
If you don't have a vice, get a piece of flat wood about an inch thick and put it under the bar. Then, when you apply the filing pressure, it presses the chain against the wood and keeps the whole thing still.
There are also small clamps (possibly Oregon) that you hammer into a large piece of wood, which then screws into the bar and holds it steady.
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