Chain saw sharpening
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countrryboy
Well-Known Member
Their is all sorts of weird and wonderful ways to sharpen saws.
1 trick i will say ( and I used to be terrible for ignoring) is keep changing ur files.
A sharp file makes a world off a difference.
And throw ur dull 1s away.
Hard work working with a dull file
And I think that's the 1 problem with the 2 for 1 type holders to awkward to spin ur file so ur using a fresh part off file.
A mate who is a very good chainsaw instructor recommends the roller type guides and says they're the best.
Also when ur sharpening remember its the underside edge that is cutting so u don't want to be pushing down too hard
While their is some good vids online, their are some pretty poor 1s too.
I think northern arb or chainsaw bars had quite good vids, or oregon official vids.
Depending just how bad ur left/bad hand is.
A simple way is just give it more rubs, if ur giving it 2 with right give it 4 with ur left.
And just keep an eye on cutter length if u notice 1 side getting longer an adjust strokes to suit.
As u get better u can reduce the rubs till both equal.
The cheap aldi chain grinders are OK, i sometimes will give a chain a quick tidy up with grinder when 1/2 used just tidies up my angles etc.
Been a long time since I've been shown but their are ways u can file both sides with ur right hand.
I ll have to have a play tomorrow, just cant remember.
But I think turning saw upside down and nose sprocket facing u.
Used to work with a wee Polish lad and he sharpened his saw vertically, put handle in the dirt and had bar vertically.
And his chains were sharp, and his rakers non existent.
1 trick i will say ( and I used to be terrible for ignoring) is keep changing ur files.
A sharp file makes a world off a difference.
And throw ur dull 1s away.
Hard work working with a dull file
And I think that's the 1 problem with the 2 for 1 type holders to awkward to spin ur file so ur using a fresh part off file.
A mate who is a very good chainsaw instructor recommends the roller type guides and says they're the best.
Also when ur sharpening remember its the underside edge that is cutting so u don't want to be pushing down too hard
While their is some good vids online, their are some pretty poor 1s too.
I think northern arb or chainsaw bars had quite good vids, or oregon official vids.
Depending just how bad ur left/bad hand is.
A simple way is just give it more rubs, if ur giving it 2 with right give it 4 with ur left.
And just keep an eye on cutter length if u notice 1 side getting longer an adjust strokes to suit.
As u get better u can reduce the rubs till both equal.
The cheap aldi chain grinders are OK, i sometimes will give a chain a quick tidy up with grinder when 1/2 used just tidies up my angles etc.
Been a long time since I've been shown but their are ways u can file both sides with ur right hand.
I ll have to have a play tomorrow, just cant remember.
But I think turning saw upside down and nose sprocket facing u.
Used to work with a wee Polish lad and he sharpened his saw vertically, put handle in the dirt and had bar vertically.
And his chains were sharp, and his rakers non existent.
Sounds like a plan, thanks John
countrryboy
Well-Known Member
Just to add i buy most of my saw spare parts from L & S Engineers.
Usually good prices.
I just bought 1 off those stump vices, the cheap non branded 1 was only 6 quid or something. Never used it yet.
Got photos off all the various guides etc, and guides for ur raker hieght
Wot size of chain are u running?
I'd say normal size 325 and 3/8s are easier to sharpen than the LP/pico chain with the wee narrow files.
Depending wot saw ur running might be worth going up to a 325 chain.
U will need a new bar thou ( quite often cheaper than pico bars and chains thou)
Usually good prices.
I just bought 1 off those stump vices, the cheap non branded 1 was only 6 quid or something. Never used it yet.
Got photos off all the various guides etc, and guides for ur raker hieght
Wot size of chain are u running?
I'd say normal size 325 and 3/8s are easier to sharpen than the LP/pico chain with the wee narrow files.
Depending wot saw ur running might be worth going up to a 325 chain.
U will need a new bar thou ( quite often cheaper than pico bars and chains thou)
Need to check later but saw is a wee battery Stihl msa120, pretty sure its a pico chain though
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
Do a plunge cut with the end of the bar at a suitable height, insert bar in for a few inches,turn off and sharpen. The downside is that you have to pull it out every few teeth but its a handy idea if you **** the chain on a stone or whatever onsite.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Or just buy 5 new chains and make your life easier!
countrryboy
Well-Known Member
Aye it will be.
Likely 3/8s pico but 325P is becoming more common.
I dunno if u could put a 325 on, ud have to check manual.
But if 3/8sP, ud need a new sprocket as well as bar and chain.
countrryboy
Well-Known Member
U can go the next version up and make a vice using a waist high stump and a small wedge.
Another thing ive forgot how to do. Never done it for 30 odd Yr.
Takes longer to make than it does to sharpen chain.
Cut a vertical groove/slot in top of stump, make it a wee bit wider at bottom.
Then u put a horizontal cut in, the idea being when u tap a wedge in it pushes the top of slot tight enough to hold ur bar.
I'm sure be plenty of vids online, type of thing folk like to show off with.
Blade929
Well-Known Member
Get one of the electric disc sharpeners and you'll never look back. I got one about 7 years ago for less than £30 of flea bay and cannot fault it. Just means you have to remove the chain to sharpen it which is no big issue. All the angles and depth scales are marked on it.
Ranger22
Well-Known Member
Get a stump vice
countrryboy
Well-Known Member
Had a bit of an experiment.
If u want to keep using ur right hand.
Treat ourself to a new file 1st.
U can turn saw upside down, sit it on left knee.
And u can file those cutters sort of across ur body.
Feels awkward to me, but doable.
Same if u do it vertically ( rear handle on knee or stump and saw vertically infrastructure off u) u can spin saw round and file downwards.
Both seem awkward to me, but seen occasional pros use both methods.
The wee Polish lad was a master at the vertical technique.
Dunno if a Polish thing or just the way he was shown as he worked in the Polish forests before he came over.
Just practicing enough, like anything else.
Freeforester
Well-Known Member
I’d stick with the 6” boning knife and the mincer, you’ll get a cleaner job than with a blunt chainsaw..
That's the one I use.
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