PARD Night Stalker 4K eX - built on IR & LRF.

A friend of mine has a pard nightstalker 4k ex with the bolt on IR and LRF unit.

He's followed the instructions at night to calibrate the LRF by placing the LRF box from the setup menu into the white flashing light using the X and Y coordinates.
The problem is the light is nowhere near the centre of the reticle.
Meaning you would have to range in the LRF box then reposition the shot to be in the centre of the reticle. This doesn't seem right to me, surely the whole idea is to range on the animal, press for hold over and take the shot.

In essence Is there a way to get the LRF box in the center of the reticle because at present it miles away.

Can anyone help.

Thanks

No, but in use it doesn't make any real difference, just a small adjustment to get alignment with target.

If you range a target with the LRF box, you will get a hold over point on your reticle.

If you've set up the ballistics correctly.

Thus move that point on to your target.

The lrf box will always stay where its positioned from factory. Once you zero the scope the ret will be adjusted to wherever. It could be minimal adjustment or alot this will determine where the lrf box is in relation to the ret. It really doesn't matter till you increase the mag

Is it way off from both x and Y axis? Or mainly vertical? Does he have a 0 or 20MOA scope rail?

He might be claw some back using a 20MOA rail if not already or adjustable mounts?

On the older Night stalker pards, you could peal off the ring on the LRF and mess the the adjustment screws to bring it more inline. However not sure if this is an option with the Ex unit.

This position will also change with zoom. Is it way off on base mag or top end?

I don’t have a Pard but this works for the Alpex.
Get a set of Burris XTR rings - they come with “shims” to “zero” the scope.
Zero the scope as normal.
Align a laser bore sight with your reticle at the zero distance - I do this at dusk against a telegraph pole (anything you can see the laser dot on will do)
Then re set the scope to 000 000 coordinates, undo the top half of the rings and swap the shims around until the reticle aligns with the laser dot.
Fire a few rounds at your normal zero target to fine tune the zero and you now have your laser close to the reticle centre so it doesn’t disappear when you zoom in.
You can also do this to move the laser box relative to the reticle to any position on the screen you prefer.
N

Gents, its way off in X and Y. The position can't be changed because the LRF unit is bolted to the scope in a fixed position, we will try and centre it up by adjusting the 4 screws in each corner to see if that helps.

It will make a difference at present in range if the reticle is on the centre of the target and the LRF sees beyond that not giving a true range.
It does seem like we would have to range and re-adjust onto the target.

Thanks for your comments.

CCC812 said:

Gents, its way off in X and Y. The position can't be changed because the LRF unit is bolted to the scope in a fixed position, we will try and centre it up by adjusting the 4 screws in each corner to see if that helps.

It will make a difference at present in range if the reticle is on the centre of the target and the LRF sees beyond that not giving a true range.
It does seem like we would have to range and re-adjust onto the target.

Thanks for your comments.

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Sorry to be blunt, but the correct explanation has been given and not understood.

You range using the BOX then move the supplied aiming point onto target. If using the ballistics, the actual crosshairs are irrelevant, as you should never be using them to aim anything, rifle or LRF.

To reuse your example. If your LRF box is exactly where the crosshair is, then you range it and you need to hold over by 5", then your crosshairs are off target still?

Emphasis cannot be stressed enough, if you want to use the scope with the ballistics calculator etc, then the position of the actual crosshairs is completely irrelevant to your shooting as all shots will be aimed with the separate crosshairs that come to indicate your drop.

Had more time to think, and also, if how it would not be an absolute arse of a thing to attempt, if it even works!

The digital LRF box will not shift, so you'll need to set up a very small target at a known distance, probably on a post, so for ease, if you are not ranging on target it just reads as an obviously incorrect distance. Then you'll need to trust that the LRF once you've adjusted it won't shift (again, if it even does adjust). I would imagine that the factory would have fitted those screws with loctite or something to stop it shifting as normal, so if you adjust, then you'd possibly break that fix?

But again, you're doing a lot of faff for absolutely no gain. You would be ranging against your crosshairs, but then as soon as you range, the BC will spit out a second aiming point to indicate your drop. So your crosshairs are now no longer remotely close to your target either...

Sorry to be blunt, I completely understand. It was a really simple question. The answer is no it can't be moved. I dont really need a lecture about how a LRF and ballistics work.

I think there is some confusion from all parties. I didn’t initially see that you were thinking / hoping it would aline with your crosshair. Only that you were unhappy that it was too far out of the way.

So the LRF splash isn’t supposed to be aligned with the crosshairs, it’s normally slightly up and left in most scopes…. On or around base mag. Theory being you can scan with optic with a wide field of view, spot said beast, range it, then zoom in, focus, take shot etc.

You are indeed correct that a night time the box can and should be moved / co-witnessed with the LRF splash. Again for most scopes, mounts, rail, calibre combinations the LRF splash shouldn’t be too far away. However you will find as you increase the mag it will seem like it’s moving further away. In some cases at mag max, will be off the screen completely and would need to back off slightly.

However if you have a very loopy cartridge, or the rail or mounts aren’t quite right or not torqued up properly…. The LRF splash can be waaaay of in the corner even at base mag. This shouldn’t be the case. In this instance, you would check mounting, torque, rings, rail combo etc.

If you’re using an air rifle or low recoil rimfire, you can buy fully adjustable mounts that means you can adjust elevation and windage, meaning you can intern alter the position of the LRF splash. In full bore set ups, not advised, and as mentioned you can shim the scope or add a new rail. Obviously re zeroing would be needed and won’t affect LRF splash horizontally. I’ve no idea about the Ex as I haven’t played with mine, but also as mentioned on a previous Pard, you could play with the LRF adjustment screws to change splash location….. but not the preferred method.

So how far up and away is it at base mag? Does it need adjusting…. Or just getting used to the fact it won’t… and really shouldn’t align with cross hairs? Assuming zero distance is 100m, and aligning box at the same distance at night?

CCC812 said:

Sorry to be blunt, I completely understand.

Click to expand...

I'll have to agree to disagree. Your posts suggest otherwise.

I wish you well trying to solve your problem with these digital scopes.

With the Pard Nightstalker EX there is a function to move the LRF box more central which the OP seems to have found, but it isn’t working? How this actually works is that the LRF doesn’t move and the X Y adjustment is actually moving the screen around relative to the LRF. Assuming you have tried this @CCC812 and it didn’t work?