Innomount Setup Query

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kieran222

kieran222

Well-Known Member
Just tried zeroing my 308 t3x rifle with my new one piece QR innomount. The instructions say to tighten the rail screw to 3NM or as tight as possible up to 3NM so that you can still release the QR leavers with the button with your thumb. There is no way that you can get anywhere near 3NM and be able to depress the QR buttons.

I tried to zero at a torque that I could depress the buttons and zero just kept wandering. Eventually torqued up to 3NM and zero holds, but it isn't possible to just depress the buttons and lift the leavers for a quick release.

Anyone had similar issues and how did you get round it.
 
I haven’t but I’ve never tried using a torque wrench.

I get them tight enough that they’re hard to open by hand and that seems to work.

They do offer weaver and picattinny bases, one is slightly narrower than the other. If you’ve got the narrower base with the wider rail (I can’t remember which is which) I could envisage a 308 causing movement.
 
andyk said:
I haven’t but I’ve never tried using a torque wrench.

I get them tight enough that they’re hard to open by hand and that seems to work.

They do offer weaver and picattinny bases, one is slightly narrower than the other. If you’ve got the narrower base with the wider rail (I can’t remember which is which) I could envisage a 308 causing movement.
Click to expand...
Mine is mounted directly onto the Tikka T3X rail.
 
Have four sets of Innomounts and set them all up the same - find them very reliable.

Don’t have a torque wrench so it’s all done by feel.

I remove the latch nut and put a tiny drop of Loctite 243 glue on the nut thread - I then tighten on the rail (scope pressed forward on the rail bar to be repeatable) so that the push latch button is really really stiff but doable.

Maybe a bit OTT, but zero hasn’t moved in years.
 
FISH BOY said:
Have four sets of Innomounts and set them all up the same - find them very reliable.

Don’t have a torque wrench so it’s all done by feel.

I remove the latch nut and put a tiny drop of Loctite 243 glue on the nut thread - I then tighten on the rail (scope pressed forward on the rail bar to be repeatable) so that the push latch button is really really stiff but doable.

Maybe a bit OTT, but zero hasn’t moved in years.
Click to expand...
What calibre have you used them with?
 
kieran222 said:
Mine is mounted directly onto the Tikka T3X rail.
Click to expand...

Just looked it up, it’s Weaver that’s narrower. If your Innomount is for Weaver it’ll still fit a Pic rail, but there will be a small amount of movement front and back when it’s not done up. If you can take a picture of the recoil lug on your Innomount I should be able to tell which it is.
 
andyk said:
Just looked it up, it’s Weaver that’s narrower. If your Innomount is for Weaver it’ll still fit a Pic rail, but there will be a small amount of movement front and back when it’s not done up. If you can take a picture of the recoil lug on your Innomount I should be able to tell which it is.
Click to expand...
It's the 50-30-19-00-400 INNOmount QD Mount for Tikka T3, 30 mm (19 mm)
 
Sorted now, torqued up the rail screws as tight as possible so that it's just about possible to depress the buttons to release the latches.
The final torque set was less than 2nm, which was well below the setting in the instructions. There is no way you could depress the latch release buttons at 3nm, so not sure why they put that in the instructions.

I'm a bit anal about torque settings on scopes as all of my accuracy issues in the past have been down to one or more loose screws on the scope rings, hence why I use a torque screwdriver. Since setting them to the correct torque I have never had any issues, just zero and then never check again unless a shot is off.
 
kieran222 said:
Just tried zeroing my 308 t3x rifle with my new one piece QR innomount. The instructions say to tighten the rail screw to 3NM or as tight as possible up to 3NM so that you can still release the QR leavers with the button with your thumb. There is no way that you can get anywhere near 3NM and be able to depress the QR buttons.

I tried to zero at a torque that I could depress the buttons and zero just kept wandering. Eventually torqued up to 3NM and zero holds, but it isn't possible to just depress the buttons and lift the leavers for a quick release.

Anyone had similar issues and how did you get round it.
Click to expand...

You need to turn the recoil lug around to suit pic rail. By default they come in weaver configuration. Undo the screw that secures the recoil lug and put it in the opposite way.
 
i was swapping from rifle to rifle with my innomount, despite having britannia picatinny rails on both rifles, once was snug, one not as snug, this meant i was adjusted them between swaps. whilst zero was still good enough to hit something close, i wasnt entirely convinced so i bought another scope so no swapping. i have kept the innomount and it now just stays permanently attached to my 22LR.
 
AJC said:
i was swapping from rifle to rifle with my innomount, despite having britannia picatinny rails on both rifles, once was snug, one not as snug, this meant i was adjusted them between swaps. whilst zero was still good enough to hit something close, i wasnt entirely convinced so i bought another scope so no swapping. i have kept the innomount and it now just stays permanently attached to my 22LR.
Click to expand...
At the moment my setup is two scopes, (glass and thermal) being swapped on a single rifle. Went through enough ammo to start another war yesterday swapping between scopes to check if zero was held. It was repeatable but only time will tell.
 
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