1st time reloading a question on .243 AOL

If you are measuring thE OAL from the case head to the bullet tip with a micrometer it’s easy to get differing measurements, even on the same round, as it is difficult to keep everything square. Had similar issues when I started but, as deeangeo has already suggested, bought a set of comparators and started measuring to the ogive with much better results.


I’ll seclmd that technique far more accurate
 
I’ll seclmd that technique far more accurate


I know in theory it should be not so much more accurate, but more consistent, especially with soft points.

However, I loaded 50 rounds earlier this evening, very expensive Norma Oryx, and found a lot of inconsistencies, even comparing length to the ogive !

I no longer drive myself mad tying to get them all an identical length, for the type of distances most people shoot whilst stalking, I really don't think it will make the slightest difference ?
 
I know in theory it should be not so much more accurate, but more consistent, especially with soft points.

However, I loaded 50 rounds earlier this evening, very expensive Norma Oryx, and found a lot of inconsistencies, even comparing length to the ogive !

I no longer drive myself mad tying to get them all an identical length, for the type of distances most people shoot whilst stalking, I really don't think it will make the slightest difference ?

Yes I think your absolutely right about minor inconsistencies and stalking distances, I use the measurement at the ogive as it is the most accurate possible way of getting consistent measurements to give me overall consistency.
It’s never good to measure bottom to tip as it makes no sense, however it’s interesting to see you have had such variances with one type of projectile even using the OGIVE measurement if they were that inconsistent I think I’d be looking at contacting the manufacturer, I’ve never had major inconsistencies with any one type of projectile just different manufacturers which is to be expected - but please be rest assured these are just my experiences I’m no loading expert I just know enough to reload my own reasonable ammo
 
if they were that inconsistent I think I’d be looking at contacting the manufacturer, I’ve never had major inconsistencies with any one type of projectile just different manufacturers which is to be expected -

Unless you're going to weigh each case, and batch them, and then weigh each bullet, and batch them, how much difference will a few thou' in ogive length make ? Given the inconsistent case, and bullet weights you see, you will drive yourself crazy.

The ammunition I loaded tonight, 7x64 156gn Norma Oryx. is for my go to boar stalking, and high seat rifle.

Day scope during the day, and Pulsar Trail from the seat, when it gets dark. Regardless of all these inconsistencies, it still shoots better than I can.

These are from the Pulsar Trail.

7x64 Trail 2.jpg7x64 Trail.jpg
 
Unless you're going to weigh each case, and batch them, and then weigh each bullet, and batch them, how much difference will a few thou' in ogive length make ? Given the inconsistent case, and bullet weights you see, you will drive yourself crazy.

The ammunition I loaded tonight, 7x64 156gn Norma Oryx. is for my go to boar stalking, and high seat rifle.

Day scope during the day, and Pulsar Trail from the seat, when it gets dark. Regardless of all these inconsistencies, it still shoots better than I can.

These are from the Pulsar Trail.

View attachment 127334View attachment 127335

NOT to be sniffed at at all And that’s from the batch that had a number of inconsistencies too ?
 
Make up a dummy round, Used case, no primer, drill a little hole across the neck, seat the bullet as best you know how, lock it in place with two drops of superglue or epoxy or dribble it in through the primer hole. Even assemble it with a smear of Loctite.

Or just copy a factory round that works OK.

Put seating die into press (the Lee ones are at least as good as others, particularly the "dead length" versions), twiddle the knob until it bottoms out on the dummy round (or known-good factory round), then crack on. Knowing that at least you are making things consistently, within the limitations of your tools. No more measuring necessary for hunting purposes.

Or just buy a comparator and do it the supposedly more precise way.

As said, measuring to the tip of a bullet is an exercise in frustration. It's to the ogive that matters, even then the ogive is not defined. It's just the size of the hole in your comparator (which might be made out of soft aluminium), which might correspond to that of the plug in your seating die, or not. Then whether that ogive diameter corresponds to that of your rifle's chamber, which will gradually enlarge as the leade wears out, is another matter.

And yes, bullets do vary, even the most expensive ones.
 
I agree with the above and have reloaded.243 for a number of years now buying once fired brass from this site. The inconsistency in COAL can come from several places, as people have already said, don't worry about tip measurements on soft points because they vary so much measure to the ogive and batch them. The other variations come from the cas length usually at the base. Using a head space attachment on your vernier you can measure the base to to the saami datum point on the shoulder and batch the cases. Put the 2 together and you have better consistency. Although having said that if like me you use your kit for vermin and deer then your better off concentrating on your breathing, sight picture and trigger control not enough hrs in the day to worry about the differences your talking about unless your pushing it really fast and out to far targets. The joys of chasing the 1 hole wonder at all distances when most manufacturers will guarantee 1moa at 100yrs increasing the further you go back. Get yourself the measuring kit, take your time and have fun building that near to perfect round for your needs. +/- of course!image.webp
 
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