Advice from a grumpy old man

I had no idea that you were limited on gun powder types

But I want you to understand my thinking. About 15 years ago I started to build Garand rifles. It started as a hobby, but it turned into something more.

I wound up building many of them and the picture below you can see how many I had back in 2016. At this stage I honestly don't know how many M1 rifles that I have.

I needed a standard load and I just didn't have time to work up a load for each rifle. As soon as a new rifle was built, I needed to test it. I just did not have time to mess around. I had to think like a military arsenal and I needed a safe standard load. And then I needed to test my Garand load in bolt action rifles. What I'm telling you is that I'm not guessing about 48 grains of IMR-4895.

And I am sure that this is a low recoil load that will work for you. Factory .30-06 ammo has too much recoil for most people. But think back to the military load. The 30-06 was intended to shoot a relatively mild load that would be easy for recruits to shoot. Look for a medium speed powder that will send a 150 grain bullet at 2750 to 2800 fps

So you must find one standard load and stick with it. And when you shoot that one load, you will learn. I can pick up one of my M1s and I can hit the 200 yard gong with ease. I'm not boasting and I'm not bragging. I just took the time to learn about one load.

And at this stage, I can pick up an M1 and tell you when it feels right. There is a lot involved when it comes to shooting and I can't explain how important it is to develop feel.

Resized_20160909_104631 (1).webp
 
Last edited:
I'm old and grumpy and I have no patience for dealing with young whippersnappers. But I have lots of experience and you should listen to me. Unless you are young enough to know everything.

So if you are just starting out and you want to hunt here's what you need to do:

1. Get a quality used .30-06 and
2. Get a simple handloading set up.

The reason why you should get a used .30-06 is because there are many thousands of unloved used rifles in this calibre. The .30-06 is unloved by stupid people who don't understand history or ballistics. But the ignorance of the vast unwashed herd can benefit you. Take advantage of the situation.

I own over 70 rifles in 30-06 calibre alone. I'm telling you this because I've handloaded for more .30-06 rifles than most people will ever see. And you need to start handloading because you need to know about only two loads. With the 150 grain bullet use 48 grains of IMR-4895. This will duplicate the ballistics of the .308. This load is easy to shoot and it is what you should shoot as you learn. You will learn the "feel" of your rifle and you will learn to shoot. I will get back to this load shortly, but on the subject of feel, your rifle must feel right.

So go into your local gunshop and ask to see the used .30-06 guns. Pick them up and see how they feel. A proper rifle feels warm, smooth and alluring to the touch. Do you remember how it felt to hold your wife back when she still loved you? Well now you get the idea. When you find a fine rifle you will feel happy and young at heart. And you will feel bright and joyful.

What works for me may not work for you. But look at Voere, Parker Hale and the older Tikkas. The Tikka M-65/LSA-65 series are some of the finest rifles ever made. I love those rifles and my M-65 battue feels so good that it is on my bed next to me as I type this. You should not tell anyone this, but the M-65/LSA-65 is far superior to the Tikka T3. ( I was given a T3 in a trade and I hated it so much that I gave it away to someone who needed a rifle)

Once you have your rifle you will need a scope. Now pay attention to me. A scope is not a piece of optics. A scope is first and foremost a gun sight and it MUST do two things. The scope must be faithful. It cannot betray you by shifting zero. The point of impact must never waiver. Secondly your scope's adjustment must be true. If you adjust the elevation by one minute, it must shift your point of impact by exactly one minute. Nothing more and nothing less.

I have a .30-06 Husqvarna 640 that was made in 1951. This rifle wears an old Leupold scope from 1995. It is a compact 3-9 scope and it is not an impressive optic. It has the old friction adjustments and somehow this scope never shifts zero. I have not adjusted it in 15 years and it is a very serious gunsight.

When you buy a scope you do not want a heavy boat anchor that will ruin the balance of your rifle. If your rifle is unbalanced, it is messed up. You can spend many thousands of dollars getting a fine piece of glass that will only ruin your shooting experience and make you miserable. For a hunting scope I really like the Swarovski Z3 3-10x42. This scope is lightweight and it will balance nicely on your gun. It will also hold zero and adjust properly.

30mm scope tubes are all the rage nowadays and you should keep in mind that as your scope gets bigger it gets heavier. 30 mm scopes are great for long range target shooting, but for hunting they are not necessary.

With a proper scope properly mounted load up some 150 grain bullets with 48 grains of IMR-4895. I will take a break now and return in a few minutes

I couldn’t agree anymore! Sadly, the market sentiment towards synthetic / carbon and high octane new rounds and digital optics will not change. Recently tried to entice a relative newcomer into some good glass on a sensible hunting rifle instead of digital, etc for hunting red deer in the hills.

Got this back in reply
 

Attachments

  • 1055F64F-5D61-4CE3-8FC0-8F51B2FEDF18.gif
    1055F64F-5D61-4CE3-8FC0-8F51B2FEDF18.gif
    624.4 KB · Views: 23
Unfortunately for us many of the Hodgson and IMR powders have been banned by our wise masters.

I have managed a similar thing with what we’re allowed though, a shade over 2,900fps with a 165gr Gameking out of my Sako.

Mind you, that bullet is to be banned soon…
 
The old m65, but with a new silvers pad, oil finish, and front checkering labels removed. In 6.5swede of course and a Zeiss 4x32

Next, the 7x57 Parker hale. Wins no beauty contests, but shoots well and I trust this rifle to chamber, extract and eject far more than any other due to the Mauser system of course. It’s getting new vintage scope rings and another scope shortly. As well as some steel bottom metal to replace the crappy alu solution the PH accountants came up with
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9372.webp
    IMG_9372.webp
    177.1 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_9373.webp
    IMG_9373.webp
    158.6 KB · Views: 17
I'm old and grumpy and I have no patience for dealing with young whippersnappers. But I have lots of experience and you should listen to me. Unless you are young enough to know everything

Now, if you're old enough to be wise, you should be wise enough to know the folly of sharing wisdom on here.

"Go to the range to learn",
"Stalk into range",
Keep things simple,
Support argument with evidence and resources...

In the internet age?!

(Love the thread. BTW)
 
I found out that your local commissars have banned IMR powders.

For your 150 grain load, Norma 203 looks like a good choice. Norma says that 50 grains is a starting load. That's what I would try if I could find any Norma 203
 
I love my 30-06 topped with a 1980s Kahles 2.2 - 9 x 42. Although it does have a laminated wood stock for weather resistance.
 
I found out that your local commissars have banned IMR powders.

For your 150 grain load, Norma 203 looks like a good choice. Norma says that 50 grains is a starting load. That's what I would try if I could find any Norma 203

Norma is also very hard to get here - not sure why given we get everything else Norma but for some reason the powder is rare.

The most reliably available powders are Viht and Reload Swiss, but even then availability is patchy.

We get some of the REACH compliant IMR and Hodgdon, but they’re eyewateringly expensive (think double the price of Viht or RS).
 
Vihtavuori N-160 has a similar burn rate to H-4350. That's what I would try in the .30-06 with 165 grain bullets.

N-540 looks like a good choice for the '06 with 150 grain bullets
 
Last edited:
Back
Top