Advice needed: fixing gun cabinet to studs?
- Thread starter Ravelian
- Start date
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
Different as in a coach screw has a domed head and is hammered in. These are hex headed and put in with a ratchet or spanner.
I have always known them defined as...The hammered in one with the domed head and square shank is a coach or carriage bolt, and that has a thread for a steel nut on the other end. The original coach screw had the wood screw thread with a square head but now they mainly come wirth hex heads.
Alan
Last edited:
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
I have always known them as
Coach bolt, dome head square shank and thread/nut.
Coach screw dome head screw thread.
Drive screw with either square or more common now a hex head and screw thread.
However I have found that not every area refers to things with the same name. Makes ordering stuff for jobs interesting at times
Oh yes, I can remember being routinely humiliated every time I went into Machin's Hardware in Droitwich as an innocent twenty year old asking for a funnel... only to be met with blank looks for five minutes while the staff all killed themselves laughing while I tried with words and wild gesticulation to describe the shape and function of a funnel...only too be told it was a Tundish I was after...B*stards...especially when the receipt came with funnel written on it...
They did the same when I asked for hammer handles...apparently they only sold hammer stales or even stails. Pah! A Pox on bleedin' storemen.
Alan
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
At least you didn’t want four candles.
At least you didn’t want four candles.
I am sure Ronnie Barker visited Machin's and was inspired...it was a fantastic shop though on about four different levels and you went through three or four areas until you ended up out the back in the yard...they had those lovely finger jointed wooden boxes of nails and rivets which you weighed out on a beam scale. Fantastic smell of wood, wax and paraffin. It had been there since the year dot and still had some of the original stock...I hope it is still there in the high street, though that was in the mid seventies.
Alan
Same Met always been helpful to me.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
We have Merritt and Fryers. My father has been using them that long he got a better price for timber than the Then Timber Center could buy it (from Merritt’s).
Used to get everything there you can still buy fork handles or candles for that matter.
Godfather68
Member
I have the same issue, as our house is totally timber frame. The location of my gun safes happened to be in a room being renovated, so I took the opportunity to remove some plasterboard, put in some extra studs behind the new plaster board so I was sure that all the 4 holes inside the safe would line up with stud walling. Then used 4 big coach screws as shown above into the stud walling and 4 into the concrete floor on both safes and they are not going anywhere! The other advice from the FAO was to put the safes into corners to limit the opportunities to attack the sides or pry the safe off the wall. The Thames Valley FAO that came to inspect mine was very content with where they were located and how they were attached to the walls.
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
I used to live in a farmhouse. Old stone walls with rawl bolts into the wall. Well they didn’t all hold properly. It was loose on the wall. I tried to prise it off, various methods bar cutting the bolts from the inside. Anyway I didn’t have any more bolts before the FEO came. Well he swung on the cabinet (door open) and decided it wasn’t coming off. Passed it ok for the job. I doubt very much it would happen now. But it took cutting the bolts off from inside the cabinet to remove it.
Layers of security are also well favoured by FEOs. So that may be as simple (I know that you are in rented accomodation) a lock on any gate that gives access to the rear of the premises. Pruning a hedge that screens a view of the property from the pavement or from the road so that callers can now be clearly seen by passers-by.
Or security lights such as now can be obtained very cheaply and don't need to be wired as they have a battery and solar panel. Also movement cameras that are very visible to callers in windows that cover the approaches to the property. Also again the very basic alarms that again now don't need to be wired in but use wireless to transmit.
Or security lights such as now can be obtained very cheaply and don't need to be wired as they have a battery and solar panel. Also movement cameras that are very visible to callers in windows that cover the approaches to the property. Also again the very basic alarms that again now don't need to be wired in but use wireless to transmit.
Godfather68
Member
Yes that was very much in line with what the FAO who came to me said. Fence, Gates, Dog, Safe not visible from outside, Alarm, Window Locks, High Quality safes all built a picture of a low risk.
I have two, very very visible movement cameras covering my property such that if you call or walk up to the front door that you can't but help see them just after you've already been recorded by them. The knack is to have them so they aren't seen until the person approaching has been already "captured" by them but visible such as they then become aware that they've been so "captured" and it's then too late to have avoided the camera.
Thanks for the "like". The cameras are set at a 30 degree or so angle on the inside of two front downstairs windowsills. One window is to the left of the entrance door the other to the right of the entrance door so that the field of view interlocks. So you get one recording from the left front of the person and another from the right front. That way whichever way they are looking, or looking ahead, you see the full face. The cameras are behind the upright frame of each window (or you could just use a square shaped board) so that you can't see them from the front on. So the first time you see them is when you've already walked into their field of vision. Hope it helps.
Ravelian
Active Member
Thanks all, very helpful info 
I think I'll settle for a compromise: will fix with 2 coach screws into the studs down one side of the cabinet and 2 wall anchors into the brickwork down the other (I doubt I'll be able to fix into the studs down both sides because the spacing will be too wide).
Really useful tips on the overall/layered security too, which I've taken on board. I'm installing sash window restrictors and wifi door alarms for the front door to the flat and the cabinet (they'll send notifications to my phone if there's any unauthorised entry). Already have a security camera for the front of house and inside. Hopefully that should get the FEO satisfied. Will report back with progress.
Nick
I think I'll settle for a compromise: will fix with 2 coach screws into the studs down one side of the cabinet and 2 wall anchors into the brickwork down the other (I doubt I'll be able to fix into the studs down both sides because the spacing will be too wide).
Really useful tips on the overall/layered security too, which I've taken on board. I'm installing sash window restrictors and wifi door alarms for the front door to the flat and the cabinet (they'll send notifications to my phone if there's any unauthorised entry). Already have a security camera for the front of house and inside. Hopefully that should get the FEO satisfied. Will report back with progress.
Nick
paul o'
Well-Known Member
I used lag bolts with washers for mine in the loft ,also drill if not already there more hols in the base of cab and fix there aswell ,this will work on studs but you may have 24" spacing or less so add 3/4 ply to reinforce the wall with lots head screws anti tamper then bolt with toggle bolts to gain a strong fixing , any fixing can be pulled out of a wall if the buggers have a mind to so you can only prevent access at best .
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