Blaser Saddle Mount Tension Tuning

TundB

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

I am trying to utilize one digital scope on 2 different Blaser R8 barrels and unfortunately same tension adjustment doesn’t give same clamping forces on different barrels which I feel high resistance on one barrel and low resistance on another while closing the levers. However the scope doesn’t move on lower tensioned barrel which I am not sure if it’s rock steady or not and I don’t want a trial and error with firing it.

Hence I am trying to find a comprimised tension that will work both barrels. How can I find out the minimum clamping tension that will hold the scope in its place without losing the zero?

Tia.
 
Hi all,

I am trying to utilize one digital scope on 2 different Blaser R8 barrels and unfortunately same tension adjustment doesn’t give same clamping forces on different barrels which I feel high resistance on one barrel and low resistance on another while closing the levers. However the scope doesn’t move on lower tensioned barrel which I am not sure if it’s rock steady or not and I don’t want a trial and error with firing it.

Hence I am trying to find a comprimised tension that will work both barrels. How can I find out the minimum clamping tension that will hold the scope in its place without losing the zero?

Tia.
The min needed is a firm press with thumbs on the blaser levers, should meet good resistance so the lever noticeably leaves a mark/ depress in your thumb. A torque wrench on the blaser star screw when lever is closed (according to instructions close levers are how you adjust the opposite side star screw) would help Id correct torque. However the blaser star uses a very fine flat headed screwdriver which you might struggle to get a wrench bit that is fine enough to fit in the slots.

Fwiw, I had a similar situation between two blazer barrels; ended up getting separate mounts / scopes as the difference was too great to find a mid point of bit that was firm enough to hold zero.

You could switch to picitiany rail mount on both barrels and 1 mount for your scope- which might remove the need for sharing blaser saddles, but this might be an expensive route.
 
Innomount have a series called ZERO. They have a built-in torque mechanism which is supposed to fix the mount with the same torque regardless of the base. No idea if this really works.

Innomount Zero for Blaser
I use this on my thermal, works perfectly. Let’s me swap the scope across different calibres knowing that the tension is spot on every time. Blaser mounts are excellent overall imo, but you can’t rely on being able to swap a scope over different barrels without adjusting the tension screw (Blaser themselves state this), I was lucky on 2 of my barrels that shared the same amount of tension on Blaser mounts but not others, the innomount zero sorts this out reliably. For the OP, I personally wouldn’t trust a compromise over two barrel tensions, get it right on one and trust it.
 
I use my thermal scope on three different rifles and a couple of Blaser barrels. Scope is in Tier One picatinny rings and the rifles have a rail on top. Contessa do one for the Blaser barrels, and I’ve had no problems with the scope returning to zero.
Just be careful with the screws on the Blaser rail, they’re made of cheese!
 
I use my thermal scope on three different rifles and a couple of Blaser barrels. Scope is in Tier One picatinny rings and the rifles have a rail on top. Contessa do one for the Blaser barrels, and I’ve had no problems with the scope returning to zero.
Just be careful with the screws on the Blaser rail, they’re made of cheese!

This is definitely the way to go, I have done the same. I used the non QD version because it sits lower, I did swap the allen bolts for thumb screws though for ease of swapping in the field. It holds zero very well.
 
Thanks for the replies. To be honest I am not a fan of picatiny rails, and I’ve never liked them. Moreover a picatiny rail over a Blaser is just outrage. 😀

Today I had some time to play with them. It looks like clamping forces between smallest caliber and largest caliber is similar which i want to exchange digital scope over anyway. Mid caliber definetely needs a different tension adjustment - needs around a quarter turn relaxing.

I might be able to use same mount between mid caliber and smaller caliber which produces a way less recoil hence I will get away with less clamping force which I’ve tried and tested with no issue in holding zero. However I don’t think I will be using same saddle mount between mid and large caliber as there will be less clamping force on a heavy recoil magnum caliber.

OK, mid caliber goes to my woodland deer stalking with dedicated glass on it and I will exchange the digital scope over heavy and small calibers.

Now question is that I played with the tension screws have I lost my zero?
 
The easy answer with a Blaser is simply more mounts ans copes, but this seems a bit wasteful when your scope can hold multiple zeros.

No, as long as the tension screws are tight enough, you wont lose your zero. The mount references on the fixed lugs opposite the tension screws. If the fixed lugs and the notches in the receiver are clean, nothing changes.
 
Depending on how much this is worth to you a good machinist should be able to take a smidge off the mounting recesses on your middle barrel to balance them across your barrels.
 
Thanks for the replies. To be honest I am not a fan of picatiny rails, and I’ve never liked them. Moreover a picatiny rail over a Blaser is just outrage. 😀

.....
I think you overread the point in my initial post saying that the Innomount Zero is available for the original Blaser configuration. No need for a picatinny rail.
 
I think you overread the point in my initial post saying that the Innomount Zero is available for the original Blaser configuration. No need for a picatinny rail.
Thanks Steff. My intention is not to buy any other mounts but just utilize whatever I have already had. I already have 2 Blaser saddle mounts and one Innomount which is attached to the digital scope I have. I know about Innomount Zero - not sold in the UK and I also know about Dentler Vario - quite expensive and also not sold in the UK, which will sort out what I am looking for.
 
In regards, to the star head screws on a blaser mount, I do know why a company has not produced a fitted star headed bit that would fit precisely
into a blaser mount, rather than using a single bladed screwdriver from blaser as it not as if it such a part would not be popular!

Surly on this forum there is metal fabricator who could produce one?
 
Thanks Steff. My intention is not to buy any other mounts but just utilize whatever I have already had. I already have 2 Blaser saddle mounts and one Innomount which is attached to the digital scope I have. I know about Innomount Zero - not sold in the UK and I also know about Dentler Vario - quite expensive and also not sold in the UK, which will sort out what I am looking for.
I didn't get on with the Dentler Vario. My advice would be to look for another solution.
 
In regards, to the star head screws on a blaser mount, I do know why a company has not produced a fitted star headed bit that would fit precisely
into a blaser mount, rather than using a single bladed screwdriver from blaser as it not as if it such a part would not be popular!

Surly on this forum there is metal fabricator who could produce one?
Terrible design which comes quite sticked when you first purchased them and you have to apply some force to turn the screws and you scratch their head with the sharp bit of Blaser screwdriver. They clearly designed it like this to sale their screwdrivers. They have changed them now and sale them as Sauer 505 saddle mount. Same mount with allen screws on tension side.
 
My T ceptor is on a blaser direct mount fit, I swop that over from day scope if required on 22 rimmy, 22 wmr, 22 hornet & 204 I went on each mount for middle of the road tension on all calibres and honestly I’ve never had one problem, only time I had found a big difference is between R93 and R8 barrels
I have add ons to day scopes NV and only use thermal as required on the small calibres which all work, might be worth having a scope change and use NV leaving the thermal as one caliber, I still find nv more favourable and thermal is when white out cuts in
Good luck
Phil
 
Thanks Steff. My intention is not to buy any other mounts but just utilize whatever I have already had. I already have 2 Blaser saddle mounts and one Innomount which is attached to the digital scope I have. I know about Innomount Zero - not sold in the UK and I also know about Dentler Vario - quite expensive and also not sold in the UK, which will sort out what I am looking for.

For ref, I got my innomount zeros from Titanium Gunworks in Germany, Klaus is very easy to deal with. You don’t pay German VAT, just shipping and UK VAT on import. Was a quick service, quicker than some UK suppliers tbh!
 
Terrible design which comes quite sticked when you first purchased them and you have to apply some force to turn the screws and you scratch their head with the sharp bit of Blaser screwdriver. They clearly designed it like this to sale their screwdrivers. They have changed them now and sale them as Sauer 505 saddle mount. Same mount with allen screws on tension side.Ah… that interesting regarding the 505 mounts, Do you know if they are compatible with a blaser barrel? Ah… that interesting regarding the 505 mounts, Do you know if they are compatible with a blaser barrel?
Ah… that interesting regarding the 505 mounts, Do you know if they are compatible with a blaser barrel?
 
The min needed is a firm press with thumbs on the blaser levers, should meet good resistance so the lever noticeably leaves a mark/ depress in your thumb. A torque wrench on the blaser star screw when lever is closed (according to instructions close levers are how you adjust the opposite side star screw) would help Id correct torque. However the blaser star uses a very fine flat headed screwdriver which you might struggle to get a wrench bit that is fine enough to fit in the slots.

Fwiw, I had a similar situation between two blazer barrels; ended up getting separate mounts / scopes as the difference was too great to find a mid point of bit that was firm enough to hold zero.

You could switch to picitiany rail mount on both barrels and 1 mount for your scope- which might remove the need for sharing blaser saddles, but this might be an expensive route.
I have two thermals and one has two different mounts for the same sight, one for Blaser and one for Picatinny.
The two rifles with Picatinny rails both need different tension to lock up nicely. The rails are almost the same width but it’s enough to need adjustment and very easy to just turn the adjusting nuts 2 flats different when changing rifles. A one minute job.
The instructions with mine suggest a minimum of force to set the lever firmly.
No need to use excessive
force.
Ken.
 
Back
Top