Bonding Plastic to Concrete

Klenchblaize

Well-Known Member
Any suggestions for a cost-effective method (compound) for bonding short lengths of composite decking to external concrete steps?

To use tubes of stuff like "No More Nails" or any of the other high strenth grab adhesives, at c£10 per pop, is just not on.

Thanks

K
 
Any suggestions for a cost-effective method (compound) for bonding short lengths of composite decking to external concrete steps?

To use tubes of stuff like "No More Nails" or any of the other high strenth grab adhesives, at c£10 per pop, is just not on.

Thanks

K
A dry dust free surface and use a self- leveling compound as that keys well to concrete as the agent (assuming it not a vertical surface)
 
A dry dust free surface and use a self- leveling compound as that keys well to concrete as the agent (assuming it not a vertical surface)
Thanks Tim, but which compound and does it have "grab" properties or will I need to randomly drill into the decking to provide a 'key' for the gloop?

Ta

K
Ps: I think I know the answer to the latter as someone who warms to a bit of over-engineering!
 
Thanks Tim, but which compound and does it have "grab" properties or will I need to randomly drill into the decking to provide a 'key' for the gloop?

Ta

K
Ps: I think I know the answer to the latter as someone who warms to a bit of over-engineering!
Well it grabs concrete very well! I would OVE the slab with what ever compound you use with a rotary wire wheel on a grinder to open up the grain for a key. you will need a material to take up any miss match in the slab and decking (decent bed)
 
Have used Mapei Self Levelling compound before and fixed fixings to it which has been fine - this is available from screwfix

I can’t advise on stiction to plastic
 
I think you will need a very flexible adhesive if one is available as the decking will expand and contract due to temperature considerably more than the concrete in the situation you described.
Perhaps look on specialist flooring contractors suppliers for a trowel on adhesive.
I'm assuming you want to use the decking to keep a visual theme.
 
I'm assuming you want to use the decking to keep a visual theme.
Only if there are leftovers after main project completion! Clearerly there will be an awful lot of offcuts but few will be of the required width.

It may be it has to be non-slip tiles or thin stone slabs but if I can avoid the need to invest in stone cutting equipment I will.

K
 
If the gap is not too wide use caulk? If the gap is too wide then use a fillet of wood, or cast concrete paving slab to fill the gap and then caulk whatever gap the remains? As others have said the issue of movement and in cold or hot weather expansion may be an issue? Assuming it is a gap you are trying to fill?

Or are you wanting to lay the decking on top of the steps? To make steps now topped with decking?

In which case maybe a more permanent fix is better such as drilling the decking and the concrete and using some sort of stud to keep it from slipping off? That may have an advantage that when the decking deteriorates you just lift it off the studs and put a new piece in place?
 
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SBR and cement mixed into a slurry, spread generously over concrete, prime boards with the slurry and stick down.
We use slurry on copes, step treads and paving to help bond to mortar beds, I have no idea if it would stick composite decking down but don't see why it wouldn't.
 
Only if there are leftovers after main project completion! Clearerly there will be an awful lot of offcuts but few will be of the required width.

It may be it has to be non-slip tiles or thin stone slabs but if I can avoid the need to invest in stone cutting equipment I will.

K
You could look at fitting nosing tiles and cement the section left going to the riser behind. Coloured cement is a option for a tidy up job with some non slip capacity
 
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