Burdock Control

[venery]

I was interested in the posts about controlling bracken. After years on the shoot and having to virtually shave my two WHV's after beating because of Burdock burrs I decided to wage war on the plants. I read that Burdock has a two year life cycle, the first after germinating is to grow big flat leaves to store energy into the root and then in spring the second year the root grows the large multi stemmed bush like plant with all the burrs. In late summer the root dies leaving dead stems with large numbers of burrs ready to snag beaters clothes and dogs. For one reason or another back pack spraying was not available in spring so decided to try and break the two year life cycle with a machete. Out with dog twice a day and cut every root, stem and leaf I came across in 5 infested patches plus single isolated plants beaters had inadvertently spread. I removed last years and this years bushes with burrs and carried to the bonfire pit. Recently I had to do a second cut as roots grew small stumpy cluster stems with burrs growing on very short stems. So basically over next two years I am trying to break the life cycle of this pest.
Hopefully I can add spraying to the fight next spring. Has anyone successfully used the Sheffield Steel tactic before. ?

 

[AGR]

I was interested in the posts about controlling bracken. After years on the shoot and having to virtually shave my two WHV's after beating because of Burdock burrs I decided to wage war on the plants. I read that Burdock has a two year life cycle, the first after germinating is to grow big flat leaves to store energy into the root and then in spring the second year the root grows the large multi stemmed bush like plant with all the burrs. In late summer the root dies leaving dead stems with large numbers of burrs ready to snag beaters clothes and dogs. For one reason or another back pack spraying was not available in spring so decided to try and break the two year life cycle with a machete. Out with dog twice a day and cut every root, stem and leaf I came across in 5 infested patches plus single isolated plants beaters had inadvertently spread. I removed last years and this years bushes with burrs and carried to the bonfire pit. Recently I had to do a second cut as roots grew small stumpy cluster stems with burrs growing on very short stems. So basically over next two years I am trying to break the life cycle of this pest.
Hopefully I can add spraying to the fight next spring. Has anyone successfully used the Sheffield Steel tactic before. ?

No, but interestingly (to me anyway), I had an odd few pheasants try to eat the damn things! After a couple died of starvation I realised what was happening and managed to relieve a few with burrs stuck in their throats.
I'm sure I've seen Ray Mears cook the roots as they are a source of carbohydrate. Perhaps you could adk him round for a meal?

 

[venery]

I will tell the Keeper about birds choking on burrs and he will have everybody out .
The roots have certainly got a lot of stored energy not sure about the taste

 

[Longstrider]

I have been using the (not quite Sheffield) steel approach for the past 4 or 5 years. Numbers of 'mature' burr-bearing plants has reduced dramatically.
My spaniel can find any burr available, anywhere, at any time. I swear walking him for 10 minutes in Death Valley would result in him (a) coming back wet, and (b) having at least 2 burrs on him somewhere.
My efforts have been rewarded with not yet having to tease a single burr out of his fur so far this year. I walk him through the wood where I've been 'having at' the burdock every day so it must be working !
Wish I could do something similar for Goose Grass (Sticky Willie / Cleavers)

I have a tool that I use for this job that consists of about 18" of very heavy (50mm wide x 3mm thick) mechanical hacksaw blade set into the end of a 24" axe helve. With the teeth left on the saw side and the back ground down to the sort of edge I'm known for, it fair whistles through most soft and semi-soft undergrowth with virtually no effort and no bending over to cut burdock close to the ground. I call it the 'Bastard' because it's not only half way between a machete and an axe, it cuts thistles and brambles like a ... well you get the idea

The roots can be pulled or dug up and used in the kitchen. How else would they make Dandelion and Burdock pop ?

 

[countrryboy]

I have been using the (not quite Sheffield) steel approach for the past 4 or 5 years. Numbers of 'mature' burr-bearing plants has reduced dramatically.
My spaniel can find any burr available, anywhere, at any time. I swear walking him for 10 minutes in Death Valley would result in him (a) coming back wet, and (b) having at least 2 burrs on him somewhere.
My efforts have been rewarded with not yet having to tease a single burr out of his fur so far this year. I walk him through the wood where I've been 'having at' the burdock every day so it must be working !
Wish I could do something similar for Goose Grass (Sticky Willie / Cleavers)

I have a tool that I use for this job that consists of about 18" of very heavy (50mm wide x 3mm thick) mechanical hacksaw blade set into the end of a 24" axe helve. With the teeth left on the saw side and the back ground down to the sort of edge I'm known for, it fair whistles through most soft and semi-soft undergrowth with virtually no effort and no bending over to cut burdock close to the ground. I call it the 'Bastard' because it's not only half way between a machete and an axe, it cuts thistles and brambles like a ... well you get the idea

The roots can be pulled or dug up and used in the kitchen. How else would they make Dandelion and Burdock pop ?

Have u seen a sandwich brush axe?
It's a handy tool a d i think similar to wot ur describing.

In the old days u used to get tools designed for levering thistle and docks out with the roots too.
I've never seen the tool but had it described of old timers years ago.
Thi k it had 2 prongs wound go down into ground and a lever on the back to lever them out ground.
A lot off the old ways are still the best if u have time.

Farm workers would clear fields/farms every year like that.

 

[Longstrider]

Have u seen a sandwich brush axe?
It's a handy tool a d i think similar to wot ur describing.

In the old days u used to get tools designed for levering thistle and docks out with the roots too.
I've never seen the tool but had it described of old timers years ago.
Thi k it had 2 prongs wound go down into ground and a lever on the back to lever them out ground.
A lot off the old ways are still the best if u have time.

Farm workers would clear fields/farms every year like that.

If you mean the old "heavy hook shaped blade on a yard of hickory handle" type of tool then yes, I've seen plenty. I always found them hard work TBH. Too heavy to swing all day comfortably and never very good at keeping an edge. The Bastard has a blade of M4 tool steel that keeps a wicked edge and is light enough to swing one-handed for hours. A flick of the wrist and it cuts on the back-swing too when cutting through swathes of nettle/dock/new growth bramble etc.

The old 'up-rooters' were a tool for the slow and methodical approach. Great for harvesting burdock roots or horseradish roots though My grandma had one and made a HUGE batch of horseradish each year, potting it up into jam jars and selling it to others in the village. No-one ever needed telling when it was being made .. the whole village reeked of it when she minced it all up by hand in the garden

 

[finbar]

Sounds like a ragwort fork all the horsey folk will know what your on about

 

[countrryboy]

If you mean the old "heavy hook shaped blade on a yard of hickory handle" type of tool then yes, I've seen plenty. I always found them hard work TBH. Too heavy to swing all day comfortably and never very good at keeping an edge. The Bastard has a blade of M4 tool steel that keeps a wicked edge and is light enough to swing one-handed for hours. A flick of the wrist and it cuts on the back-swing too when cutting through swathes of nettle/dock/new growth bramble etc.

The old 'up-rooters' were a tool for the slow and methodical approach. Great for harvesting burdock roots or horseradish roots though My grandma had one and made a HUGE batch of horseradish each year, potting it up into jam jars and selling it to others in the village. No-one ever needed telling when it was being made .. the whole village reeked of it when she minced it all up by hand in the garden

No if u Google sandvik brush knife/axe a photo will come up.
I had to Google it as I had no idea wot its proper name was.

Just a 6"ish blade, basically like a junior hack saw attached to an axe shank, with a sharp blade.
Quite a handy tool for some jobs.
I think it sounds semi similar to ur home made tool.

 

[Donkey Basher]

I discovered by accident that if you wait till the burdocks are fully grown but still green, hence not dried & trying to stick to anything vaguely resembling a jumper or spaniel, then cut the stems just above the ground the plant does not grow back.

 

[shakey jake]

Does nobody else feel its wrong to remove a native plant that must be a food source for something? Ive got spaniels so understand the agro but doesnt sit right with me

 

[scoby3030]

Does nobody else feel its wrong to remove a native plant that must be a food source for something? Ive got spaniels so understand the agro but doesnt sit right with me

Burdock is an amazing plant, it's used for all sorts of ailments.

 

[Greenmist]

I use a weed slasher, although not as good as a vintage tool I had many years ago, shaped like a letter J, the bottom was a flat blade