Can this be welded?

[Alantoo]

Thanks Alan - those are interesting but out of my price range!

tim this is my problem - I do t even know what a route diamaeter is!

I think it is an issue of the auto spell checker...what both of you are referring to is normally spelled "root diameter". Major diameter is across the peaks of the threads, the minor or root is the diameter of the core cylinder at the troughs of the threads.

Alan

p.s. With tears in my eyes and a heavy heart I would not bother to try and repair that shaft...if it broke in transit it was not very robust to start with. It broke at its weakest point, but was maybe stressed elsewhere. If you then spend ages repairing that even in the unlikely event of making the repair stronger than the original break point, it may well have other weak points ready to fail a few millimetres along.

Cut your losses, use as-is, or scrap IMHO.

But then I have a prejudice against all things cast iron...not least because of all my fellow artist blacksmiths who were put out of business by the inferior but cheap to mass produce Victorian cast iron ornamental industry! Long memories of resentment!

 

[Tim.243]

I think it is an issue of the auto spell checker...what both of you are referring to is normally spelled "root diameter".

Alan

That is the root of the problem lol....

So know we have rooted out the possible fixes there is a pressing fix to be done lol

Tim.243

 

[Alantoo]

That is the root of the problem lol....

So know we have rooted out the possible fixes there is a pressing fix to be done lol

Tim.243

Ouch! Think I will go to another thread now...

Alan

 

[tom308w]

At a guess about 1.250 taking off .250 per side for the depth of the thread, so a + .750 hole with a .750 stainless shaft. with those big threads there is loads of room to drill a hole and weld into the pin

blend the weld and the bottom of the route!

If you want to bring it up and spend the 1/2 day of making me tea while the battle is going on to fix it then you are welcome. No charge.


Tim.243

Brilliant offer Tim your a top man atb Tom that's what this forum is about folks helping each other

 

[toxo]

Back in the day I was a fabricator welder. I was of the opinion that cast couldn't be welded, at least not properly. Then I worked at a place where, amongst other stuff they had a section where they specialised in cast welding cracked engine blocks. They would build an oven around the bl;ock and gas jets were placed along both sides and left burning overnight. In the morning the block was cherry red. Two of the older guys would strip to the waist apart from leather aprons and take turns to weld it. They used the longest fiercest oxy-acetylene torch that I've ever seen and it was covered in asbestos cloth and bound with wire. They used cast welding rods that were about 3/8" square. The lard just dripped off them and every now and then they would plunge the torch into a bucket of water. Never seen anything like it before or since.

Of course those engine blocks weren't taking the torque of the cider thingy but I just thought I'd mention it because these things get lost in time.
Maybe a spigot plus gas welding whilst cherry red in a blacksmiths forge might do it but I certainly wouldn't guarantee the result.

Depending on how much use it gets I think I would go with the studding idea. It needn't cost that much. I recently bought a 3ft length of the same size studding that our reloading dies are made of for very little money. In fact it was the price of the nuts that I baulked at.

ATB with it anyway.

 

[finnbear270]

I rescued some Castolin Eutectics pure Nickel rods, from the skip on a shutdown in a cement works, they have made me a small fortune over the past twenty years.

 

[jthyttin]

I need to put 12t of pressure downwards but I'm sure m36 would be ok.

I'd say you need a very long handle and good lubricant on that original screw to have it exert 12t pressure.

I'm kind of rusty but from the dimensions the mechanical advantage may be around 10x minus the friction.

 

[finnbear270]

I'd say you need a very long handle and good lubricant on that original screw to have it exert 12t pressure.

I'm kind of rusty but from the dimensions the mechanical advantage may be around 10x minus the friction.

I'm hearing these latest posts in a Stephen Hawking voice!

 

[VSS]

Looks to me like it's the thread off a big old blacksmith's vice. I have a couple of them, and that fitting at the end is identical. They crop up fairly often at farm sales, so if you're unsuccessful in repairing this one then I don't think you'll have any trouble finding another.

 

[Alantoo]

Looks to me like it's the thread off a big old blacksmith's vice. I have a couple of them, and that fitting at the end is identical. They crop up fairly often at farm sales, so if you're unsuccessful in repairing this one then I don't think you'll have any trouble finding another.

That was my first thought but I do not think it was from a leg vice. All mine are forged from steel or wrought iron...some of the threads were braized on coils...

But the nut is the clincher...all the leg vices I have seen have a much longer nut, with an extended nose with a raised rib which locates in the hole punched through the standing leg/jaw. It is a loose fit in the standing jaw hole so it can articulate and accommodate the changing angle of the thread produced by the arc of the moving jaw. The OP's does not, it has a twin eared flange. The leg vices also have a cap to cover the the thread and keep the crud out, though some of the end plugs come out and are missing.

I did wonder whether the eBay vendor had said what it had come from.

Alan

 

[BRYAN]

If I thought my postman could break such an item I would be sure to never get on the wrong side of him.
Would a farm trailer jack screw do the job? I mean the thingy that holds the drawbar up.

 

[Alantoo]

If I thought my postman could break such an item I would be sure to never get on the wrong side of him.
Would a farm trailer jack screw do the job? I mean the thingy that holds the drawbar up.

Probably fine if you happen to know of one that is readily available. Probably expensive if new. Most farmers would not want to let one go for nothing even from a junk trailer. And after you have trawled the local farms or agricultural engineers/dealers for a second hand one someone has got to unweld the nut from the trailer draw bar...

A pair of these in tandem would be readily available, adaptable and very cheap...With a SWL of 4 tonnes they should be good for around double that before failure.

https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/2980.html

Or just use a hydraulic jack.

Alan

 

[Essexsussex]

thanks Alan

that's what I'll be using if this more aesthetically pleasing alternative doesn't fix!

thanks to all for great advice and offers of help.

ES

 

[rodp]

thanks Alan

that's what I'll be using if this more aesthetically pleasing alternative doesn't fix!

thanks to all for great advice and offers of help.

ES

Those are 4ton SWL, they don't exert 4t they can just take that load. Same as a 5t ratchet strap, pull it as tight and hard as you can but it will only exert a force of app 1/2t.

 

[Alantoo]

Those are 4ton SWL, they don't exert 4t they can just take that load. Same as a 5t ratchet strap, pull it as tight and hard as you can but it will only exert a force of app 1/2t.

Hmm...are you sure you have that quite right?

Are you saying that my 5 tonne SWL bottle jack (which has a not dissimilar sized thread) can only lift 1/2tonne, or my 2 tonne SWL Demag hoist can only lift 400kg. ? The forklifts and telehandler I have had have all coped with their marked SWLs and occasionally over their SWL at times.

I seem to remember the SWL was based on something like 2 or 2.5 times safety factor before failure depending on whether humans were being supported or just loads.

Providing you can overcome the friction (maybe use a thrust bearing) and with a long enough lever I don't see why you could not wind those to their failure point.

When I have used ratchet straps as come-alongs I have certainly shifted more than 1/2 tonne. True it was not with the little ratchet lever. I wind it up tight with the ratchet and then have used either a lever in the middle to lift the strap or twisted it in Spanish windlass style.

Alan