Could do with some good advice.

BRACES of Bristol - Sauer 100 XTA Stainless Package
Hi. If the bolt/screw is that tight, it’s either bottomed out in the hole, thread has picked up or it’s just murder tight. If it hasn’t bottomed out or picked up, it might be easier to gently drill the head off. Depending on the application, you should have enough thread sticking out to easily grip it and remove it. Ezee outs and the like need a deeper hole. As someone has already said, you might have more joy with a ratchet and bit.

Good luck.
 
I would forget about heat to be honest. You have a massive heatsink that is your rifle! To get enough heat into it for expansion you will do untold damage. You certainly won’t melt anything without destroying your gun.
As has been mentioned earlier, put the other ring on and fit the scope, this might align the rings and unbind the stuck cross screw. There is no hole for it to bottom in and as they are steel rings I would be surprised if it has picked up as is common in aluminium. My best guess would be the shank has bound against the pic rail due to a slight misalignment, probably down to tolerances.
 
Get yourself a decent torqs driver , like a large screwdriver that you can change the ends, you get more pressure on the head rather than an allen key type jobbie..
or if i get a similar thing happen at work i would get a small G clamp and if possible clamp the torqs bit in place then use a 1/4 spanner to turn the torqs bit to break the seal , hard to explain but i do it all the time here.
 
Strongman said:
I would forget about heat to be honest. You have a massive heatsink that is your rifle! To get enough heat into it for expansion you will do untold damage.
Click to expand...
You only need to heat the screw itself, which is very easy to do and isn't going to damage anything.
 
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i’ve found a electric soldering iron heating the screw up gently let it cool naturally and the two times i’ve had to use that method it has worked 100% and no damage to anything it’s worth a go
 
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Update:
The screw is out.
Was going to take the rail off the barrel but as it’s actually a Weaver and not a pic. rail it had 1 screw underneath the ring, doh.
As the screw head was looking moody I decided to partially drill it out to see if it eased anything.
Once I’d drilled all signs of Torx out of the head and my drill nearly melted I stopped….the screw then only needed fingers to undo it. Looks like the underside of the head was binding in one area and that possibly twisted something.
Tried to buy an Allen head screw but failed, so I will look at going up a size and re- tapping the threaded hole to suit.
Thanks very much for all replies, Ken.
Shiny area at the top.
 

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This is the monster with its new Burris ‘Low’ rings in place.
Ken.
 

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Ken,
Glad you got sorted. Don’t go for a bigger size thread as it will bind on the rail. If I am correct the plain portion of the screw acts as the lock across the pic rail. If you use a bigger diameter it won’t clear the rail. If you let me know what the thread is I’ll check what socket headed screws I have.
 
Strongman said:
Ken,
Glad you got sorted. Don’t go for a bigger size thread as it will bind on the rail. If I am correct the plain portion of the screw acts as the lock across the pic rail. If you use a bigger diameter it won’t clear the rail. If you let me know what the thread is I’ll check what socket headed screws I have.
Click to expand...
Ha, I would have found that out when I couldn’t fit the ring:eek:. Never gave it a thought.
I’ll try and find out the thread (Gave my gauges away a couple of years ago when I gave up shooting!) and let you know.
Thanks, Ken.
 
Strongman said:
Think they are 6-40 UNF, 1” long.
If you measure the diameter of the screw thread is should be around 3.505mm 👍
Click to expand...
Strongman,
You’re right with that screw size.
Also, someone else confirmed it.
Thanks, Ken.
Strongman said:
Think they are 6-40 UNF, 1” long.
If you measure the diameter of the screw thread is should be around 3.505mm 👍
Click to expand...
Strongman,
Yes, apparently those are the correct screw dimms.
I’ve ‘mailed Uttings to ask about a replacement screw, failing that I’ll get a friend in US to ask Burris direct.
Thanks again,Ken.
 
phaedra said:
American screw sizes are fun!,

#6 is usually threaded at 32tpi for UNC or 40 for UNF.

However there are quite a few Burris scope mounts threaded at 48 tpi just to be awkward!

If they are def. 6-40 then have a look here, UNF Socket Head Cap Screws ASME B18. 3-2003 6-40 inch in A2 Stainless Steel - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
Click to expand...
Hi Phaedra,
Thanks for that info.
After what Strongman said about the bolts/ screws being a fit in the pic. slots a fully threaded screw might be too loose a fit.
Cheers,Ken.
PS. O doubt they would do in an emergency.
 
Good news and great service.
Uttings are sending me 2 new replacement screws, free of charge.
Doesn’t get better than that, so, thanks to Uttings customer service.
Cheers,Ken.
 
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