Decent Knife
- Thread starter smokey
- Start date
Mora.
Magnificent 7
Well-Known Member
Danum blades
Please pm details. I'd like to meet her. Discretion assured
Please pm details. I'd like to meet her. Discretion assured
Moira Stuart - Wikipedia
ClassMoira Stuart - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
How much do you want to spend? And do you want a completely basic tool, or do you want something a bit special? Or something in between?
For basic tool that will do everything you need and which won’t make you cry when you lose it, you can’t beat a Mora. £12-15, idiotically easy to sharpen.
For a really robust tool that is also a pleasing bit thing to see and use, there are endless options, depending on your tastes. I use a Fallkniven F1 and an Enzo/Brisa Trapper, and like both. But this is where individual taste comes in: do you want traditional or tactical? Natural or synthetic? Etc stcCost for this category is between £40 and £150 or so.
And then there are the custom and semi custom knives. These are as much works or art as tools. Things like Stuart Mitchell or Alan Wood or Emberleaf. They can cost hundreds, and won’t do anything a Mora can’t, but are beautiful (again, depending on your taste).
There isn’t a single perfect knife, and everyone has their own idiosyncratic preferences. They’re dangerous things to start looking into - you end up buying them...
For basic tool that will do everything you need and which won’t make you cry when you lose it, you can’t beat a Mora. £12-15, idiotically easy to sharpen.
For a really robust tool that is also a pleasing bit thing to see and use, there are endless options, depending on your tastes. I use a Fallkniven F1 and an Enzo/Brisa Trapper, and like both. But this is where individual taste comes in: do you want traditional or tactical? Natural or synthetic? Etc stcCost for this category is between £40 and £150 or so.
And then there are the custom and semi custom knives. These are as much works or art as tools. Things like Stuart Mitchell or Alan Wood or Emberleaf. They can cost hundreds, and won’t do anything a Mora can’t, but are beautiful (again, depending on your taste).
There isn’t a single perfect knife, and everyone has their own idiosyncratic preferences. They’re dangerous things to start looking into - you end up buying them...
Mora companion fits your bill
Why does everyone say Moras are easy to sharpen? I have three, have watched a lot of youtube videos, but cannot for the life of me get them razor sharp. If I spend hours with wetstones i can get them ‘working sharp.’ But i can get a flat grind, razor sharp with a lansky in minutes.
Kjm041
Well-Known Member
I recently got a lansky system and sharpened a bunch of knives. Cut myself a blasted kitchen knife the other day as payment for my efforts. However the two moras I had were by far the easiest to get razor sharp. Did a good job on the others too but took more effort.
Brisa/Enzo elver, little brother of the trapper, quite big enough and far more agile for around the anus. D2 steel, flat grind. Built mine from their kit, but also available ready made at a decent price.
D2 tool steel takes and holds a wicked edge and is nearly stainless.
Flat grind much better for the job than scandi and easier to sharpen.
D2 tool steel takes and holds a wicked edge and is nearly stainless.
Flat grind much better for the job than scandi and easier to sharpen.
I've just ordered the outdoor Edge razor blade. Seems similar to a havalon with replaceable blades that can be resharpened, but supposedly safer and with a bigger blade easier to use but just as sharp as a scalpel
Hayduke
Well-Known Member
I find Mora are a good cheap entry blade, pretty dull and their stainless steel is cr@p and won't hold an edge long.
Puma make some of the finest hunting knives in the world, this one is very reasonably priced for the quality, micarta handle means your hand doesn't slip when it is wet / bloody, prefer the colour because it is hard to loose it:
www.pumaknives.de
Puma make some of the finest hunting knives in the world, this one is very reasonably priced for the quality, micarta handle means your hand doesn't slip when it is wet / bloody, prefer the colour because it is hard to loose it:
PUMA IP outdoor micarta orange
There are two new additions to the proven outdoor series. Namely, the model outdoor micarta in the colors black and orange. The handle material…
www.pumaknives.de
I couldn’t get on with the Elver - something about the handle shape didn’t work for me.
Agree re. flat grind.
As for working around the back end - you see this talked about a lot here, but I’ve never really understood it. The way I do the anus, the blade never goes inside the body cavity, so it doesn’t really matter what size or shape it is. I think I need to watch someone do the tunnelling way some time!
?
I am pretty mediocre at sharpening, but can very easily get a dangerously sharp edge on my Mora. Granted, it dulls reasonably fast, but it’s very easy to get it back with a strop. I actually used my mora to teach myself to sharpen, reasoning that if I messed up, it wouldn’t really matter.
I find Mora are a good cheap entry blade, pretty dull and their stainless steel is cr@p and won't hold an edge long.
Puma make some of the finest hunting knives in the world, this one is very reasonably priced for the quality, micarta handle means your hand doesn't slip when it is wet / bloody, prefer the colour because it is hard to loose it:
PUMA IP outdoor micarta orange
There are two new additions to the proven outdoor series. Namely, the model outdoor micarta in the colors black and orange. The handle material…
I do like the look of that, but the blade seems like it might be a bit chunky for doing muntjac or roe. What’s it like in practical use in the field?
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