Decent Knife

[Sharpie]

If the grind on a mora has a secondary micro bevel its not a scandi

No ifs or buts, it does. About 2 or 3 degrees more than the primary bevel per side, and maybe 0.2 mm wide. E.g. a typical Mora companion will have a primary bevel of 11 degrees (22 included), and a secondary micro bevel, the actual cutting edge, of roughly 27 degrees included angle.

Mora and Hultafors etc. call these scandi grinds. Enzo/Brisa scandis also come with a micro bevel. Perhaps to a purist they are not, nevertheless that is what their Scandinavian manufacturers call them.

A quick search for e.g. "Mora micro bevel" will lead to endless discussion about how to sharpen these properly, taking into account the micro bevel.

 

[Sharpie]

I don't think you can go far wrong with the Bushwear knife for £4.99 , it's strong sharp and orange handle makes it easy to see in bad light.

I don't think you can go far wrong with the Asda jeans that I knock about in. £8 each or £12 for two pairs. I prefer the black over the blue, less easy to see in whatever light.

Why spend anything more ?

 

[Border]

I have a range of knives from Mora to Handmade stuff , on one of my last hunting trips someone gave me a swingblade by Outdoor Edge , which is very similar to an EKA but to my mind the handle looks better / more comfortable .. any one tried one ?

@Tim.243

 

[Tim.243]

I have a range of knives from Mora to Handmade stuff , on one of my last hunting trips someone gave me a swingblade by Outdoor Edge , which is very similar to an EKA but to my mind the handle looks better / more comfortable .. any one tried one ?

part of a thread
Nothing showing I pulled stumps to try out the swing blade, very sharp also it sheared the ribs quite well, don't think I could sheer a fallow or red ribs like I do with my tripe knife but for the MJ just right. ta Toby.

 

[Sharpie]

Did someone mention Puma Gamewarden? Someone gifted this to me many many years ago. Not a knife I've ever actually used which is a shame. Not really a stalking knife for my purposes but nice all the same. I do have a box for knives and it seems rather full. Is that wrong?
View attachment 190455

Ah, so that's what the OP was reminiscing about.

A blatant, ahem, let's be polite and call it an homage, to the original iconic Buck 110. As are all the other such things. A most excellent design classic, albeit rather different from what we (ex) EU folk are used to. But millions of Americans I am sure are not wrong about this.

Actually I have just learned that Buck now make a "pro" version with top end S30V powder metallurgy knife steel, nickel bolsters and composite polymer scales. Oh so tempted (big birthday next month, present to self).

I have absolutely no issues with using a folding knife (after all, I use a swingblade). One Dettol wipe cleans it up nicely enough in the field, inside and out, besides can anyone point to some grim hygiene fail attributed to, horrors, not using a fixed blade composite handled plastic sheathed dishwasher safe thing ?

 

[Bowland blades]

The full flat grind without any grinding lines in it and then a secondary micro bevel ( which will be very micro ) will give you the best performance in a hunting knife . The reason for this is it will give the very tightest angle and the least amount of friction.
If you take a look at a good kitchen knife this is pretty much what you can also expect to see ( though there are exceptions for certain knives and junk ) .
A cheaper way of doing things in mass production is to use really thin stock for the blade and just put the micro bevel in

No ifs or buts, it does. About 2 or 3 degrees more than the primary bevel per side, and maybe 0.2 mm wide. E.g. a typical Mora companion will have a primary bevel of 11 degrees (22 included), and a secondary micro bevel, the actual cutting edge, of roughly 27 degrees included angle.

Mora and Hultafors etc. call these scandi grinds. Enzo/Brisa scandis also come with a micro bevel. Perhaps to a purist they are not, nevertheless that is what their Scandinavian manufacturers call them.

A quick search for e.g. "Mora micro bevel" will lead to endless discussion about how to sharpen these properly, taking into account the micro bevel.

Well its not atrue scandi grind then , I haven't owned one and wouldn't own one obviously

 

[smokey]

Yes they are quality, they are far better quality that the majority of knives at their price bracket.

They are good enough quality for doing deer, reasonably good steel, sharpen easy to a razor sharp edge, easy to clean. Quality doesn’t have to mean expensive

the definition of Quality is" Customer Satisfaction "

 

[25 Sharps]

the definition of Quality is" Customer Satisfaction "

Well I am satisfied with the moras I use, I have 2 that see regular use, one for head and legs (occasionally chests though I usually don’t open them in the field) and one for everything that doesn’t involve bone.

I have reground the edge on the head an legs one to remove chips but both hold a razor sharp edge on a set of DMT diamond stones and a stropping board. £25 the pair with postage. What’s not to like?!

 

[Limpet]

Moras are good at their price point and will service most stalkers satisfactorily, especially if you use a strop regularly to keep up the edge and visit the bench stones fairly often. A good custom knife should be a joy to own, use and hold their edge longer than a Mora.

Both have their place.

 

[muddy42]

Thanks for posting. This is a completely different approach from the wetstones, that just might work. I’ll give it a try!

Just to re-iterate - Jackalore's 'magnet, wet and dry hand sanding technique' really works. Got my knife razor sharp yesterday in about 20 mins. I'm annoyed I didn't think of this, its such a simple solution. I'm going to make a wooden clamp to hold the welder's magnet better and a metal insert to make the magnet flatter.

 

[aris]

Just to re-iterate - Jackalore's 'magnet, wet and dry hand sanding technique' really works. Got my knife razor sharp yesterday in about 20 mins. I'm annoyed I didn't think of this, its such a simple solution. I'm going to make a wooden clamp to hold the welder's magnet better and a metal insert to make the magnet flatter.

Anyone got any bright ideas for an idiot proof method to sharpen a convex grind - like on a Bark River knife?

 

[Rory]

Anyone got any bright ideas for an idiot proof method to sharpen a convex grind - like on a Bark River knife?

Lansky?

 

[aris]

Lansky?

I have one - but not suited to convex grind. It seems to be a bit of a black art sharpening them - but once sharp, should be fairly easy to keep sharp using a strop. The most interesting method i've seen is to use wet & dry sandpaper on a neoprene mat - such as a mouse mat.

 

[Jagare]

If it helps.......

Like many, I can't get excited about Opinel or to some extent Mora. Opinel are great for opening boxes in a warehouse and Mora are functional and cheap. I would rather have something that holds an edge for longer and, as a constant companion, is more pleasing to use.

I really like Fallkniven generally, but suggest that the F1 excels as a work-a-day/bushcraft knife. Mine's been round the world with me and its one of those 'prise it out of my cold dead hand' possessions. For a hunting knife however, the F2 is a lot slimmer and worth a look. Holds its edge like you wouldn't believe and after a few years using it, I find it hard to beat.

View attachment 190143
Fallkniven F2Z

I have a Swingblade and its damn handy, but if I am totally honest, the blade is a little wide.

I bought a Helle Harding on a whim a few years ago. A more traditional item, it works well and is just lovely.

View attachment 190146

Helle Harding

regards


Ian

I bought the Fallkniven F2z mk1 when they were on sale. The mk1's blade was about 4mm thick and useless as the filleting knife it was meant to be. Very sharp and resides in my hunting rucksack. Underrated hunting knife.

 

[Jagare]

We use Mora knives at work. We threw them away when they got blunt. Now we have a maintainance lady who sharpens them.

 

[Bowland blades]

Anyone got any bright ideas for an idiot proof method to sharpen a convex grind - like on a Bark River knife?

Lansky?

I have one - but not suited to convex grind. It seems to be a bit of a black art sharpening them - but once sharp, should be fairly easy to keep sharp using a strop. The most interesting method i've seen is to use wet & dry sandpaper on a neoprene mat - such as a mouse mat.

To explain the convex needs the same wheel diameter that ground it for a full sharpen you can strop the secondary bevel but if you look under magnification you will often see the reason it seems blunt are lots of tiny chips ( a problem with mass produced stainless in particular). If you have enough after grinding them flat blunt , you can sometimes have enough to recdo the secondary ( not always though )
Hollow grinds are the result of double wheel grinders and unskilled staff , custom makers should avoid them along with the buyers as a full flat grind with small secondary if far better to maintain long term
Have had numerous folks turn up with hollow grinds that simply cannot be sorted without tge same wheel size exactly and one polish maker who although does a nice tidy knife once the handle is on your screwed to do a dambed thing to his knives sharpening wise , perhaps he expects customers to just look at them on a shelf in the study ?

 

[muddy42]

I have one - but not suited to convex grind. It seems to be a bit of a black art sharpening them - but once sharp, should be fairly easy to keep sharp using a strop. The most interesting method i've seen is to use wet & dry sandpaper on a neoprene mat - such as a mouse mat.

I'd try something flatter and firmer than a neoprene mat. If the knife was pressed into this it might round over the edge. I can get flat and convex grinds very sharp on a lansky, maybe a finer angle would be more suited to a convex grind. What exactly was the issue for you?

 

[Bowland blades]

I'd try something flatter and firmer than a neoprene mat. If the knife was pressed into this it might round over the edge. I can get flat and convex grinds very sharp on a lansky, maybe a finer angle would be more suited to a convex grind. What exactly was the issue for you?

Definitely don't use a soft backing , check under magnification for chipping and its extent first , then std stone and fluid or diamond stone dry in tge cutting direction it its not chipped or not chipped well into tge secondary bevel

 

[aris]

I'd try something flatter and firmer than a neoprene mat. If the knife was pressed into this it might round over the edge. I can get flat and convex grinds very sharp on a lansky, maybe a finer angle would be more suited to a convex grind. What exactly was the issue for you?

I would think that using a Lansky you are adding a secondary bevel?

I'm pretty rubbish at knife sharpening - but do have a Bark River which while sharp - not as sharp as I would like. There is a Japanese guy on yourtube - virtuovice - who seems to manage the sharpening process on stones by using a rocking motion, and finishing off on the strop. Not skills I have at the minute!

 

[aris]

Definitely don't use a soft backing , check under magnification for chipping and its extent first , then std stone and fluid or diamond stone dry in tge cutting direction it its not chipped or not chipped well into tge secondary bevel

I don't have a magnifying glass handy - but if I run my nail down the cutting edge, I don't feel any chips.