Dan Newcombe
Well-Known Member
Thanks all, think I’ve solved it with a mix of the above. Needs more fettling but we are now chambering properly
Full Length Sizing
- Thread starter Dan Newcombe
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Milk no sugar please
Well-Known Member
What shell holder are you using? My redding dies don’t like Lee holders and do exactly what you describe, but work perfectly with an rcbs.
Hunters moon
Well-Known Member
It says on the box what shell holder is appropriate, it's obvious but I didn't notice it as I had the wrong holder come with the die.
Hunters moon
Well-Known Member
Oh my gosh, I am guessing that they must be the same brand. You never stop learning.
MTheaded but happy
Well-Known Member
It shouldn't actually matter as there is an industry standard for the depth of shellholders of 0.125" . As always , we are at the mercy of manufacturing tolerances .
bluesako
Well-Known Member
my good friend, had the same problem, he fetched his rifle and cases round, and his shell holder which was a lee, i used my redding shell holder and i had his cases chambering perfect in 5 mins now im not calling lee they make good products, but it goes to show you , anyway im glad the problems solved, and yes their was a differance in the two shell holders bs
Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
Yes, Ive loaded 243, 308, 6.5 creed and 300 win mag through mine with no issues.
You can swap out to a normal shell holder but whats the point. It just works
mjr@460
Member
Ok, I've had this exact problem also with 243. Didn't seem to affect my 308 ever. In my case I was only neck sizing with lapua brass that had been neck turned for concentricity and also trimmed for length. I was using Redding competition bushing neck sizing dies with the micrometer at the top. Puzzled I went out & got a cheap lee FL for set, but still had the same problem. I was bottoming the die on the case holer, so couldn't go any further.
Eventually I realised that the 3 die set i had from Redding had a die to bump back the shoulders. I obtain a set of Redding competition shell holder set (size#1 for .243 .308 etc) part # 11601. They each incrementally space the shoulder of the case closer to the shoulders of the die;
1. +.002
2. +.004
3. +.006
4. +.008
5. +.010
In my case I was able to strip my bolt & try chambering a sized round with no bolt tension. It was tight as I closed the bolt. I used the shoulder die and incrementally went up the range of the above case holders until I found the one which enabled me to close the bolt with zero effort. In my case that was the first case holder, just +.002", that's all it took.
You can probably do the same without stripping the bolt, but I know how & preferred to do it that way.
I have a measurement for all my guns now.
I'd been reloading for 20 years before I realised this. Every day is a school day.
If you're still struggling with this just ask, id be happy to help further if I can.
Eventually I realised that the 3 die set i had from Redding had a die to bump back the shoulders. I obtain a set of Redding competition shell holder set (size#1 for .243 .308 etc) part # 11601. They each incrementally space the shoulder of the case closer to the shoulders of the die;
1. +.002
2. +.004
3. +.006
4. +.008
5. +.010
In my case I was able to strip my bolt & try chambering a sized round with no bolt tension. It was tight as I closed the bolt. I used the shoulder die and incrementally went up the range of the above case holders until I found the one which enabled me to close the bolt with zero effort. In my case that was the first case holder, just +.002", that's all it took.
You can probably do the same without stripping the bolt, but I know how & preferred to do it that way.
I have a measurement for all my guns now.
I'd been reloading for 20 years before I realised this. Every day is a school day.
If you're still struggling with this just ask, id be happy to help further if I can.
Reloader708
Well-Known Member
This is the method I use, tape is about .002" thick and its the difference between closing the bolt....or not.
General speaking though, the shell holder should be butting up tight to the bottom of the die then caming past top centre.
Ive noted several times before that swapping the shell holder can be all thats needed. The lee holder don't quite push the brass far enough into the die; also swapping a shell holder is a cheap and simple first step.
If it is a lee holder chuck it in the sea and try a different make, no joke it could be all thats required.
Reloader708
Well-Known Member
This!! 100%!
Had this with my new Tikka, it has a very tight headspace, new case fired was only 1.5 thousands longer so have to be very careful with bumping the case shoulder. My Ruger was very forgiving so was a shock as I didn't change my dies when I reloaded for the Tikka, sounds like the same problem you have
Good to know - I've got an order in at the moment for one!
Reloader708
Well-Known Member
That works too. Its Surprising just how little you'd have to remove to make a difference.
bluesako
Well-Known Member
the redding competion shell holders are a great bit of kit i have them and used them THEY WORK bsOk, I've had this exact problem also with 243. Didn't seem to affect my 308 ever. In my case I was only neck sizing with lapua brass that had been neck turned for concentricity and also trimmed for length. I was using Redding competition bushing neck sizing dies with the micrometer at the top. Puzzled I went out & got a cheap lee FL for set, but still had the same problem. I was bottoming the die on the case holer, so couldn't go any further.
Eventually I realised that the 3 die set i had from Redding had a die to bump back the shoulders. I obtain a set of Redding competition shell holder set (size#1 for .243 .308 etc) part # 11601. They each incrementally space the shoulder of the case closer to the shoulders of the die;
1. +.002
2. +.004
3. +.006
4. +.008
5. +.010
In my case I was able to strip my bolt & try chambering a sized round with no bolt tension. It was tight as I closed the bolt. I used the shoulder die and incrementally went up the range of the above case holders until I found the one which enabled me to close the bolt with zero effort. In my case that was the first case holder, just +.002", that's all it took.
You can probably do the same without stripping the bolt, but I know how & preferred to do it that way.
I have a measurement for all my guns now.
I'd been reloading for 20 years before I realised this. Every day is a school day.
If you're still struggling with this just ask, id be happy to help further if I can.
The Dies will vary within a batch ever so slightly , the case will vary and in time the brass work hardens .
Neck sizing on most cartridges will end up tight to extract or chamber as the case if it doesn't crack .
There is no better than full length sizing ( exception is things like the .22 Hornet )
A good check is to remove the spring from the bolt and run your brass through a close and extract test ( it should have no real tension on closing )
Check your carses length and trim to specification ( a lot of folks miss doing this )
Neck sizing on most cartridges will end up tight to extract or chamber as the case if it doesn't crack .
There is no better than full length sizing ( exception is things like the .22 Hornet )
A good check is to remove the spring from the bolt and run your brass through a close and extract test ( it should have no real tension on closing )
Check your carses length and trim to specification ( a lot of folks miss doing this )
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