Go & No-Go Gauges.

Bleak Ridge is a family-run business, selling country clothing and workwear
Stalker1962 said:
OK.

So just fired off an email to the US.

If the .243w and .308w are identical, I have asked them to change the .243w to 6.5CM (so 'future proofing' my happiness).

I have also asked them to clarify whether or not I do need (interesting use of that word), SAMMI or CIP.
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Err - you do know that the parent case for .308 and 6.5 are identical?
Naw - just jessing!
See my very own NoGoGuage for the Mosin Nagant which I used once many years ago to decide whether to buy my first Mosin.
Should you wish to borrow it please do pm me - it may save you lots of time, energy, emails, money postage (incl. returns) and not a little frustration…
You are welcome.
🦊🦊
36F2FCF4-D862-4163-A5B5-0A19B5D48E67.webp
 
Foxyboy43 said:
Should you wish to borrow it please do pm me.
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Kind of you.

Funny enough, I did look for that calibre on the USA site but they did not have any for 7.62x54R

Bearing in mind of course, it has taken me the thick end of six months to get around to 'slugging', my M-N, which came in (thanks for asking) at 0.315,5"

What did using the gauges tell you, when you used them on your M-Ns?

What were you 'concerned' about (other than they were M-Ns)...?
 
YES and YES saved buckets on not destroying new brass if not correct .
From all the story's of your exploits Iam Sorry you should not buy any as I can see you then buying a barrel vice and tools to ajust the action then pictures of you in plaster and bandages .
 
Stalker1962 said:
This question comes about thirty minutes too late really.

Has anyone got them?

Has anyone used them?

Did they improve your life?


View attachment 302009View attachment 302010


I have just ordered three sets from the USA, in:-

.308
.243
.303

I fully expect them to change my life for the better - and lets face it, it needs to...
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great if fitting a new barrel. apart from that, never really found any use for them apart from making my gunroom look like I really know what I'm doing.
 
@Stalker1962 , the 'field expedient' way of determining this.

Take 1 round of factory ammo (not PPU, use either Federal with the blue box or el Cheapo Hornady).

Remove your firing pin from the bolt.

Chamber the round, if it closes, good to go. (I know for sure that Hornady is made to accomodate both C.I.P and SAAMI specs, surely Federal too if sold here). This simulates a 'Go' gauge as most factory ammo, bar PPU, is made to fit in even the tightest chamber that is within spec.

To test for max chamber dimensions (simulate No-Go), take same round and put a single layer of masking tape across the case head. Trim so it's flush and try to close bolt. It shouldn't close!
 
Stalker1962 said:
Kind of you.

Funny enough, I did look for that calibre on the USA site but they did not have any for 7.62x54R

Bearing in mind of course, it has taken me the thick end of six months to get around to 'slugging', my M-N, which came in (thanks for asking) at 0.315,5"

What did using the gauges tell you, when you used them on your M-Ns?

What were you 'concerned' about (other than they were M-Ns)...?
Click to expand...
Hmmm. Well you did ask…

A go/no-go gauge refers to an inspection tool used to check a workpiece against its allowed tolerances via a go/no-go test. Its name is derived from two tests: the check involves the workpiece having to pass one test (go) and fail the other (no-go).
For example, ISO 1502 sets a standard for screw threads and gauging to test them. It establishes the attribute T as go for the major diameter and the attribute Z as no-go for the pitch diameter.[1] The inspection tool has two threaded components. For example, there would be two female sections on a gauge to test a threaded male workpiece such as a screw. If the major diameter of a screw is too large, it will not fit in the T test thread at all (fail). If the major diameter is too small, the fit is sloppy (fail). If the thread has been cut too deep, it screws into the Z test thread (fail). If it is the right size and only does about three turns, the fit is right (pass).[2]
A go/no-go gauge is an integral part of the quality process that is used in the manufacturing industry to ensure interchangeability of parts between processes or even between different manufacturers. It does not return a size or actual measurement in the conventional sense, but instead returns a state, which is either acceptable (the part is within tolerance and may be used) or unacceptable (the part must be rejected).
They are well suited for use in the production area of the factory as they require little skill or interpretation to use effectively and have few, if any, moving parts to be damaged in the often hostile production environment.

Sadly I have no recollection of what it actually did - probably checked headspace but worry ye not for I shall read the very clear accompanying leaflet just as soon as I can remember who I am sorry where it is….
🦊🦊
 
Foxyboy43 said:
Hmmm. Well you did ask…

A go/no-go gauge refers to an inspection tool used to check a workpiece against its allowed tolerances via a go/no-go test. Its name is derived from two tests: the check involves the workpiece having to pass one test (go) and fail the other (no-go).
For example, ISO 1502 sets a standard for screw threads and gauging to test them. It establishes the attribute T as go for the major diameter and the attribute Z as no-go for the pitch diameter.[1] The inspection tool has two threaded components. For example, there would be two female sections on a gauge to test a threaded male workpiece such as a screw. If the major diameter of a screw is too large, it will not fit in the T test thread at all (fail). If the major diameter is too small, the fit is sloppy (fail). If the thread has been cut too deep, it screws into the Z test thread (fail). If it is the right size and only does about three turns, the fit is right (pass).[2]
A go/no-go gauge is an integral part of the quality process that is used in the manufacturing industry to ensure interchangeability of parts between processes or even between different manufacturers. It does not return a size or actual measurement in the conventional sense, but instead returns a state, which is either acceptable (the part is within tolerance and may be used) or unacceptable (the part must be rejected).
They are well suited for use in the production area of the factory as they require little skill or interpretation to use effectively and have few, if any, moving parts to be damaged in the often hostile production environment.

Sadly I have no recollection of what it actually did - probably checked headspace but worry ye not for I shall read the very clear accompanying leaflet just as soon as I can remember who I am sorry where it is….
🦊🦊
Click to expand...
Well then - a result - voila mon ami….
next question…..
🦊🦊
9D4863E7-A89E-42C7-8386-1E8B254752CC.jpeg
 
Foxyboy43 said:
Should you wish to borrow it please do pm me - it may save you lots of time, energy, emails, money postage (incl. returns) and not a little frustration…
Click to expand...
On the basis the I believe the following to be true...


Unknown-8-1.webp

In all integrity, I would have to buy it off you, because if you lent it and I borrowed it, I would at do, at least one of the following:-

  • Lose it.
  • Break it.
  • Melt it.
  • Chip a bit off it.
  • Swallow it.
  • Forget I borrowed it.
  • Sell it (not true I never sell any kit)
 
I tell you what - read the destructions (#34) and if you can figure it out please provide an explanation, in the unlikely event that you understand it we can then negotiate…
Reassuringly the literature clearly has shooters of a certain vintage in mind - note the last para!
🦊🦊
F306E514-0859-4C55-854F-54FDA268A45A.webp
 

Go & No-Go Gauges.​


Got them with my Mansons (US) reamer order. They were sent to the `smith for the job task,they came back and now sit on the shelf with the reamers and thats it. I wont look at them again lol.
 
caberslash said:
Sorry to say, but you've spent some unnecessary money again, as the .308 gauge would have worked in the .243 and vice versa.

The Americans are probably measuring to SAAMI specs instead of C.I.P, so they won't be the same.
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@caberslash

OK, well this just got 'international'.

I sent an email this morning (UK time) to the company explaining my predicament; just received an email (their office hours) from a lady saying the Boss had suggested I phone their sales department, cancel the order and start again.

In for a penny...

Phoned and it was answered by the lady who sent the email - very helpful (as was her Boss).

My order is cancelled and all funds are refunded.


Long short.

  • .308 and .243 gauges are indeed the same.

  • SAMMI v CIP = 'It depends" (not really sure where to go with that).

Right then.

Now what? 🤔
 
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