How big does a mod have to be.

I use a Ase utra CQB .22 specific on a weihrauch .222 very quiet and just slightly bigger diameter to the barrel so no issues with the mod in the sight picture

obviously its a tiny bit heavy but i only use it for foxing of the bonnet

if u was closer u could have had a look and try
 
Thanks for the offer anyway. Do you find the mod copes ok with heat build up. The atec mods ive used get pretty hot and the mirage after a few shots is sometimes a problem. Don't know if a smaller steel muzzle mod would cope better with heat than an aluminum reflex mod
 
Thanks for the offer anyway. Do you find the mod copes ok with heat build up. The atec mods ive used get pretty hot and the mirage after a few shots is sometimes a problem. Don't know if a smaller steel muzzle mod would cope better with heat than an aluminum reflex mod
This is for a hornet is it not ?
I have never seen a heat haze from any mod on my hornet, not even on an indoor range.

Neil. :)
 
Important bit is the surface area inside the tube and the internal parts(baffles), simply put more surface area = more effective gas cooling which results in more effective 'silencing'.

Not strictly accurate but the principal is there

The cooling comes from the rapid expansion of the previously compressed gas entering a larger enclosed void (your A/C system in your car works on the same principle)
Conductive gas to solid heat transfer is a very slow process by comparison and whilst your Moderator will heat up eventually it is a by product of the process of trapping the expanding gas.
But the hotter it gets per shot the better job it is doing in containing the gas for longer and thus slowing it down

You want a system that converts the energy of the compressed gas into heat by allowing the gas to expand and slow down,
at the same time restricting the gas' path out of the muzzle, whilst also allowing the bullet to exit unimpeded....

The "more surface area" aspect is baffle design which offers a physical barrier to the gas (and subsequent noise of the gas expanding) and stops or deflects the gas into a chamber rather than directly following the bullet path
The more baffles the better but a few tight baffles are better than loads of slack ones
It also follows that the tighter bore to calibre ratio the less gas can pass between the bullet and baffle -

the less gas escaping at High velocity the better the sound attenuation.
 
Thanks. Yes its for the hornet. With my atec cmm4 rimfire after 15 shots it was to hot to undo. With the cmm4 .30 cal version it was cooler but still get a he's have after 6 to 9 shots. Not sure if this is down to aluminium v steel or weather a reflex mod would just have more surface area to cool better
 
Ok thanks for your input. Up until yesterday i haven't liked reflex mods as ive seen a lot of rifles where the rear bush has worn a shiny ring in the rifle bluing. The guy in the shop yesterday said that the rear bush is a guide only and if it is wearing the bluing off it is to tight a fit and needs easing out s little. Is this right as i thought the bush had to be near ad close a fit as possible
I use an Atec Maxim reflex mod, without the rear bushing therefore no marking of the barrel. Honestly , I can't imagine why you would want to use a flush fitting mod. They alter the balance far too much for my liking.
 
If I were you, I'd go for the Swift Nightingale. I have two, one on HMR, and one on a 22LR, but IMO they would be better suited to a small Hornet sized case centre fire. I also have an ASE CQB on a 223, a Hardy Gen4 on a Swede and Aimzonic Compact Cyclone on 308, and whilst these are about the smallest suitable for each cartridge, again IMO, they would be unnecessarily big for a Hornet.
Incidentally, I've managed to get the Nightgale on the 22 semi hot to the touch by emptying several magazines in quick succession.
 
Back
Top