Sold: Idleback chair leg

Firefly

Well-Known Member
I’ve managed to sheer off a leg. If anyone has one kicking around I’d be interested in buying.
I know it’s a long shot.

TIA. Ff
 
Not really familiar with the item but stock steel sections used in this kind of items should be easy to find and a new leg made . That sort of job is spending money in many small fabrication shops a pound a minute in the hand
 
I believe the frame / legs are aluminium, can you not get it welded back together by a specialist? I spoke to the guy who ran the business at a game show quite a few years ago and he was getting the bits manufacturing moved to the peoples republic of chopsticks due to costs, anyone heard that one before?
 
I believe the frame / legs are aluminium, can you not get it welded back together by a specialist? I spoke to the guy who ran the business at a game show quite a few years ago and he was getting the bits manufacturing moved to the peoples republic of chopsticks due to costs, anyone heard that one before?
Yes it’s cast aluminium, actually thinking about it, I might be able to melt it down and recast ! Now there’s a project
 
Yes it’s cast aluminium, actually thinking about it, I might be able to melt it down and recast ! Now there’s a project
You still have two other identical legs to pattern it off like we did back in the older patternmaking days with a wooden master being pressed into a sand & molasses casting box, the molasses hold the sand together, sticky stuff.
 
You still have two other identical legs to pattern it off like we did back in the older patternmaking days with a wooden master being pressed into a sand & molasses casting box, the molasses hold the sand together, sticky stuff.
That’s what I was thinking. Never done it but saw the big boys do it at school in metalwork !
 
And there was I convinced these chairs were fully UK manufactured and with each component lovingly machined from a single aluminium billet in Tim243’s shed, whereas the reality is **** poor quality castings of flimsy structure.

K
 
Thinking of drilling where the red lines are , bolting and filling cavities with epoxy ?
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Paint stripper the area first to get down to a clean alloy surface then roughen it all up with sharp pointy thing like a hardened nail to create a key then cut two alloy blocks a few mm smaller than the aperture sizes to save on epoxy and add strength, then epoxy the surfaces well and squeeze the blocks down into the epoxy mix so that it overflows over the top edges, leave it for 48 hours to be sure its cured off 100% then rasp off the epoxy waste, now the loads will carry on through the weak area and down the leg. I would do the same to the top hole too and maybe add these blocks to the other legs to reinforce them against shearing off in advance as it looks to me to be a weak design, the material looks like pot metal to me too.
 
Paint stripper the area first to get down to a clean alloy surface then roughen it all up with sharp pointy thing like a hardened nail to create a key then cut two alloy blocks a few mm smaller than the aperture sizes to save on epoxy and add strength, then epoxy the surfaces well and squeeze the blocks down into the epoxy mix so that it overflows over the top edges, leave it for 48 hours to be sure its cured off 100% then rasp off the epoxy waste, now the loads will carry on through the weak area and down the leg. I would do the same to the top hole too and maybe add these blocks to the other legs to reinforce them against shearing off in advance as it looks to me to be a weak design, the material looks like pot metal to me too.
That sounds really good , I had a quick look at it today and started preliminary work ! Intend to put a divider in above the big hole so the nuts sit in full contact and fill all cavities with epoxy.IMG_9112.webp
 
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