Knifes and sharpening systems
- Thread starter Tommy1964
- Start date
The lansky type system works well. I have a gatco one which I think is a bit better than the lansky.
Really though, you need to match your sharpening system to the grind on your knife. If you’re a mora type with a scandi grind, then you’ll want a waterstone. I use a fallkniven with a convex grind and sharpen it with one of their small stones and a stropping board.
Really though, you need to match your sharpening system to the grind on your knife. If you’re a mora type with a scandi grind, then you’ll want a waterstone. I use a fallkniven with a convex grind and sharpen it with one of their small stones and a stropping board.
This is good advice
For me an outdoor gralloch and larder knife is a tough 5 inch scandi grind. The strength of these allows me to cut up against bone, removing deer feet etc. without damaging the metal. This magnet and sandpaper technique is the best technique I have come across to sharpen scandis:
Keep your delicate flat grinds and victronix knives for indoor butchery work.
For short pocket knives I use the lansky system
Keep your delicate flat grinds and victronix knives for indoor butchery work.
For short pocket knives I use the lansky system
Thanks guys it’s good to hear what others are using I’ll have a look at your suggestions after work before I go I was in a larder up north and every contractor who came in had a sharpening tool called a Bobit I’m wondering if any of you guys had used one I think they cost around £80 cheers guys
That looks great, what are you running for your 400g..?
Steff
Well-Known Member
Oogh. If only I knew. I believe it is some sort of silicat. The disk feels like a hard rubber and can be flexed with some force.
I have learned that I better not hold the sharp edge against the spinning direction. It‘s better to go with it.
@theroedeerguy
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link for where you purchased that or model details, looks like a great set up.
Thanks
More good advice, don't cut into the direction of pliable wheel.
Particularly with the felt wheels, which are very good for stropping, the blade edge with bite hard into the felt and try and work it's way (very quickly) towards the centre of the wheel, the shaft, by means of a spiral through the wheel, it is not a nice experience.
Steff
Well-Known Member
I don‘t even know the English term for it. Double grinder????
It‘s the cheapest model I could find at my local hardware store. 34EUR.
It was equipped with some very coarse disks though. 36 and 80 g. So I got finer ones online. The 400g was the most expensive. Around 70 EUR. The 120g was only 17 EUR.
Well , All i can add is i get more knives in for sharpening after the user has messed-up sharpening a sharp knife than i do well used knives! At a guess 1-15 is a well-used knife.
The most damaged sharpening job ever was one of my SLH deerstalkers in AEB-L . I knew that one was going to be bad , likely not savable ? An instructor gave his knife to a student , who proceeded to baton through sheep legs " its got some chips out of it " i was informed " Wasn't to hard a fix when i got it
Point i am trying to make is its not the tools , its the person using them.
If you get an oilstone, use honing oil not engine oil
If you get a waterstone, soak it in water
If you use diamond type , dry
Kits can help you keep an angle , though if you have already messed up its going to be a hard job
Strop frequently and you really don't have to add paste, i do not ever
The most damaged sharpening job ever was one of my SLH deerstalkers in AEB-L . I knew that one was going to be bad , likely not savable ? An instructor gave his knife to a student , who proceeded to baton through sheep legs " its got some chips out of it " i was informed " Wasn't to hard a fix when i got it
Point i am trying to make is its not the tools , its the person using them.
If you get an oilstone, use honing oil not engine oil
If you get a waterstone, soak it in water
If you use diamond type , dry
Kits can help you keep an angle , though if you have already messed up its going to be a hard job
Strop frequently and you really don't have to add paste, i do not ever
I might be a heretic, but, my decent knives, all Go to the knife sharpener man who charges not a lot of money. My cheap mora knives I use one of those tungsten sharpeners that you see at all the fairs. Hey, I paid ten pound for the knife, it only has to stay sharp for one deer.
I tried the lansky system, got bored. I have enough to things to do and don’t have time or patience using it. I don’t reload for the same reason.
somyeah, every few months, drop the knife to the knife man and he also a far better job than I could.
I tried the lansky system, got bored. I have enough to things to do and don’t have time or patience using it. I don’t reload for the same reason.
somyeah, every few months, drop the knife to the knife man and he also a far better job than I could.
What model morra knife have you been using? there are so many, I have several expensive knives puma etc but nightmare to keep a edge
Pellet Pinger
Well-Known Member
Get yourself one of these, brilliant. I paid £23 for mine off the bay.
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