Lead and copper through the same barrel

[HH375]

Sorry all, another thread regarding non-toxic ammo...

I've got a Mauser in .308 which I've only been using copper ammo (Sako Powerhead Blade) through since new, grouping decently. Used it up in Scotland hence the non-toxic ammo I started with.
Now looking at using lead again on this rifle, just because of the costs of it and only use copper "as necessary".
However, I was told not to use lead and copper through the same barrel, unless I "deep" clean the bore and remove all deposits, since that might affect the accuracy on either ammo. Any thoughts or experiences that would "debunk" this theory? Safe to use lead and copper interchangeably or a big no-no?

Looking forward to hear your thoughts!
Cheers

 

[Jagged77]

Crack on and don’t give it a second thought. Clean when accuracy drops off.

 

[Reloader708]

You're gonna get a **** load of contravening advice on here.
Alls I can say, i use both through my 708, totally randomly and I cant see any measurable difference.
And I prefer lead!
Ultimately the jacket on a lead bullet is the same material of which copper bullets are made so it makes no sense.

 

[maximus otter]

…the jacket on a lead bullet is the same material of which copper bullets are made...

Not strictly true: bullet jackets are typically made from gilding metal, which is often 95% copper, 5% zinc. (Proportions vary.)

maximus otter

 

[Norfolk Deer Search]

I’ve been loading copper almost 20 years of not a tad longer!

Clean the barrel before shooting copper!

That’s always been successful for me. That’s what I advise you to do.

What you do is entirely your personal next step, but that’s what I do as you asked.

 

[Donnington]

There was a really good video on this exact topic that I was watching only last night.

Ron Spomer suggested that you should completely clean your bore of copper deposits before switching back to Lead, otherwise you'll really struggle with accuracy. Someone tested it out and the results seem to back it up:

 

[Norfolk Deer Search]

There was a really good video on this exact topic that I was watching only last night.

Ron Spomer suggested that you should completely clean your bore of copper deposits before switching back to Lead, otherwise you'll really struggle with accuracy. Someone tested it out and the results seem to back it up:

I’ve been saying that for about 15 years or for as long as I’ve been loading copper

 

[Bowland blades]

Sorry all, another thread regarding non-toxic ammo...

I've got a Mauser in .308 which I've only been using copper ammo (Sako Powerhead Blade) through since new, grouping decently. Used it up in Scotland hence the non-toxic ammo I started with.
Now looking at using lead again on this rifle, just because of the costs of it and only use copper "as necessary".
However, I was told not to use lead and copper through the same barrel, unless I "deep" clean the bore and remove all deposits, since that might affect the accuracy on either ammo. Any thoughts or experiences that would "debunk" this theory? Safe to use lead and copper interchangeably or a big no-no?

Looking forward to hear your thoughts!
Cheers

Accurate shooting means different things to different shooters to be flat honest. Lead and copper bullets without a real good copper might well still work ! However the shooting is loosing some acuraccy for sure . How much ? depends on the competence of the shooter and how much layers of copper and lead ! and the shooters ability to produce the goods on the trigger .

 

[shakey jake]

Id pop a target at 100m shot a group with lead, a group with copper and repeat
see what happens.

 

[Norfolk Deer Search]

Id pop a target at 100m shot a group with lead, a group with copper and repeat
see what happens.

Waste of good ammunition, just clean the barrel!

It can mean the difference between 1.5” and an cloverleaf in some, that’s what happened to me when I was loading my 6.5x55, I wasted a lot of money by not cleaning

 

[shakey jake]

Waste of good ammunition, just clean the barrel!

It can mean the difference between 1.5” and an cloverleaf in some. Circumstances.

In some circumstances?

 

[seedawood]

I do basic zeroing with my remnant supply of lead (only buy non toxic now) then fire a couple of NT to confirm poi. I have found that most NT factory loads are more accurate than 'average' lead factory loads.
BUT I find a quicker build up of copper fouling from NT bullets which leads to a rapid drop off of accuracy from subsequent lead loads. No idea if this is a result of bullet material composition or because I shoot faster NT loads that are presumably producing more chamber pressure and therefore heat. (Discuss at great length...) Simple cure I have found is to thoroughly clean your barrel after each shooting session and start each session with the barrel in the same condition.
Breaking in/lapping barrel from new also seems to help reduce copper fouling with NT or lead bullets.

 

[HH375]

There was a really good video on this exact topic that I was watching only last night.

Ron Spomer suggested that you should completely clean your bore of copper deposits before switching back to Lead, otherwise you'll really struggle with accuracy. Someone tested it out and the results seem to back it up:

Sounds like the info I'm after but couldn't really find! Cheers

 

[HH375]

I’ve been loading copper almost 20 years of not a tad longer!

Clean the barrel before shooting copper!

That’s always been successful for me. That’s what I advise you to do.

What you do is entirely your personal next step, but that’s what I do as you asked.

Open to all opinions, a man much wiser than me always told me to learn from mistakes other people made before you make the same mistake but learn the same lesson

 

[HH375]

Accurate shooting means different things to different shooters to be flat honest. Lead and copper bullets without a real good copper might well still work ! However the shooting is loosing some acuraccy for sure . How much ? depends on the competence of the shooter and how much layers of copper and lead ! and the shooters ability to produce the goods on the trigger .

Well, to be fair, hitting the vitals on an animal is "accurate enough", however, I'm always aiming for the best I can do with the resources I have

 

[Edinburgh Rifles]

Not strictly true: bullet jackets are typically made from gilding metal, which is often 95% copper, 5% zinc. (Proportions vary.)

maximus otter

as are most "copper" bullets
Hornady GMX - "Guilding Metal Expanding"
No such thing as a pure copper
Almost all of them have a Zinc component
You'll also be interested to know that most of them have lead in them too....

 

[muddy42]

Lead bullets are coated in copper, so both leave copper deposits and I can't see changing making a difference. Personally, I'm currently using up all kinds off box ends of lead ammo before the ban - I cant see any variance in zero on close range woodland roe.