Optilock with plastic inserts

Decoyman

Well-Known Member
I’m new to these Optilock rings with plastic inserts, can anyone help with ring torque settings, I have done mine to 17inch lb but after they have settled I need to tighten again to get it right, a friend of mine has the same system on his rifle setup a few months ago and after checking his needed re tightening, questions is do you set them up from new and leave them, or re torque ever so often? I understand that the plastic inserts may move slightly in warm or cold conditions but don’t want to keep checking for ever.
 
Just finger and thumb torque with a small hex key after some faffing to get every thing lined up seems to work, about 10 years ago I discovered the hex for the rings to base had worked loose, other than that problem free
 
I’ve had the optilock system on both of my rifles (Sako and Tikka) for at least 15 years. Up until recently I had the same scopes, put on 10yrs + ago and never needed retightening from the day I fitted them. I didn’t use a torque gauge when fitting them. Just a bit of threadlock on each bolt and good even pressure working corner to corner when tightening down.

I have used the rifles in the in the heat of summer and the depths of winter and never noticed any material change in POI.

I recently upgraded my scopes and when I took the rings off there isn’t even the slightest mark on the tubes.

For me these are the best rings I have ever come across......but then I haven’t needed to try many others!
 
I had this - Opti locks seem a nightmare unless they are loctite'd.

Just finger and thumb torque with a small hex key after some faffing to get every thing lined up seems to work, about 10 years ago I discovered the hex for the rings to base had worked loose, other than that problem free
 
Hmmm A Typo issue insert the word inch ? i'v never had a scope fall off or needed to lock tight mine on have them on my 280 ack imp and had them on both my sako TRG'S 338 with no problems I was given the spec by sako technical at the factory a very long time ago and never needed to change it , use the correct tool in the correct way it works for me
 
There is a simple trick to tightening the base to ring screws on optilocks. Put the ring lightly in a vice upside down with a piece of plate or flat bar of some description leaving it proud. Protect the other side of the rings with something but keep this flush. When you place the base on top of the ring it will butt up to the proud plate allowing you to tighten the screw without twisting the ring out of line or having difficulty holding it all together. Difficult to describe that process in words but hope it makes sense!
 
Recently changed scope on my 85 and went with Sako ringmounts so no base to ring screws at all. Nicer looking IMHO, a fraction lighter (arguably only just though) and less to go wrong :-D
 
Recently changed scope on my 85 and went with Sako ringmounts so no base to ring screws at all. Nicer looking IMHO, a fraction lighter (arguably only just though) and less to go wrong :-D

I've had Sakos for years and had never seen ringmounts until I googled them after seeing your post. They look great and appear to come in stainless too which is an option that I think has been dropped from the optilock ring and base range for some bizarre reason.
 
I've had Sakos for years and had never seen ringmounts until I googled them after seeing your post. They look great and appear to come in stainless too which is an option that I think has been dropped from the optilock ring and base range for some bizarre reason.
Also use the above, took me a year to find some second hand in 1” stainless. Toots now owns my old blued set. They were supposedly also available in 30mm but still looking.
 
I've never had any problems with my Optilocks. Have five sets of rings and bases and one set of ringmounts. All have Torx screws. "Finger" tight and no Loctite. Lots of info "out there" on torque values. Note that Sako does not publish any specific torque values.
On my two stainless rifles I opted for stainless bases to match the actions and blued rings (well black really) to match (almost) the scopes.

Cheers
 
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I use Burris Zee signature rings on most of my rifles. The plastic inserts self centre and I do the screws up diagonally across rings and alternate across the front and back mounts. I ensure as far as possible the top half goes on square. As for torque, just nip them up if i use a torx screw driver, if a wrench just about 5 mins of bend. I don't use loctite except on the rail locating screws. Periodically ie when barrel gets cleaned I just check all mounting screws but cant remember any being loose.

Just a point, it takes time to fit a scope correctly and should not be rushed. if you do it correctly the first time you should not get any issues.

D
 
Thank you all for your replies, very helpful, ok now after a week of plastic inserts settled in, I’m toque setting at 15 inch lb and leaving it, but still just a tat concerned that although it’s setup correctly now the screws don’t come loose, it’s the give in the plastic shrinking to fit that gives that impression, just have a look at yours and set toque to 10 inch lb and see if yours are tight, I know in the USA the people with glossy scopes are finding that the scope slips with recoil.
 
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