stuart mckellar
Member
Hi has any one got any experience with this forward facing add on. I have one and it is not very clear when using this night vision can anybody please give me advise.
Pulsar Forward F455 Night Vision
- Thread starter stuart mckellar
- Start date
I've been using an F455 on a Swarovski Z6i and it works brilliantly. The problem with some add ons is that they don't like the coatings on some scopes. In the past, I've found some top-end scopes didn't work at all well with some add on NV. However, the Swarovski does. I am sure Bruce (Mealie Jimmy) on here may be able to advise
Personally I've been very pleased with the F455.
Personally I've been very pleased with the F455.
What is your scope magnification set at?
Pulsar recommend that the magnification of your day scope should not exceed x8
Remember that with a front add-on, your day scope is actually "looking at" the display at the rear of the add-on.
As you increase magnification, the display becomes larger and the individual pixels will start to become visible.
Too much magnification and the image just becomes a load of black, white and grey little boxes.
You also need to be careful about the amount of IR you use.
The F455 is very sensitive to IR and it's easy to use too much and "white out" the display.
I spent a bit of time with a Pulsar Digex, which uses the same lens and sensor as the F455 and I found the image lacking in contrast and very "washed out"
Cheers
Bruce
Pulsar recommend that the magnification of your day scope should not exceed x8
Remember that with a front add-on, your day scope is actually "looking at" the display at the rear of the add-on.
As you increase magnification, the display becomes larger and the individual pixels will start to become visible.
Too much magnification and the image just becomes a load of black, white and grey little boxes.
You also need to be careful about the amount of IR you use.
The F455 is very sensitive to IR and it's easy to use too much and "white out" the display.
I spent a bit of time with a Pulsar Digex, which uses the same lens and sensor as the F455 and I found the image lacking in contrast and very "washed out"
Cheers
Bruce
Try a Ludicrous Lumens Wraith 940nm with the 2x lens.
I am totally new to Night Vision, at the start of lockdown I bought the F144 & Wicked lights A51ir. At first I found it a bit of an enigma, either too white or too vague. I discovered that the IR doesn't need to be set on the 800 nm? setting, it gives off a glow, & too much white out, alright for long range identification, set on 940 I can id a fox easily at 200 yards. You need to defocus the lamp rather than have the square image, this gets rid of the striping effect, & greatly reduces white out. Have the lamp set as high as possible is also beneficial. The W Light has a very good dimmer, the biggest problem I had was a fox looking straight at me, the reflexion of its eyes made them look like dinner plates, not easy to see the body. What I did in the end was to put a brown cardboard box on a fence post with a 1/2 inch pice of reflective tape in the middle, about 120 yards out. Using the red led & take the Pulsar off, focus your scope till you reduce the size of reflexion & see the card box as well, try it with the Pulsar on & focus the unit the play with the dimmer, brightness & contrast. The Pulsar holds its settings so all you have to do in future is focus & dimmer. Over the weeks I have shot 12 foxes on my small farm, all have been extremely difficult old lamp shy vixens & dogs, I feel like I have finally gotten the hang a this, I find 8x mag is a bit too high, 5 or 6 x is about perfect, good for 160-200 yards, but the truth is most foxes I shoot are 30 - 150 yards. Shot 4 foxes since friday, before the moon gets up, I'm loving it! Hope that helps.
As an aside, I found that the type of vegetation you shoot over makes a big difference to white out, damp pasture & cereals are the worst, peas & stubble & cut hay are absolutely brilliant for clarity. Moon phase too. The waxy leaves of pasture reflects back, peas & hay & stubble reflect all ways lighting up your target.
stuart mckellar
Member
Thanks guys for all advice i will try this
As far as the IR for the F455 is concerned, have a look at the latest from Nightmaster the NM1. It's a very good torch as you would expect from this firm and IR intensity can be controlled from virtually nil up to top power. A choice of two IRs covert and normal. it works very well with the F455.
stuart mckellar
Member
Hi it is not the IR the image is just very blurry and the frame moves like a camera shutter . One of the guys has told me to try Sum Light function.
stuart mckellar
Member
Z6 but turned down magnification
If you don't have enough IR getting to the camera most automatically reduce the number of complete image frames it produces every second thus allowing more time for light to reach the sensor for each frame
Typically, at least 25 frames per second is needed to trick the human eye into seeing smooth scrolling video.
When the frame rate drop, the image starts to judder and smear.
Sumlight is the Pulsar trade name for their electronic function that automatically slows down the frame rate when there is insufficient light for the camera to produce a decent image with the currently available light level.
It works for stationary images, bur smears badly when the camera is moved as would be needed when scanning for a target.
The solution is simply to use more IR
Cheers
Bruce
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