Pulsar Quantum HD 50 S - shutter faulty.

Erik Hamburger

Well-Known Member
I use an almost 5 year old Pulsar Quantum HD 50 S , my most loyal stalking friend. The unit is now starting to play up a bit at calibration, which it does in a slow staggering fashion, as if the internal shutter is stiffened up. Is this a known problem and can anybody suggest a fix please?
A friend - who shot 3 Muntjac and 1 Roe a few days ago, using my 'faulty' Thermal to find them, suggests to open up the unit as he thinks the shutter may need a little lubrication. I hesitate to do this before getting some advice first.
(I can still use it, on manual calibration, but it requires you to close the cover each time you calibrate).
Thank you for any suggestions.
 
Ring Thomas Jacks and ask how much a service might cost. The unit's way out of warranty - but the figure quoted may help you decide whether to take the risk of opening it - it sounds like it doesn't owe you anything after five years - and thermal spotters have moved on a long way in that time.
 
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Watching this closely as I have the same unit, it's been brilliant and I don't want to swap it, it's working fine but you never know!
 
Apologies for opening up an old thread but my HD50 has just failed in the same way as the OP. It's still a ridiculously good unit and I'm loath to ditch it without attempting to get it repaired. Does anyone know if TJ (?) is still doing repairs??? (I've done a search but I'm stood in a dark field doing this on my mobile with a dead thermal in my pocket!!)

Regards.

Deano
 
Apologies for opening up an old thread but my HD50 has just failed in the same way as the OP. It's still a ridiculously good unit and I'm loath to ditch it without attempting to get it repaired. Does anyone know if TJ (?) is still doing repairs??? (I've done a search but I'm stood in a dark field doing this on my mobile with a dead thermal in my pocket!!)

Regards.

Deano
After I posted I did some more research (NV Forum is great) and purchased a £12 Servo part of Fleebay, and got hold of the fitting instructions. Can't find them, but they did get passed around online on this Forum and NV forum. A friend managed to repair it (It took him an afternoon to work it out...) . I think what you need is the 4.3g EMax ES9051 Digital Servo £10-£11 online.
So....I just saved you around £250!
 
Here you go Deano ..... Cusco’s ‘How to do it‘ post from the nvforum. I did one on my mate’s HD38S and posted some pics and a couple of things I found when doing it on the nvforum.....link as above 👍

Almost took me longer to clean up the unit before I took it apart to avoid getting any dust/dirt in there! 🤣

Hi folks sorry for not putting this up sooner. I have not checked the forum for a while.Please find below a copy of the emailed instructions I sent to a couple of forum members. Hope it helps. Cusco.

INSTRUCTIONS

Firstly unscrew the lens right off. It is usually on very tight but will come off. Then lift the controller knob off by prying it up and then undo the nut underneath it.Long nose pliers are good for this. This frees up the control module underneath. It will hang by wires once the housing is off.
Note the module has a slot to line up on the underside of the front housing on reassembly.

The front housing has 2 screws on one side and 1 screw on the other into the edge of the rail. Undoing these will allow the front housing to come off. It will be tight as there is some kind of silicone seal around the join. Just gently pry around the join,wiggling, pulling CAREFULLY as you go.

DO NOT YANK ON THE HOUSING OR YOU COULD PULL THE WIRES OFF THE BACK OF THE CONTROLLER KNOB.

Once the front housing is off you will see the servo with it little”flag” shaped sensor cover. If the servo is sticky try putting a drop of silicone spray lube on the servo spindle ( I used a small modelling brush to “paint” a drop of lube under the “flag”mount around the spindle) Give it a minute to sink in then do several manual refreshes to work the servo so it swings back and forth. This should fix a sticky servo. Do not put any pressure on the servo arm “flag” at any time as pressure on it will damage the servo.

If the servo is “dead” it can be swapped out by undoing the 2 small screws that hold the servo and undoing the plug. The screws you can access once the front housing cover is off but access to the plug is underneath the sensor assembly. So undo the 3 or 4 screws that hold the sensor assembly to the main case. These are around the outside edge of the sensor assembly. Take care to not touch the sensor. I usually put some tape over the assembly front to protect it. Once the screws are out, be careful to not let the assembly fall out as the connection wires are short.
Take extreme care once the sensor assembly is loose as you DO NOT want to PULL on the wires/ribbons. Just hold the sections apart by lying them down so there is a gap to reach the servo plug.

Now you can get at the servo plug. Note its direction of polarity. Check which colour wire goes where. Be careful here as there are other wires and video ribbon tape to look after. DO NOT PULL ON ANYTHING. (Except the servo plug) Space is tight but with care it can be done.
Using fine long nosed pliers gently pull the servo plug off the terminal pins. Grab it on the PLUG ONLY not on the wires. Once the servo is free the sensor “flag” can be swapped to the new servo. Do it now or later. Just undo the small screw on top of the servo and gently lift/pull up the “flag” noting the placement direction for remounting on the new servo.
Plug the new servo in and BEFORE remounting the sensor assembly do a manual refresh several times to ensure the servo works. I messed up my plugs polarity (did not note wires colours) but just swapped the plug around and it worked fine.
DO NOT PUT ANY PRESSURE ON THE SERVO ARM/FLAG AS YOU TEST THE SERVO. The unit will work pulled apart. Only apply power at servo testing, other wise leave it powered OFF.
If the servo works fine, reassemble the sensor assembly taking care to not crush the wires. There is a gap under the sensor assembly in the middle for ALL the wires to go through.

Next refit the new servo with its 2 screws and test again, that this time the “flag” fully covers the sensor when it swings. The servo might need slight twisting on its mounts/screws to ensure sensor coverage or the”flag” might need refitting one/two notches around the spindle.
TAKE CARE TO NOT MOVE THE SERVO SPINDLE WHEN DOING THIS. Always PULL UP on the “flag” if moving it. Adjust the servos or “flags”position so when it swings the “flag” covers as much of the sensor as possible. Mine was pretty close after adjustment and refreshes fine.
Close enough seems to be good enough.!!!

Once happy with the “flag” coverage just reassemble taking care all the wires are not crushed. I gently pushed the servo wires down underneath the sensor assembly through the small gap underneath.
Refit the controller module to the front housing noting the slot to line up with. Tighten up the nut on the outside of the controller module and refit knob. Line up front housing and refit. You might need to remove the old join sealer. Then refit lens. Take care as you do it up.

If everything was done right it should be good to go. The one I fixed is a Quantum HD38s but the cases are all very similar, just the number of screws might be different.
If you get dust/finger prints on either the sensor or lenses just gently clean them with diluted Windex. Using a cotton bud work well for the sensor.

I hope this all makes sense. Just take care as you go. Good luck.. Cheers.

Regards Cusco
 
I had a problem with my on/off switch on my pulsar thermal, phoned T Jacks ,made an appointment dropped it in , a week later picked it up ,Stratford upon Avon
not to far way great job ,and if I remember it was around £ 30 .
 
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