PVS 14. GREEN OR WHITE and COMPATIBLE SCOPES

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Guys

PVS14 rear mounted sight, I‘ve looked through a couple of these recently what is the general consensus between green or white tubes capabilities / preference if you have one or used one, also which scopes perform best I have Schmidt, swaro, zeiss and a hawke for the rimmies pard 007 with dedicated Nv units also For the 17 Mach 2, 22hornets, 204 and 222

looking to get one scope to fit all if it works out, cost of the PVS 14 says

Going on other makes of rear mounted NV some scopes don’t like the add one units which reflects on the performance

any info or guidance appreciated

cheers

phil
 
The specifications of tubes in the PVS14 is more important than Green or White-Black IMO. Some say the white gives better contrast - personally I don't see it and find the white too bright, even with gain turned down. Bear in mind that some PVS are not recoil rated - particularly the newer thin film Gen3's. Choice of tube therefore becomes way more important above 22CF.

While coatings may make some difference in fully passive use, you will be hard pushed to tell with a good IR - and certainly not at distances most shoot at. I have used PVS with all the scope brands you mentioned and all are good to serious distance with the right set up and the right IR. Pay some consideration to the parallax minimums - the Swaro and the Zeiss will not give you clear pictures below 50m because of the parallax set up. For me, the best scope I have used with NV, front or rear mount - is the IOR Recon.
 
The specifications of tubes in the PVS14 is more important than Green or White-Black IMO. Some say the white gives better contrast - personally I don't see it and find the white too bright, even with gain turned down. Bear in mind that some PVS are not recoil rated - particularly the newer thin film Gen3's. Choice of tube therefore becomes way more important above 22CF.

While coatings may make some difference in fully passive use, you will be hard pushed to tell with a good IR - and certainly not at distances most shoot at. I have used PVS with all the scope brands you mentioned and all are good to serious distance with the right set up and the right IR. Pay some consideration to the parallax minimums - the Swaro and the Zeiss will not give you clear pictures below 50m because of the parallax set up. For me, the best scope I have used with NV, front or rear mount - is the IOR Recon.
Thanks Eric the Red
i’ll get on it in the week and see if I can get some sort of package together should i head towards a mark 2 unit to play safe and calibre rating to .308

cheers

phil
 
Just curious so what to look out for and what to avoid in the world of used and prices and do some have gen 2 tubes, think my longbow gen 2 and it’s ok, looked through pvs14 different league, owner had no idea about tube?
 
I use a 2011 milspec PVS14 (green) on my sightron S3 with a PBir and I can see the spots on a Fallows arse at 600 yards!

So far it has been undamaged by my 22-250 and rather warm 55gr loads. 🤞🏼
 
Just curious so what to look out for and what to avoid in the world of used and prices and do some have gen 2 tubes, think my longbow gen 2 and it’s ok, looked through pvs14 different league, owner had no idea about tube?
The market is now more complicated than it used to be.
PVS14 (Personal Vision System no. 14) is a military requirement design - and so many different types of manufacturers produce their own versions to this specification. Then there are the lookalikes and those built for different uses (ENVIS for example).
On top of this were required tube specifications - in later days called OMNI contracts. While complying to these standards, lots of different manufacturers produced tubes to these specifications - to sit in these various bodies. Just because something is of a later specification, it doesn't make it better. It is just designed to meet the specific minimum needs of the contract. The specs of the specific tube can be found on the tube itself, normally with an NSN and a manufacture date - by unscrewing the lens.

On top of this there's the generation game. Gen 3 is not necessarily better than Gen 2 - it is a different technology.

Clear so far?

So then you have the introduction of commercial grade PVS14 clones on top of the originals. These can be bought on the open market, are warranted - and in the main obscenely expensive. Few meet the light gathering performance of the military items - but the military versions were rarely designed to be weapons mounted (and if they were, only on 5.56 in the main) - and tend to be inherently more fragile. Gen 2+ and in particular the Photonis brand of tubes have a different construction and so are more often more resilient. Some manufacturers will rate their monoculars against recoil.

What to look out for - gosh.
Well PVS14 is a relatively old unit these days.
Look for a lack of body wear.
Listen for electronic 'whining' when turning on - and any delay in coming on.
Ensure the manual gain works
Check the lenses closely. PVS come with sacrifical lenses and so the lenses should be as free of scratches and dirt as possible
Make sure the dioptre and the focus both have a smooth full range of turn
Turn the unit on against a clean sheet of white paper - you want as few marks as possible (small ones are to be expected - it is an organic product) - beware any burns or dull spots
Check battery compartment and connections - clean and tight.
Check whether the autogating works

There's a starter for ten anyway.....

In terms of against a Longbow - it will be - far less glass etc for light to come through - and very different tubes. With the IR's available these days however, the gap has shrunk (we don't need to use these units passively).

Next time.....Figure of Merit (FoM)......
 
its the same with all tubed nv its all down to the tube spec personally I would go for a longbow as they are just so much easier and more compact than a pvs14 yes ok you will get higher mag on a pvs14 but the more mag you go the more ir you need I have shot foxes out to 350 quite regular with a longbow but it all comes down to tube spec !!!! no matter what you get I know people and I have owned gen2 units that have been far superior to some gen3 units
 
Longbow all day used one for 10 years In multiple specs

Pvs14 are good but not all tubes are rated and tubes are expensive and hard to get in a good spec

How far do you really need to be able to shoot because my longbows have always been fine out to 300 to shoot and way past 500 to ID
 
Longbow all day used one for 10 years In multiple specs

Pvs14 are good but not all tubes are rated and tubes are expensive and hard to get in a good spec

How far do you really need to be able to shoot because my longbows have always been fine out to 300 to shoot and way past 500 to ID
250 mtrs max
 
The market is now more complicated than it used to be.
PVS14 (Personal Vision System no. 14) is a military requirement design - and so many different types of manufacturers produce their own versions to this specification. Then there are the lookalikes and those built for different uses (ENVIS for example).
On top of this were required tube specifications - in later days called OMNI contracts. While complying to these standards, lots of different manufacturers produced tubes to these specifications - to sit in these various bodies. Just because something is of a later specification, it doesn't make it better. It is just designed to meet the specific minimum needs of the contract. The specs of the specific tube can be found on the tube itself, normally with an NSN and a manufacture date - by unscrewing the lens.

On top of this there's the generation game. Gen 3 is not necessarily better than Gen 2 - it is a different technology.

Clear so far?

So then you have the introduction of commercial grade PVS14 clones on top of the originals. These can be bought on the open market, are warranted - and in the main obscenely expensive. Few meet the light gathering performance of the military items - but the military versions were rarely designed to be weapons mounted (and if they were, only on 5.56 in the main) - and tend to be inherently more fragile. Gen 2+ and in particular the Photonis brand of tubes have a different construction and so are more often more resilient. Some manufacturers will rate their monoculars against recoil.

What to look out for - gosh.
Well PVS14 is a relatively old unit these days.
Look for a lack of body wear.
Listen for electronic 'whining' when turning on - and any delay in coming on.
Ensure the manual gain works
Check the lenses closely. PVS come with sacrifical lenses and so the lenses should be as free of scratches and dirt as possible
Make sure the dioptre and the focus both have a smooth full range of turn
Turn the unit on against a clean sheet of white paper - you want as few marks as possible (small ones are to be expected - it is an organic product) - beware any burns or dull spots
Check battery compartment and connections - clean and tight.
Check whether the autogating works

There's a starter for ten anyway.....

In terms of against a Longbow - it will be - far less glass etc for light to come through - and very different tubes. With the IR's available these days however, the gap has shrunk (we don't need to use these units passively).

Next time.....Figure of Merit (FoM)......
Thanks for taking the time, and so much detail, have no idea what tube was in the one I looked through or where from but it was quite a thing.
 
downside of longbow is if scope gets damaged badly no repair or replacement, many tears but quite robust my current scope received serious trauma but still works, nv unit not really the weak link just the scope.
Like many others now use thermal (ward) but there are times granted not many when watching a fox moving then decide to rest semi curled in partly dead ground at shootable distance ( head and shoulders) it could be anything, regardless of brand of scope. Same scenario with reasonable tubed nv see fox’s noodle and shoot.
For me the ward wins hands down against the bow in nearly every situation rain, mist, and no ir to spook close stuff, friend has thermion and same applies.
All that been said on a good nv night with little damp in air my longbow could be used out to 300 yards and watch fox’s far far further and imo far more interesting and pleasant to use.
Think if laws change and needs must any deer in open to semi open ground would be academic.
Sorry for hi- jack
 
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Ah, Friend has bow with green tint to tube, mine yellow ish, pvs was also green, my eye likes green, find extended use of thermal spotter monocular hurted eye, friend was same until he bought thermal bins and all good.
Keep looking at all those used millsurp pvs14 in the states but no export out of states.🤷‍♂️
Was once told by mr starlight, he who’s name I cannot mention that the colour of tube was no indicator of quality of tube, how true don’t know.
 
My mate has 2 PVS with green screens (unsure which tube) and shoots them with PM 2 (12-50).
I have a Ward 800l on a Delta 5-50.
I've got to say I think the Ward is a match for the PVS in all scenarios, except very last light with no IR. Once it's dark and IR is needed I think the Ward is better.
The green screen on the PVS however is much easier on the eye...but for me the PVS is just too bulky/long and buggers your shooting position, the Ward is probably half the size of the PVS.....as they say "you pays your money...."
Finally, the PVS is now old gear and getting repairs/tubes etc is expensive (not impossible....just expensive!). The Ward is brand new and comes with a warranty.....for me if you can live with the white screen it would be the Ward all day long.
ps....I have no connection/involvement with Ward except as a customer.
Regards, Rob.
 
My mate has 2 PVS with green screens (unsure which tube) and shoots them with PM 2 (12-50).
I have a Ward 800l on a Delta 5-50.
I've got to say I think the Ward is a match for the PVS in all scenarios, except very last light with no IR. Once it's dark and IR is needed I think the Ward is better.
The green screen on the PVS however is much easier on the eye...but for me the PVS is just too bulky/long and buggers your shooting position, the Ward is probably half the size of the PVS.....as they say "you pays your money...."
Finally, the PVS is now old gear and getting repairs/tubes etc is expensive (not impossible....just expensive!). The Ward is brand new and comes with a warranty.....for me if you can live with the white screen it would be the Ward all day long.
ps....I have no connection/involvement with Ward except as a customer.
Regards, Rob.
Cheers
I’ll give Clive a call
p
 
Can only add had a wardy add on 800l digital and for the money it was great, had the improved collar to attach to scope shot plenty with it.
For me big let down was if on the move climbing gates and fences jumping ditches it would no matter what come loose or worse detach from scope, but if in vehicle or sitting out great and due to size did not alter head position.
Shot plenty of stuff with mine including some stuff at silly distances when experimenting with different scopes of truck bonnet, suspect a good pvs14 with cobra adapter and compatible scope would be amazing to use and own. Question is a lot more money, guess like most nv all things lots more dosh for not that much improvement, as always buy best you can afford🤷‍♂️
 
Ah, Friend has bow with green tint to tube, mine yellow ish, pvs was also green, my eye likes green, find extended use of thermal spotter monocular hurted eye, friend was same until he bought thermal bins and all good.
Keep looking at all those used millsurp pvs14 in the states but no export out of states.🤷‍♂️
Was once told by mr starlight, he who’s name I cannot mention that the colour of tube was no indicator of quality of tube, how true don’t know.
Colour of tube can be indicative of both the technology behind (whether a Silicon or Gallium Arsenide substrate) - and also the manner in which the tube is driven. The later ITT tubes (over say Litton) tended to have a slightly more yellow tint to them as it was thought to give better contrast over the darker green-black. So, it's not a quality indicator per se but can be seen as an indicator of higher FoM, newer tubes.
 
The PVS has been around a long time for sure, and it's still being used by armed forces around the world, and they are still churning out thousands of new units, and you can buy them brand new with a 7-year warranty in this country, what's not to like about all that? The fact they are tried and tested and still being made in the same format must say something!
 
My mate has 2 PVS with green screens (unsure which tube) and shoots them with PM 2 (12-50).
I have a Ward 800l on a Delta 5-50.
I've got to say I think the Ward is a match for the PVS in all scenarios, except very last light with no IR. Once it's dark and IR is needed I think the Ward is better.
The green screen on the PVS however is much easier on the eye...but for me the PVS is just too bulky/long and buggers your shooting position, the Ward is probably half the size of the PVS.....as they say "you pays your money...."
Finally, the PVS is now old gear and getting repairs/tubes etc is expensive (not impossible....just expensive!). The Ward is brand new and comes with a warranty.....for me if you can live with the white screen it would be the Ward all day long.
ps....I have no connection/involvement with Ward except as a customer.
Regards, Rob.
Each to their own. But what I can say with some certainty is that a tubed device will operate in far less light - and will deal with high contrast situations far better than any digital NV. It will also deal with atmospheric conditions far better. Shooting position is easily fixed - and warranty - you can buy new fully warrantable commercial PVS14 these days.
 
Each to their own. But what I can say with some certainty is that a tubed device will operate in far less light - and will deal with high contrast situations far better than any digital NV. It will also deal with atmospheric conditions far better. Shooting position is easily fixed - and warranty - you can buy new fully warrantable commercial PVS14 these days.
Yes,forgot to mention with the wardy on nights when damp (not raining) a mist or cloud could be seen through scope travelling in direction of wind weird, longbow same conditions but just looked like very light drizzle, thermal nothing at all🤣
 
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