Reloading 22 hornet cases with ‘ rings ‘

Pretty new on reloading so please be gentle!
So I bought some so called once fired RWS brass for reloading the 22 Hornet.
Noticed some ‘ rings ‘ on the cases ( after FLS ) and read that these rings can be a sign/warning for possible case head separation.
Also read that these rings are shiny but these are dull.
These RWS cases are the only cases who has these rings.
What do you guys make of these rings?
 

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shouldn't be case head separation after only one firing, how are you lubing the cases before you resize them? i have no knowledge of this calibre, but plenty on dirty rings :rofl: :rofl:
 
I lube them on a mat, is it possible that they have fired more then once and that the seller lied about this?
I lube my own Hornady and Sellier Bellot cases in the exact same way and these do not have these rings after FLS.
The RWS brass is much thicker and heavier compared to Hornady and Sellier Bellot.
 
You have the best cases available for the 22 Hornet and particularly so if shooting a vintage (1970/80's) Anschutz as they like the rim thickness that determines head space. But to your concern!

Don't worry about the ring markings or if you've fully resized the brass. It's far more important to ensure the unnecessarily long necks (hence the so-called K22 Hornet widcat) are suitably sized and that you CRIMP 35/40grn bullets as you'll never realise meaningful neck tension with a sizing die unless the bullet is seated way too deep.

The following 10-shot group fired this year using RWS cases that I've been reloading since the late 1980's:
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K
 
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If you want to be sure then section one straight down the middle. Any thinning of the case wall will be apparent.

Like you said, you don’t know the history and it’s your fingers / eyes or ears on the line. So for the sake of one case…. They’re most likely fine but at least you’ll know.
 
You have the best cases available for the 22 Hornet and particularly so if shooting a vintage (1970/80's) Anschutz as they like the rim thickness that determines head space. But to your concern!

Don't worry about the ring markings or if you've fully resized the brass. It's far more important to ensure the unnecessarily long necks (hence the so-called K22 Hornet widcat) are suitably sized and that you CRIMP 35/40grn bullets as you'll never realise meaningful neck tension with a sizing die unless the bullet is seated way too deep.

The following 10-shot group fired this year using RWS cases that I've been reloading since the late 1980's:
View attachment 417783
K
I also crimp and get excellent groupings with it, my rifle is a Cz 527
 
If you want to be sure then section one straight down the middle. Any thinning of the case wall will be apparent.

Like you said, you don’t know the history and it’s your fingers / eyes or ears on the line. So for the sake of one case…. They’re most likely fine but at least you’ll know.
Some solid advice, thanks, will check it tomorrow👍
 
Hmmm. Buying “once-fired” cases is a lottery unless you know and trust the seller.
Soooo as a relatively inexperienced reloader and to to put your mind at rest:-
bend a paperclip or some such at 90 degrees with one end short enough to fit in the case neck (see foto);
sharpen that short end;
push the clip inside - all the way down to the case head and gently move it up and down with the point against the inner case wall;
rotate case a quarter turn or so and repeat 3-4 times.
Any incipient case separation should be detected by resistance being felt at the point of the clip. If any fail this simple test bin them!
Many years ago I bought several hundred once-fired cases for my new 6.5x55SE - before I had even heard of incipient case separation - boy did Inlearn the hard way! Ever since each and every case regardless of chambering gets treated to this simple but very effective check - I use part of the thin metal stiffener from a windscreen wiper, bent and sharpened as required. You might be surprised how many of your new-to-you little darlings fail….
🦊🦊
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I doubt you have any issues with your brass. If you want to be very careful use the wire tool above in Foxy's post.
I've had 3 case separations in 30-06s and a .35 Whelen. Nothing to be concerned about. A bit of gas through the magazine. Shake out the top section of case and keep shooting.
 
So I have opened two ( so called once fired ) 22 Hornet RWS cases with rings on the outside and they both seem fine on the inside, see the picture.
If these outside rings are no signs of case head separation, what are they then?
I only have this outside rings with these so called once fired RWS cases and they are always on the exact same spot on the cases.
Maybe a mark of the FLS?
 

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Pretty new on reloading so please be gentle!
So I bought some so called once fired RWS brass for reloading the 22 Hornet.
Noticed some ‘ rings ‘ on the cases ( after FLS ) and read that these rings can be a sign/warning for possible case head separation.
Also read that these rings are shiny but these are dull.
These RWS cases are the only cases who has these rings.
What do you guys make of these rings?
Why would you FLS .22 Hornet anyhow ? It headspaces on the rim , the only reason its sort of bottle neck shape is to reduce the case enough to hold a .223-224 bullet !
As a regular Hornet shooter over many years and many thousands of rounds i assure you 2-3 tho' of grip on the case to hold the bullet is required
Be intrested of getting hold of one that shows what you call head separation and one new one
Some powders are liable to be too hot for a case full but with lilgun - you van literally fill the case to capacity and crunch the powder down when pushing the bullet into the case
 
The rings on your cases are likely due to the sizing die. I have cases and rifles/dies where i also get some rings on the outside of my brass.
As Bowland Blades note above, you can get by just using a mandrel die (Lee) for a hornet and avoiding overworking the thin brass necks.
The thin brass in the case neck of a hornet can benefit from a light crimp using a Lee crimping die if using a mandrel type die. That RWS brass does look to be solid and supports the comments often made about its' durability and price.
 
The rings on your cases are likely due to the sizing die. I have cases and rifles/dies where i also get some rings on the outside of my brass.
As Bowland Blades note above, you can get by just using a mandrel die (Lee) for a hornet and avoiding overworking the thin brass necks.
The thin brass in the case neck of a hornet can benefit from a light crimp using a Lee crimping die if using a mandrel type die. That RWS brass does look to be solid and supports the comments often made about its' durability and price.
I thought you could only necksize the 22 Hornet after it has been fired in your own rifle because then it is fireformed to your rifle.
This is once fired brass in someone else his rifle so I do have to FLS first before I can start neck sizing aterwards, is that correct?
I have neck sized 22 Hornet before with a FLS die backed down, this worked very well on the brass I reused from my own factory ammo.
Is there still a reason then to buy the Lee collet die if you can neck size with a FLS this way?
 
So I have opened two ( so called once fired ) 22 Hornet RWS cases with rings on the outside and they both seem fine on the inside, see the picture.
If these outside rings are no signs of case head separation, what are they then?
I only have this outside rings with these so called once fired RWS cases and they are always on the exact same spot on the cases.
Maybe a mark of the FLS?

Looks good, the rings must just be a quirk of the brass and your sizing die. Agree with others, now you have F/L sized you should be able to get away with neck sizing. A Lee collet is excellent for this.

A tip on once fired cases. If you have a genuine once fired case, when you deprime it you should see some clean brass showing between the petal marks in the primer pocket of the case. If it’s solid black or obvious scrape marks from cleaning the primer pockets then it’s not once fired. The only caveat to that is if someone’s been thorough with SSM or ultrasonic cleaning.
 
FT3,
If brass fired in another rifle fits in your rifles chamber, without a FLS yes you can prime it, neck size, load and shoot. If it doesn't chamber easily then you will need to FLS.

There are lots of "special processes and tricks" touted in the hornet loading space. It helps to understand the why behind them and it they apply to your specific process and gear. The light crimping is to over come any inconsistencies that may come from the thin brass neck, well used cases and neck sizing with a lee mandrel die. You may not gain any benefit from crimping with a regular FLS and better RWS brass.
 
FT3,
If brass fired in another rifle fits in your rifles chamber, without a FLS yes you can prime it, neck size, load and shoot. If it doesn't chamber easily then you will need to FLS.

There are lots of "special processes and tricks" touted in the hornet loading space. It helps to understand the why behind them and it they apply to your specific process and gear. The light crimping is to over come any inconsistencies that may come from the thin brass neck, well used cases and neck sizing with a lee mandrel die. You may not gain any benefit from crimping with a regular FLS and better RWS brass.
That is some great info, thank you, things I did not know. I did have accuracy advantages with crimping afters NS or FLS my own brass from Hornady and S and B. Prepared the first test loads ( crimped ) with the RWS once fired brass for test shooting this week.
 
my .17hornet which obviously is using .22hornet cases necked down to .17 also have the ring around the cases as shown, so far no issues. I tried just neck sizing but found the bolt quite frequently hard to close, so now FL size them.
Possibly these little cases do not spring back reliably to size after firing like bigger ones. I anneal them after two or three firings.
 
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