Danny Fireblade
Well-Known Member
A few people have expressed an interest in how I made my sticks, so here is a step by step guide. I will explain what tools I use; however, this doesn’t mean there are no other or better tools to use, this is just how I have done it.
I have found oak to be best for strength and weight. I get a local timber merchant to cut 4 x 6 foot lengths which are 19mm square and I also get a plank which is 19mm thick. The lengths are for the legs and the plank is what I use for the rests.
Next I trace the shape of front and rear rests onto the plank and use either a jigsaw or scroll saw to cut them out. I am not too fussed if there are not perfect as have an oscillating spindle sander, thin belt sander and twin sander/linisher which allows me to make the fine adjustments where needed.
Once the rests are pretty much the shape I need I set the guide fence on the table saw, set the correct height for the blade and run the rest once over the blade, which cuts a channel down the centre running lengthways. This channel is what the eye bolt will slide into.
Tip. Use offcuts of the same thickness to ensure cuts will be central and the correct depth.
That is where I leave the rests for now and I next start on the legs.
Each leg needs the centre marked on the end, then a hole is drilled lengthways into the end, to a depth a few mm’s deeper than the length of the eye bolt, except for the protruding part. I get my eye bolts and pins from the following website:
https://www.gsproducts.co.uk
M5 Stainless Steel Threaded Eye
5mm x 21mm Stainless Steel Clevis Pin with R Clip
The hole for the eye bolt should be big enough to allow the bolt to screw in, but don’t worry if it is a little bigger as I secure all bolts with epoxy on final assembly. I have found that a single pass on the table saw is the right size for the width of the eye part of the bolt to fit perfectly. I do not know what width your saw blade is so please check beforehand on scrap wood.
Once all four legs have eye bolts in them its time offer them up to the rests and mark out where to drill the holes for the pins. This is nerve wracking as you only really get one chance at it but the old saying of measure twice and cut once is very pertinent here. I like to leave the legs in the open position when marking where to drill pin holes and if my measurements are correct then they should shut together pretty well.
Below pics show both ends of pins.
Tip. If the eye bolt needs to go deeper into the channel then use a grinding wheel to remove some material off the bolt.
Once holes are drilled check to see pins go through ok and legs shut fine. If not, simple adjustments can be made if necessary, using thin belt sander or chisels, or any other tool that will do what’s needed. Then open the rear rest legs and adjust the length of the legs to roughly the correct height for you. Final adjustments will be made at a later stage.
Tip. Make them a little longer as its easier to remove wood than add.
Then the front rest legs need to be shortened. With the front rest about level with the rear rest when the sticks are closed, mark where the front legs will be cut so they are approx 3-5 inches from the floor and end of rear legs. Once you are happy with the length, the legs with the front rest on will also need to be run once over the table saw for a channel out of the bottom. Ensure the open width is right for your rifle.
See below pic for where front legs meet rear legs.
Tip. Use offcut of legs to ensure depth of cut is correct and you can also angle the front leg bottom cut so once the pivot is in the legs sit square to the other leg in the open position.
Drill a hole though the bottom of front legs for the pin and insert eye bolt and pin. Place both sticks together again and mark where you need to drill the rear rest legs for the eye bolt to be placed in. Don’t worry about the bolt being too long for the 19mm width of legs, as once hole is drilled and pin is in it can be marked then cut to size using an angle grinder and cutting disk.
Now you should have a set of sticks, which in theory are just about done, but need a fair bit more work to get them where they need to be. If the sticks open and close ok, and are roughly the correct height, its now time to use epoxy to set each pin in place. Remember to mark each pin and set the correct way around as once the epoxy is set it isn’t coming out again.
When the eye bolts have been glued in place its time to go back to the rests. I run each rest over a router table to chamfer the edges off before further rounding them using the oscillating spindle sander. I now use off cuts to fill in the edges of the channels in rests and end of front legs, again using epoxy to glue the offcuts in place, ensuring the offcuts don’t foul the eye bolts. This strengthens the wood where the channel has been cut and I use the sanders to remove excess wood or glue once hardened. You can see where I have filled the channel in the below pic.
When both front and rear rests are fully routered, sanded and strengthened to a stage where I am happy with how they look I put on a few coats of Danish oil. Once this is dry I cut some thin leather, mark out where I want it to be on the rests and using contact spray adhesive I glue this in place.
Tip. If using spray glue for leather ensure surrounding area is well masked off as its messy stuff.
I again rough fit the legs, using a Dremel and small grinding wheel I cut a groove between the pins where the securing holes are and cut the R clips that come with the pins so this straight part of the pin can be tapped into place to keep the pins in place. This is also done for the bottom leg pin when the time is right.
Pics below show the groove and pins.
Now its back to the legs. Leaving between 3-10 inches at each end, depending on which end will depend on how much I leave square, I use my router table and remove the sharp edge of the square down the length so its more octagonal than square. You don’t have to remove too much from each edge as you will reduce the strength of the legs and once you have a rifle on them there will be movement, so just a few mm’s will be fine.
Put the sticks back together, open them out and now is the time to make final adjustments to the rear legs for your height. Once completely happy with the height, ensuring you use a rifle on the sticks to fine tune, shut the sticks and hold them how you would carry the in the field.
Once sticks are central so equally balanced, mark where hand is then using the sander further remove a little more wood off the outside edge so there is a distinct step down and make the hand hold rounder. By removing this little bit more material it not only allows you to slide your hands down the sticks to feel where the correct handhold for carrying them is without looking at them, it also reduces the thickness to make carrying easier and less stressful, which is handy if you don’t have hands like Andre the giant.
Now you can use Danish oil on the legs, and I also like to put some Danish oil over the grooves that I have cut for the pin securing pins. Now I use some thin green cord and drill a small hole between front rest legs and to rear rest leg. Cord is passed through holes, knotted at various parts and at each end. This cord prevents over extending the legs when opening them which reduces stress on each eye bolt/pin joint. It isn’t totally necessary, but I like to have it there as a backup. I also use some thick leather between where the sticks shut and the pins as you can see how the pins will mark the wood otherwise. This leather is just epoxied on. Total weight for this set was 1605 grams.
That’s it, sticks complete. Sit back, open beer and congratulate yourself on how amazing you are.
I have found oak to be best for strength and weight. I get a local timber merchant to cut 4 x 6 foot lengths which are 19mm square and I also get a plank which is 19mm thick. The lengths are for the legs and the plank is what I use for the rests.
Next I trace the shape of front and rear rests onto the plank and use either a jigsaw or scroll saw to cut them out. I am not too fussed if there are not perfect as have an oscillating spindle sander, thin belt sander and twin sander/linisher which allows me to make the fine adjustments where needed.
Once the rests are pretty much the shape I need I set the guide fence on the table saw, set the correct height for the blade and run the rest once over the blade, which cuts a channel down the centre running lengthways. This channel is what the eye bolt will slide into.
Tip. Use offcuts of the same thickness to ensure cuts will be central and the correct depth.
That is where I leave the rests for now and I next start on the legs.
Each leg needs the centre marked on the end, then a hole is drilled lengthways into the end, to a depth a few mm’s deeper than the length of the eye bolt, except for the protruding part. I get my eye bolts and pins from the following website:
https://www.gsproducts.co.uk
M5 Stainless Steel Threaded Eye
5mm x 21mm Stainless Steel Clevis Pin with R Clip
The hole for the eye bolt should be big enough to allow the bolt to screw in, but don’t worry if it is a little bigger as I secure all bolts with epoxy on final assembly. I have found that a single pass on the table saw is the right size for the width of the eye part of the bolt to fit perfectly. I do not know what width your saw blade is so please check beforehand on scrap wood.
Once all four legs have eye bolts in them its time offer them up to the rests and mark out where to drill the holes for the pins. This is nerve wracking as you only really get one chance at it but the old saying of measure twice and cut once is very pertinent here. I like to leave the legs in the open position when marking where to drill pin holes and if my measurements are correct then they should shut together pretty well.
Below pics show both ends of pins.
Tip. If the eye bolt needs to go deeper into the channel then use a grinding wheel to remove some material off the bolt.
Once holes are drilled check to see pins go through ok and legs shut fine. If not, simple adjustments can be made if necessary, using thin belt sander or chisels, or any other tool that will do what’s needed. Then open the rear rest legs and adjust the length of the legs to roughly the correct height for you. Final adjustments will be made at a later stage.
Tip. Make them a little longer as its easier to remove wood than add.
Then the front rest legs need to be shortened. With the front rest about level with the rear rest when the sticks are closed, mark where the front legs will be cut so they are approx 3-5 inches from the floor and end of rear legs. Once you are happy with the length, the legs with the front rest on will also need to be run once over the table saw for a channel out of the bottom. Ensure the open width is right for your rifle.
See below pic for where front legs meet rear legs.
Tip. Use offcut of legs to ensure depth of cut is correct and you can also angle the front leg bottom cut so once the pivot is in the legs sit square to the other leg in the open position.
Drill a hole though the bottom of front legs for the pin and insert eye bolt and pin. Place both sticks together again and mark where you need to drill the rear rest legs for the eye bolt to be placed in. Don’t worry about the bolt being too long for the 19mm width of legs, as once hole is drilled and pin is in it can be marked then cut to size using an angle grinder and cutting disk.
Now you should have a set of sticks, which in theory are just about done, but need a fair bit more work to get them where they need to be. If the sticks open and close ok, and are roughly the correct height, its now time to use epoxy to set each pin in place. Remember to mark each pin and set the correct way around as once the epoxy is set it isn’t coming out again.
When the eye bolts have been glued in place its time to go back to the rests. I run each rest over a router table to chamfer the edges off before further rounding them using the oscillating spindle sander. I now use off cuts to fill in the edges of the channels in rests and end of front legs, again using epoxy to glue the offcuts in place, ensuring the offcuts don’t foul the eye bolts. This strengthens the wood where the channel has been cut and I use the sanders to remove excess wood or glue once hardened. You can see where I have filled the channel in the below pic.
When both front and rear rests are fully routered, sanded and strengthened to a stage where I am happy with how they look I put on a few coats of Danish oil. Once this is dry I cut some thin leather, mark out where I want it to be on the rests and using contact spray adhesive I glue this in place.
Tip. If using spray glue for leather ensure surrounding area is well masked off as its messy stuff.
I again rough fit the legs, using a Dremel and small grinding wheel I cut a groove between the pins where the securing holes are and cut the R clips that come with the pins so this straight part of the pin can be tapped into place to keep the pins in place. This is also done for the bottom leg pin when the time is right.
Pics below show the groove and pins.
Now its back to the legs. Leaving between 3-10 inches at each end, depending on which end will depend on how much I leave square, I use my router table and remove the sharp edge of the square down the length so its more octagonal than square. You don’t have to remove too much from each edge as you will reduce the strength of the legs and once you have a rifle on them there will be movement, so just a few mm’s will be fine.
Put the sticks back together, open them out and now is the time to make final adjustments to the rear legs for your height. Once completely happy with the height, ensuring you use a rifle on the sticks to fine tune, shut the sticks and hold them how you would carry the in the field.
Once sticks are central so equally balanced, mark where hand is then using the sander further remove a little more wood off the outside edge so there is a distinct step down and make the hand hold rounder. By removing this little bit more material it not only allows you to slide your hands down the sticks to feel where the correct handhold for carrying them is without looking at them, it also reduces the thickness to make carrying easier and less stressful, which is handy if you don’t have hands like Andre the giant.
Now you can use Danish oil on the legs, and I also like to put some Danish oil over the grooves that I have cut for the pin securing pins. Now I use some thin green cord and drill a small hole between front rest legs and to rear rest leg. Cord is passed through holes, knotted at various parts and at each end. This cord prevents over extending the legs when opening them which reduces stress on each eye bolt/pin joint. It isn’t totally necessary, but I like to have it there as a backup. I also use some thick leather between where the sticks shut and the pins as you can see how the pins will mark the wood otherwise. This leather is just epoxied on. Total weight for this set was 1605 grams.
That’s it, sticks complete. Sit back, open beer and congratulate yourself on how amazing you are.
probably leaning up a tree in the wood..... Hey Ho .....job for this weekend.
