Short petrol chainsaw for brush work, advice required.

[The Singing Stalker]

I currently use a 20in Parker brand (7.5 kilos) for tree cutting and whilst it is no Stihl, it has done what I need it to do, to keep my woodburner going. Managed a 22” beech tree last year. Basically, run it till it breaks, then sling it. I usually get 3 years out of them before I do something stupid like, get the mix wrong. It would cost me more to get it serviced than to buy a new one, and it is usually my fault.

Anyhow,
I was thinking that a small lightweight finest chinisuim chainsaw for cleaning small branches, tidying up, basically anything up to 2 inches would be a good idea. I do find my 20in is just a bit unwieldy and heavy.
I am not a pro and cut about 6 cubic meters each year.
It needs to be petrol, if I’m out in the woods my battery chainsaw doesn’t last long enough, even with spare batteries.

Both of the items below tend to be about 4 to 4.5 kilos.

10in tend to be top handled. I have never used one, but they do have a terrible reputation for causing injuries.
12in tend to be chainsaw shaped and to my mind, safer to grip than a top handled one.

So after experienced people’s opinion on which to get.
Top handle or chainsaw shape.
Is 25cc up to the job, or do I need a 35cc?

Thoughts?

 

[monarman]

Still Ms 170 will do nicely...

 

[AGR]

Have you tried a strimmer with chainsaw attachment? Will cut 2 inches easily, and no bending!

 

[Will the chippy]

As above. A Stihl ms171 or a husky 120 both about 150 quid. With a 12 or 14 inch bar.

 

[.25-06]

The Ms 171 seems a good choice.
A top handled saw is only for ariel tree work. Strimmers are not designed for chainsaw attachment.
A curved silky saw makes a good choice for manual effort.

 

[Bonzo dog]

I think what is being referred to is a clearing saw attachment for a brush cutter. Circular disc with chainsaw "style" teeth. I have used one extensively for thinning forestry plantations. Brilliant bit of kit saves a lot of bending with a saw. Will cut 2" dia comfortably but will cut bigger.
And yes a top handled saw should only be used for ariel work (by professionals) due to increased chance of kick back.

 

[Outback]

Husqvarna 135 is a good cheap saw .

 

[wytonpjs]

I run a pair of MS200Ts, a MS211 and a MSA 70C-B (all with 12” bars) which with 2 AK30S batteries does virtually all of my saw work now. I have been staggered by just how long those batteries last!

 

[22xm1]

Echo 2511, rear handle in your case, about 2.5-3 kg, and has a lot of guts for a 25cc saw.

or any of the makita 40v rear handle saws

 

[TringSaint]

I currently use a 20in Parker brand (7.5 kilos) for tree cutting and whilst it is no Stihl, it has done what I need it to do, to keep my woodburner going. Managed a 22” beech tree last year. Basically, run it till it breaks, then sling it. I usually get 3 years out of them before I do something stupid like, get the mix wrong. It would cost me more to get it serviced than to buy a new one, and it is usually my fault.

Anyhow,
I was thinking that a small lightweight finest chinisuim chainsaw for cleaning small branches, tidying up, basically anything up to 2 inches would be a good idea. I do find my 20in is just a bit unwieldy and heavy.
I am not a pro and cut about 6 cubic meters each year.
It needs to be petrol, if I’m out in the woods my battery chainsaw doesn’t last long enough, even with spare batteries.

Both of the items below tend to be about 4 to 4.5 kilos.

10in tend to be top handled. I have never used one, but they do have a terrible reputation for causing injuries.
12in tend to be chainsaw shaped and to my mind, safer to grip than a top handled one.

So after experienced people’s opinion on which to get.
Top handle or chainsaw shape.
Is 25cc up to the job, or do I need a 35cc?

Thoughts?

I have a husky 120 with a 14” bar and it’s a great little tool. Plenty for small to medium sized stuff. And cheap!

 

[Cootmeurer]

Another vote for the little Stihls, M160/M170. Pretty much bulletproof

 

[countrryboy]

Do u have any decent battery power tools?
I bought a Milwaukkee saw and paid extra for the fancy forge? batteries.
I've been surprised wot it does on a charge.
If u have any decent battery powered stuff I'd be tempted to buy a saw to suit.
Nothing to break down.

If u need petrol.
As others have said the small stihls are about as good a value for money u will get.
Of u got a 170 or 180 or even step up to a 200 or 230.
I would almost bet a 200 with a sharp 12" chain will cut faster than ur 20" cheapo saw.
If the largest timber u cut is 20" a 12" bar is all u need with the correct techniques.
It's very very rare I put a larger bar on than 20" and that's felling O/S trees for harvesters so normally 3-4ft butt's.

Personally I'd avoid Husky like the plague, I never thought the cheaper saws had had a very good reputation. But even now the pro saws are garbage.

Top handled saws are horrible to use on the deck.
Far better with a proper rear handled saw, better balanced and u will produce more.

 

[eldon]

I've got a ms181 ( as well as a Parker 20" and a ms261) but the FiL bought a toy saw as I called it, a 10" suggesting it would out last him, sadly it did. It's no Stihl but it's a cracking lightweight saw for thin branches and clearing work.

Currently away from home so can't post a pic but I'll see if I can find a similar product.

 

[eldon]

Here you go 26cc 10" Petrol Top Handle Topping Chainsaw + 2 x Chains + Oils + More | ParkerBrand

And all for under £100.

 

[mammoth200]

Have you tried a strimmer with chainsaw attachment? Will cut 2 inches easily, and no bending!

Would second this, actually. I bought the Titan branded kit from Screwfix about 5 years ago and that thing has been a pretty reliable bit of kit. Strims, brush cuts, hedge trims, and chainsaws, and keeps me well away from it too.

 

[udderlyoffroad]

Second the do you *really* need petrol comment for clearing brash.

If you're already bought into a particular brand of cordless tools, get their 12 or 14" chainsaw, not top handled, and give it a go. I've got the Makita twin 18V job. Slightly more spendy, than £150, but it's also not a throw-away tool. Yes, working in the woods all day felling big trees isn't its forte, but I highly doubt it limbing and brash clearing will be a 25cc finest chiesium's forte either. Frankly an electric model will be a lot safer due to the large amount of 'sub optimal body positioning' limbing and brashing entails. If you're not into servicing things - not looking after the chain brake on a chinesium saw, that you really want to work, sounds like a bad idea to me.

 

[rarms]

I would also say a battery powered one to match any existing power tools you have would be a good choice. I've got the little DeWalt one, and a couple of 5ah batteries and it is surprising what it will do

 

[The Singing Stalker]

So to answer some points.
I already have an electric battery chainsaw. It is not suitable for my needs as I am out in the woods have no means of charging and at £62 a battery? Back to petrol. It is a great bit of kit, but not up to the time needed.
I also have a chainsaw on a pole, ok for high stuff, again not what I want.

But really, this is about reducing the weight of the chainsaw for a lot of the smaller stuff, leave the 20” for the bigger stuff. I’m not 20 years old any more.
A lot of the Chinisuim stuff is actually pretty good. No, it isn’t as good as a high end chainsaw, but then, I’m not paying £829 for it. I paid £110 for my last one and it has worked perfectly for the last 3 years. Even the brakes. I may not service something, but it is checked that it all works properly, and if a safety part decides not to work, then it will be binned or returned under warranty. In fact, I only had to return one because of brake issues and it was within warranty. They mostly come with a two or three year warranty, at which point, if it starts not being right, then sling it. It is cheaper to buy a new one than service it. My local place will charge £70 just to look at it. Add a few bits and I can buy a brand new one with a warranty.

So looking at reviews,
Husky 14 inch, Stihl 12 inch entry level ones about £160 or a Scheppach cos it is £102. And comes with a 2 year warranty, able to extend to 4 years.

 

[Will the chippy]

I know fencing lads who buy the smallest Stihl and run it hard till it dies. Some will go on far longer than it should. 3-5 years of daily use rattling around the tractor or knocker.